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Some Chablis 2014s

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A short list – if not so short in time – lots of elbows were needed as the place was packed. Only at lunchtime was it possible to breath and approach the stalls – mainly due to the massive queue to eat. A shame, then, than most of the ‘presenters’ had also decided to disappear to eat lunch too!

I purposely chose to taste only 2014s, which relegated about one-third of those domaines from contention. I also chose to taste wines only from producers that weren’t covered in my January report.

A few nice addresses to be found here.

Chateau de Chemilly

Presented by Loic Vilain. It’s a 28 hectare domaine, all mechanical, and not all is commercialised by the domaine.

2014 Petit Chablis
From 2 communes, 30-40 yo vines
A nice salinity here. Round, a certain softness but quite nice in the mid-palate.

2014 Chablis
21 ha of vines here. This an assembly of the ‘best’ parcels.
Also a hint of salinity, but here with more citrus depth. Softness but with lovely sweet acidity cutting through. And a pretty saline note to finish. Yum!

2014 Chablis 1er Vosgros
1.3 ha, all tank elevage.
A pretty nose, faintly floral, certainly hinting at a mineral depth. Fine in the mouth, waves of flavour. Fine, fine wine, again a lovely complexity. Finishing a little saline. Very lovely wine. Nice finish too.

2014 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
Only about 1000 bottles, 30% new oak but very light toast, 100% in barrel for the last third of the elevage – two-thirds in tank. Total elevage about 10 months.
A very discreet oak on the nose – no vanilla here – a sweetness at the core of the aromatic. Extra mineral, wide, mouth-watering flavour. Yum. Certainly the most mineral but with a comforting sweet edge to the acidity. Excellent!

Domaine Besson

Presented by Camille Besson, 21 ha domaine, 7ha in Chablis, 5 ha in Montmains. the domaine uses machine harvesting except for the grand crus.

2014 Petit Chablis
1 ha of vines but from multiple parcels, all tank elevage
A booming green herb note – fresh and attractive. Nice intensity here, layers and salinity – lots of fine flavour. This is super!

2014 Chablis
Stainless steel aging.
A modest but fresh and pretty nose. Nice width and dimensions of flavour. Here is clearly a good address. Super long – yum faintly saline with sweetness too.

2014 Chablis 1er Vaillon
Vaillons and Secher – a little over 2.45 hectares worth.
A nice floral and saline blend. Wide, complex. Good energy, less sweet that some but wonderful mouth-watering, saline, sweet-edged flavour – yes!

2014 Chablis 1er Montmains
Bottled in November.
Also a florality here. More direct acidity, lovely! Lovely layers of mouth-watering flavour. Long, long, less overt than Vaillons today. But a very tasty wine.

2014 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
Only in bottle 3 weeks. About 0.9 hectares.
Modest but very pretty, yellow fruit – very pretty indeed. Gorgeous mouth-watering flavour here, clarity and complexity. This is excellent.

Sylvain Mosnier

Presented by Stephanie Mosnier and Christophe Futally. 18 hectares domaine, thermo-regulated stainless-steel elevage with lees, and mechanical harvesting.

2014 Petit Chablis
4 hectares.
A fresh, faintly phenolic top note. Nice salinity and a good energy, at the core – I like the fruit very much. Around the edges it’s less sweet and less instantly attractive – but this is a fine aperitif.

2014 Chablis
A discreet but wide and attractive nose. This is nice in the mouth – good energy and flavour dimension. Fine length too – yum!

2014 Chablis VV
Representing about 3 hectares
Now this has an attractive, floral nose, fine intensity, a little less sweet than the Chablis, but lovely complex flavours. Yum!

2014 Chablis 1er Beauroy
A certain green herb on the nose. Wide, incisive, chiselled structure, plenty of concentration and acidity. This lingers well.

2014 Chablis 1er Cote de Lechets
Like the rest, all tank elevage. Last barrels were used by the domaine in 2000
Wide discreet, fresh and seemingly pure aroma. Fine, direct and intense wine, lacking a little sweetness today. But lots of flavour dimension – very enjoyable all the same, just a hint of salinity on the tongue.

Domaine Bachelier

Presented by Florence Bachelier – a 19 hectare domaine – mechanically harvested and with tank elevage.

2014 Chablis
14 ha of Chablis. but only 0.80 ha for this vv
A nice, high-toned and complex nose – a hint floral and a lot inviting. Fine texture and concentration – a floral quality in the mouth too. Excellent!

2014 Chablis VV
The domaine has lots of VV, but only .8 ha are represented by this cuvée.
Also a flora element – attractive and with a certain heft, too. Wide, complex, excellent! Just a super villages.

2014 Chablis 1er Fourneaux
A wide, more mineral, less floral nose. A bigger core of intensity, slowly expanding, great energy and complexity. A good line of finishing flavour – fine – a good address!

Domaine de Chaude Ecuelle

Presented by Gérald Vilain. All tank elevage, producing about 100,000 bottles per year.

2014 Petit Chablis
The domaine has about 20 hectares of Petit Chablis
A nice faintly floral nose, a bold, round, tasty complex wine with salinity and deliciousness – yum! Great pc!

2014 Chablis
21 ha of Chablis
A nice clean, attractive, aromatic freshness. Complex direct, attack, fine energy – a linear but very tasty wine! Even tastier finish.

2014 Chablis VV
Vines with at least 50 years. Like the 1er cru, hand harvested in 10 kg small cases.
A modest intensity, but fresh and interesting nose. Wide, layered, more obviously mineral wine. Super complexity and interest – excellent!

A super address!

Philippe Charlopin

Presented by Yann Charlopin, clearly this isn’t a Chablis domaine, but they have 5 ha in Chablis.

2010 Petit Chablis
Prefer to keep bottles two years in bottle before releasing. 600 l barrels, 14s not yet bottled.
A round, smoky oaked nose. Fine shape and dimension in the nose, complex, mineral saline, though also oaked – not more than the Raveneau though 😉

2010 Chablis
Here is only the most discreet of oak – a certain softness of yellow fruit but very inviting. Good texture, good energy a wine that works itself over the palate very nicely. The flavour seems a hint diffuse, but nice wine.

Samuel Billaud

Introduced by Samuel. A 4 ha domaine, also some negoce wines. 12 month elevage, all tank on lees. First too wines a mix of hand and machine harvesting – the old vines by hand. The last two by hand.

2014 Chablis
A hint of flowers, Really fine width of very tasty flavours in the mouth. Very yum!
2014 Chablis 1er Fourneaux
This time 15 months again in tank
A fine, discreet, floral nose. Fine extra dimension of flavour. Great energy, super dimension of almost green-shaded fruit – really excellent with massive intensity!

2014 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
Like the others, not massively intense aromatics, but very inviting. Here’s a lovely attack, complex, understated, but vv tasty wine. Lovely, lovely…. Super finish.

2014 Chablis Vaudesir
Only this wine is 100% domaine. 6 months in barrel the 12 in tank with lees, this to be bottled in a few weeks.
Really a perfumed nose, despite plenty of oak. Gorgeous presence in the mouth, a certain sweetness but still with very fine acidity. Gorgeous!
Louis Jadot

Vinifications in Beaune, they press here, and then ship the juice to Beaune – like Drouhin.

2014 Petit Chablis
Contracted grapes.
A modest nose, but faintly inviting. Wide, deep, a little mineral, plenty of complexity. A very good pc!

2014 Chablis
Represents between 45-50 hectares of purchases.
Ooh – that’s nice – a pretty lime complexity here. Wide, fine energy, direction, and tasty complexity – yum! Super finish!

2014 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Here 40% oak, but old oak.
Hers a nice nose, oak inflected, but tasty. Lots of complexity, plenty of oak too, but tasty, wine.

2014 Chablis Preuses
Oaky but with a really fine line of green and tasty fruit. Super salinity, grand cru complexity, just a little too much taste of oak today, but if it fades, this will be really super.

Château de Viviers

The château has almost 12 hectares, all from commune of Viviers, is the family of Lupé-Cholet so all Albert Bichot. Not the same grapes as their Albert Bichot labels, but made via the same Long-Depaquit vinifications. 80% exported is, the biggest domestic (French) client is Nicolas. Historically an important market is Scandinavia.

2014 Chablis
A certain freshness. Rather discreet. Wide, direct, a certain amount of intensity – a good line of flavour.

2014 Chablis 1er Vaillons
The label confusing as it says monopole, what it means is that the Chateau Viviers is monopole of Lupé-Cholet (I think!) not that they have the monopole of Vaillons and/or Chablis 😉 True Vaillons from higher vines than those of Domaine Long-Depaquit.
A nice wide, relatively discreet nose – saline. Fine, lovely in the mouth intense, complex, a hint saline. Just a super wine, very direct and very tasty.

2014 Chablis 1er Vaucoupins
A little richness from bottom of the hill, usually one of the first to be harvested…
Another rather discreet but fine nose. Nice texture, waves of flavour, fine pure wine with a very engaging still direct personality.

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

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