Some Côte d’Or & Mâconnais 2014 whites

Update 30.5.2016(29.5.2016)billn

Tasted in Beaune at the cuverie of Champy for the DIVA distributor tasting of 2014s – easily the best tasting, with the worst glasses! 23 and 24 March 2016, plus the ‘Tontons Trinqueurs’ tasting at the cuverie of Chantal Lescure in Nuits St.Georges, also on the 23rd of March.

73 wines, but as noted, we had something in the hand to taste with that were only modestly better than ISO glasses – so that’s a shame!


DSC09837Poured by Jean-Marc Blain

2014 Puligny-Montrachet
A subtle, fine and wide nose – inviting. A certain density here, a weight of flavour. It follows other 1ers rather well. Long finishing. A tasty, very good wine.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Boudriotte
Here’s a nice extra dimension of aroma, more depth too. Wider, more saline, nice energy and good texture. A lovely wine… and great finishing too, though it’s an oaky note that brings the length.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
A modest but very pretty nose, quite floral. Chalky, mineral wine, with fine points of fresh, precise flavour along the mineral spine. Excellent if slightly subdued.

2014 Bâtard-Montrachet
From near criots with lots of small stones…
More heavily perfumed, finely floral too. A wide and fine mineral, not fat style – of course there’s more texture and a little more concentration, but this is really my style of Batard. Excellent…

Henri Boillot

Poured by Guillaume Boillot…

2014 Meursault
From 4 parcels, mainly the higher ones.
A hint of oak smoke. In the mouth this is wide, lovely wine with a hint of salinity – excellent villages! Great finish too.

2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Clos des Mouchères
All whites are elevaged in 330 litre barrels now, trying to keep the maximum of freshness.
Here the oak is more absorbed, relatively pretty behind with a hint of flowers. Less overt sweetness than the Meursault but wider, more chalky minerality more depth and intensity. Excellent… Not a big finish, but a long finish. Fine!

Vincent Bouzereau

DSC097952014 Aligote
Bright top notes here. Mouth-filling. Pretty fruit. Engaging, indeed delicious aligote.

2014 Puligny-Montrachet
Bright, forward pineapple. Wide, tasty wine with the impression of a little tannin. Power, energy and again, I would say delicious!

2014 Meursault
A deeper, certainly more composed nose, nice, I think I’d guess Meursault blind – which is a compliment. Wide, fresh, lots of flavour complexity – this is lovely – very fine villages!

2014 Meursault Narvaux
Fresh, wide, pretty cliché Meursault nose – yum. More dimension of flavour here and a really good energy. Great finish too – bravo!

2014 Meursault 1er Poruzots
A big, open nose, fresh and pretty. Certainly it begs you to take a sip. Lovely fresh, clean, pure entry, a little growing mid-palate texture – almost tannin. Faintly salted. Excellent.

2014 Corton Clos des Fiètres
An errant red! Well, there are not many of these – I think just Bouzereaus and Picard have vines here.
A silky, composed freshness. Muscular, as I suppose it should be, nice overall complexity and energy if not the most effusive. But tasty wine.

Francois Carillon

DSC09779Poured by François Carillon.

2014 Aligote
14 months elevage, one year in barrel and 2 months in tank, bottled at Christmas.
Pretty, perfumed nose – nice. Nice salinity. Intense, good sweet fruit. A mineral and super tasty aligote – yum!

2014 Bourgogne Chadonnay
A nice depth of chardonnay fruit on the nose, fresh and pretty. Round, layered, voluptuous wine. Yum! Also a hint of salinity in the finish too.

2014 Puligny-Montrachet
A fine freshness. In the mouth, there’s very lovely mouth-watering flavour. Lovely extension of flavour into the finish too. Fresh, gorgeous wine!

2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Gains
The premier crus are not yet bottled, they are still on fine lees in tank, which follows 12 months in barrel.
A fine and fresh nose, lovely yellow citrus too. Very silky, wide, with understated energy, but still an ever-changing flavour – very good complexity – oh, and very tasty too!

2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Combettes
A quite understated nose. Fresher, more energy, almost as silky, here is a lovely depth of flavour. This is very yum!

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er les Macherelles
Fresh and airy nose. Mineral, and faintly saline too. With fine texture, beautiful on the palate with a lovely energy – really my favourite today – very lovely wine!
Jacques Carillon

DSC09783Poured by Jacques Carillon. The Village wine is already bottled, the premiers and red still in tank.

2014 Puligny-Montrachet
A nice fresh nose – very attractive. Quite a stony wine but with pretty faintly salted citrus fruit. Yum! Fine length too.

2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Canet
Almost a vibration to this super nose! Obviously mineral, but with fine, mouth-watering, melting flavours. Excellent. One of the best finishes too.
2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Perrieres
If anything, even more mineral nose – which also vibrates. A little larger in the mouth, lots and lots of complexity. Really lots to find here. I still have a slight preference for the last wine, but bravo – also a great finish.
Jean Marie Challand


2014 Viré-Clessé l’Epinet (Mag)
A nice clean, fresh and forward nose. Fine, fresh with almost a quince aromatic. Lots of action here, a nice texture, almost of tannin, width and energy. Really great fruit in the mid-palate too – a winner!
2014 Viré-Clessé Perrières
A deep, vibrant, ripe core of fruit, but with fine-balanced freshness. Big in the mouth, super, mouth-watering flavour that mixes acidity, ripe fruit, chalky references and, frankly, deliciousness – bravo!

2014 Mâcon-Davaye
Bright, overt, ripe fruit. Mouth-filling, great concentration. Oops – im liking this more than the last wine! (Batard!) super. A lovely finish to, almost with a hint of licorice. Yum!

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras
12 months in barrel then 2 in tank.
A fresher though more discreet nose, slightly chalky. This is lovely – playing with my palate, adding layers of flavour, excellent width in the finish too – bravo!!!

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Bouthières
A more clay soil here.
Here is a nice, if modest nose, full, round, lots of material here, but also enough energy and vivacity to carry it. Also super wine. With a really great finish.

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Buchot
18 months of elevage, 12 in 600l barres then 6 months in tank to ‘rafiné’ – here a more limestone soil.
A discreet but rather fine nose – more top notes than bass. Wide, lovely, ever-changing flavour on the palate, just a lovely mix of salted citrus – more lime than lemon. Excellent and a fine finish too.

DSC09788All in bottle – a couple of months for the villages and one month for the 1ers.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Blanchots Dessous (villages)
Pretty, high-tones, a little more towards vanilla than flowers, but nice. Wide, good energy and flavour – rolling nicely over the tongue. A little stony in the finish. Tasty wine with good length.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St Jean
A top to bottom nose – if less wide than the Blanchots. Fresher, more direct. Nice growing intensity though always cushioned. Really lovely texture and flavour with a faint salted edge. Tasty again!

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Blanchots Dessous
A wide nose, more limited depth – occasional higher-toned notes. Mmm – much more mineral with a fine mid-palate width of flavour. Salted, mineral, enveloping. A contemplative style which I’m liking very much.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot Le Grand Clos
A tight mose, faintly savoury here but nothing to invite. Nice energy and complexity, lovely intensity of flavour in the mid-palate and an excellent finish – very, very good – in parts today.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
A wide freshness of aroma, hinting at but bever quite delivering some vanilla. Larger scaled in the mouth and with great texture too. Despite good energy, still a slightly contemplative style. Very lovely all the same.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Dents du Chiens
A certain deeper ripeness of fruit on the nose. Mineral wine, beautifully, slightly padded texture. Layers of flavour here. Again contemplative in style – but I’m finding this very hard to resist. Super!

2014 Bâtard-Montrachet
A modest nose, discreet flashes of depth, but really very little to see, aromatically, today. A nicely mineral wine. Rolling over the tongue beautifully. But today I really don’t find an extra Grand Cru distinction vs the previous wines, even in the finish.

Dominique Cornin

Poured by Dominique…

2014 Mâcon Chaintree
Fine, inviting fresh faint citrus nose – super. A certain richness but the nice texture is cut but good acidity. Plenty of material and lots of interest – yum!

2014 Mâcon Chaintree Les Serreudieres
A similar nose, less wide and a little more direct. Move vivacity, energy, a certain minerality too. Excellent – a fine finish too.

2014 Mâcon Fuissé Les Bruyeres
A young vine parcel, straddling the Beaujolais border with some granite.
A bright nose, riper fruit – quite overt. The texture and acidity are well-balanced, there’s a textural richness. Much riper fruit in the finish – a powerful finish.

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé
The only PF cuvee that has 10 months tank elevage without barrels.
A freshness of aroma, I like this more, there’s a tighter core of ripe fruit here. Lovely – bright, bubbling fresh complexity – really fine flavours. Super yum – really. The last notes with a saline accent.

2014 Pouilly-Fuisse Clos Reyssie
Here with 1 year of barrel elevage then in tank for 8 months on fine lees – total 20 months elevage.
A very attractive, fine, fresh intensity. Wide, mouth-filling, today with a modest oak augmentation, really fine and precise flavours, a little more contemplative than the last wine, today… Really super.

2014 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Plessys
Demi-muids used here and I really don’t see any oak flavour.
A nose that combines freshness and a faint, yellow fruited middle. No obvious oak this time, wide, fine concentration of flavour – great finish.

Pouilly-Fuisse Les Chevrières
A relatively discreet nose, but fine freshness with a hint more ripe fruit impression. If the nose isn’t my favourite of these PFs, the palate is simply gorgeous – wide, modestly, bubbling with complexity – a hint of minerality and a great finishing sweetness of flavour. Bravo!
2014 Chassagne-Montrachet
From 6 different parcels.
Bright, fresh some aromatic power here, backed with some oak toast – attractive. Very silky, fine concentration – a mineral wine where only the mouth-watering part divulges its pretty, mouth-watering flavours. Bravo!
2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Boudriotte
A more discreet nose, without obvious oak but plenty of attractive complexity. Lovely wide, concentrated wine – very fine texture and layers of flavour – I’m loving the style here; compose, confident and very giving. Another very mineral but not austere production. Great finish – really!

2014 Bâtard-Montrachet
From 4 small parcels all in Chassagne.
A floral quality and really lovely depth – yet essentially discreet in the glass. Less fine texture, seemingly due to some tannin texture, wide and alive in the mid-palate, really fine, and pure the mouth-watering flavour here. Excellent. A great finish too!

Armand Heitz

DSC09840Poured by Armand. It’s clear that when I visited Armand last year, his wines were very early in their elevage, as today, by comparison, they were absolutely singing.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Maltroie
Pretty, fresh, a slight mineral, saline complexity – yes I want to taste it! Very silky, a little cushioning to the texture. Really super width of flavour. With a lovely burst of finishing flavour too. When last tasted, this was an early sample – this shows much more class, post-elevage. Yum!

2014 Meursault 1er Perrieres
Fine, almost pinched, narrow but a bright line of pure aroma – super. Wide, complex, lots of bubbling complexity and mouth-watering gorgeousness. really something! Only right at the end a suggestion of oak, but that will fade… Super!
Lafon / Heritiers Lafon

DSC09839Poured by Dominique Lafon and Stéphane Thiboudoux.

2014 Mâcon-Prissé
Deep nose, faint flashes of oak, but attractive all the same. Round, supple, a little richness of texture, but cut by good, if today slightly oak-inflected flavours – but the finish is really super!

2014 Mâcon Milly-Lamartime
A fresher, wide nose. Sweeter, fine and supple over the palate. Faintly saline, with a great burst of fresh flavour heading towards the mouth-watering finish. Super, really super!

2014 Mâcon-Chardonnay Clos de la Crochette
An even prettier nose with sweet fruit references. Wide, layered and mouth-watering. Just great! Almost a little tannin!

2014 Saint Veran
Wide, with a suggestion of oak toast, the palate is pretty, complex and also a little touched with toast. But a lovely, achingly great finish. Excellent!

2014 Viré-Clessé
Here is a bright, high-toned nose, with freshness. A round but vibrant palate – a grain of tannin to the texture, a more composed wine but a beautifully complex wine. Great finishing.

2014 Meursault Clos de la Barre
A bright not so wide nose but with plenty of top to bottom action. An accent of oak at the top, but only that. Wide, supple, finely clichéd Meursault flavour – and beautiful at that. Brilliant finish, despite still some oak highlighting. This is still in tank for now.
Caroline and Jean-Marc Morey

Jean-marc is the father, this is the first vintage with Caroline’s new label. Her vinifications are the same place as Pierre-Yves Colin – her husband. 2.5 ha, and 8 different wines, three Chassagne 1ers, even some red.

2014 Chassagne 1er Chaumees
Here is a modest, but pretty and precise nose. beautiful, mineral, wide, lovely depth of flavour. Vibrant finish – Excellent!

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Caillerets
This is modest (the tasting glasses?) but very fine aroma – a hint smoky, beautiful. Lovely in the mouth, fine dimension, energy complexity. Bravo! Great finish…
Olivier Merlin

DSC09793All bottled, and poured by Olivier.

2014 Mâcon Roche Vineuse
Fresh but a little closed nose. Bright, plenty of flavour, yum!

2014 Mâcon Roche Vineuse Vieilles-Vignes
From 5 parcels, all the old vines.
An extra freshness and, perhaps purity. Wide, large-scaled, complex, a certain minerality too. This is excellent, it seems quite a jump from the non-vv. Fine mouth-watering length too.

2014 Saint Veran
Fresh a little tight but certainly still pretty. Nice texture in the mouth, moving over tongue well; an intersting wine of freshness yet weight of concentration too. Yum!

2014 Pouilly-Fuisse Sur la Roche
Also fresh and just a little tight on the nose (small glasses!) here is a little oak sweetness to add to the fruit sweetness. A relatively discreet wine but with fine detail. Just a suggestion of oak in the finish too.

Jean-Marc Morey

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet La Bergerie
A deep perfume, less finely pure is my first impression. On the palate this is fine and very, very mineral. Sweetness leaches across the palate. Quite tasty and certainly with fine intensity. I think it just suffers from following his daughter’s Caillerets… Very good length.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
A nice freshness, here with a hint of vibration. Lithe, but concentrated wine. Big, almost bulky flavour – but boy is there a lot of flavour. Again not the most refined – but a barrel of enjoyment, still. Great finish!

Thomas Morey

DSC09838Poured by Thomas. Any of these can be thoroughly recommended – just a super selection of wines.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Chenevottes
Fresh, attractive high tones, Tighter in the bass. Here is a little oak flavour and a fresh transparent palate – hardly any texture – direct finishing, tasty wine.

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Baudines
Very discreet but with a pretty floral top note. Clearly more mineral, faintly saline, complex and very, very lovely flavour – excellent! This is really very long.
2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Embrazées
Again a nose with some discretion, but a fine, complexity – it’s lovely. Larger-scaled in the mouth with a sweetness that grows and grows over the fine base of complexity. Excellent again!
2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
A mix of parcels.
Also not a large scaled nose but really a fine width – like all these, very attractive. More direct, more mineral. Like the others – back-end loaded with flavour. Excellent!

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos St.Jean
The family style aromas, modest but fresh, a little floral and a lot attractive. The first wine with an accent of vanilla, but intense, concentrated, and with super energy – the texture’s not bad too. Lovely mouth-watering flavours.

2014 Bâtard-Montrachet
3 parcels, all in Chassagne.
Wide, seemingly more mineral than the other aromatics. Really it’s like that on the palate too – very wide panorama, slowly mouth-watering, a texture that suggests tannin, clarity and a great, really great finish. Bravo. Not a massive wine by Batard standards, but totally engrossing.

2014 St Aubin 1er Les Charmois
A nice, modest but inviting freshness of aroma. Nice in the mouth, some freshness, plenty of complexity, good texture and acidity, faintly saine. This is very yum!

2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Clos du Caillerets
Wide and very pretty top notes, tighter below. Good shape and freshness, flavour leaching from very corner of the mouth. This is super.

2014 Chassagne-Montrâchet 1er Les Vergers
More overt nose – wide and detailed – nice. Good shape in the mouth, a growing well of fine mid-palate flavour. Super again – sans doubt!

Etienne Sauzet

DSC09785Poured by Benoit Riffault. The villages is in bottle since the end of year, the rest for only three weeks.

2014 Puligny-Montrachet
A fine nose, a certain background of oak, but very subtle. Also the palate has some oak, but as it fades there’s a fine bright clarity of wine – excellent. Fine mouth-watering flavour and a simply super finish – yum!

2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Perrieres
There’s a hint of oak here for too, but more than enough other notes to balance. Bright, fresh clean and wonderfully pure – I love it! The finish is modestly intense but brilliantly long and finely flavourful. Bravo!
2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Folatieres
Wow – fresh, complex, pure wine – a simply great nose. This seems more mineral than the Perrières, gorgeously detailed, gorgeously finishing!
2014 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Combettes
Also very fine and fresh. A pretty floral flash from time to time too. A little fuller, slightly rounder, but again with a very fine mineral base. More mid-palate concentration, though certainly not ‘better’ I love the long. Mouth-watering finish though…

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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