Here’s a compendium of wines, mainly tasted with producers at the end of March 2012 – almost 200 wines – the bulk are culled from tastings put on for the Grands Jours de Bourgogne which happens every two years. I’ll start with a selection of wines from Beaune, followed by a blast of Grand Cru whites and then a selection of 2009 Cortons before jumping into the producers.
A selection from Beaune
All tasted in March 2012.
Here are very floral aromas. The flavours are a little more herbal and there’s some astringency too. In the context of the vintage, this certainly doesn’t shine.
The nose is wide, though not particularly deep – very interesting though. This seems less ripe than some bottles, but the acidity is quite good. Overall this seems a little sour.
Cuvée Signature. Deep creamy oak invites you in. Silky texture becomes more velvet as tannin with a faint layer of astringency shows. There’s more wood than fruit today, but give it time…
The aromas are mix of floral and fruit – overall quite high-toned. Round and mouth-filling yet the flavour is rather late arriving. Easy to drink now, but everything is in place for this to age…
Plenty of ‘dirty’ toasty oak on the nose, but there’s also delicate and precise fruit and herbs – it’s very interesting. Lithe impression with plenty of balanced structure and mouth-watering flavours too. Despite the oak notes, I find this rather interesting.
Deep colour. The nose starts with a twist of oak, accenting a fruity depth. There’s depth in the mouth too – lots of structure but excellent balance. Overall I’d call this borderline rustic, but it’s also flavour-packed. Give it 12 months more…
A villages monopole. The nose is dark and silky with some fainter herbs too. Rather impressively structured and concentrated for a villages. Plenty of mid-palate flavour. Good, but a wine to wait at least 12 months for…
I find a surprising lick of dark oak on the nose. Mouth-filling, with cushioned tannins and an impressive depth of flavour – yet the flavour is currently subordinate to the wine’s structure. Very, very good – but a wine to wait for.
The aromas are more high-toned and a herbal than the 2008, eventually the fruit starts to peek through too, becoming ever-prettier. Lots of fruit flavours – impressive, indeed quite lovely. I have a slight preference for the 08 – but it’s a close-run thing.
Medium-plus colour. Real depth to the aroma with some herby notes too. Good mid-palate expansion of flavour – this is lithe and fresh and shows lots of personality – good!
The nose is narrow but quite deep, showing very pretty red fruits and a slightly lactic creamy note. The flavour is sweet, coupled with a supple base of tannin – like the nose it’s just a little narrow but has impressive depth of dark flavour. Very nice.
There’s dark oak on the nose that mainly fades with a swirl or two, leaving subtle red fruits. Very pretty cherry fruit flavours and an oak-derived flavour and structure in the mid-palate. Clean and tasty, with its own, currently oaky style.
Bright red cherry fruit, but overall slightly mute. In the mouth this is round and silky with a nice burst of flavour in the mid-palate. . A long if rather understated finish.
A selection of 2009 white Grand Crus
All tasted in March 2012. The Chablis were just so incisive that (just like tasting Champagne from tank) I thought my teeth may dissolve – what a wonderfully welcoming cushioning and sweetness I found in the first Corton-Charlemagne that followed them!
The aromas are quite dark with hints of green herbs. Fresh, with a lovely intensity – clean and refreshing with a very good length.
Just a twist more ripeness to the nose. Very nice intensity though counter to the nose the fruit is not as ripe as I was expecting. Rather mineral – I like this very much.
Faint brioche on a nose that displays width, rather than depth. There are plenty of savoury flavours here as part of a beautifully intense package. It’s a style question, rather than a quality question, but is there a little too much wood in the recipe…(?)
Less forward aromas than the JM Brocard, with just a hint of bread. A very mineral wine that has nothing to say about when it comes to fruit. Long and stony finishing.
After the Laroche, here is some fruit on the nose. In the mouth this is fresh and seems to have decent intensity too. I find the flavours nicely detailed and the mid-palate is rather concentrated. Good follow-through into the finish – nice!
A little warm bread on the nose with a faint undertow of fruit. Mineral and wide flavours without massive depth but a very fine intensity. A long diminuendo of flavour in the finish. Very good!
The nose is very shy – revealing little. Cllear and intense, certainly mineral – indeed very mineral – another wine where you can forget fruit. Long and stony – indeed very long!
There’s a very nice green herb note on the nose. Linear, mineral and refreshing – very long finishing too. I really like this.
There’s a little brioche and a slightly warm feeling to the nose. In the mouth this is very fresh – I would say bracing! Just a hint of green-skinned fruit in the very long finish. Very nice wine.
The nose is rather tight. In the mouth it’s a different kettle of fish, offering a broad, mineral impression before a lovely peak of flavour in the mid-palate – flavour that continues to leach from every pore. Excellent!
An understated nose. In the mouth this is very fresh – lots of acidity brings decent intensity but maybe this is a little too tart. Saved by a fine finish!
The nose has plenty of depth and interest. Like the previous wine, this is a little tart but delivers real intensity – love the finish!
The nose is cool and tight. Lots of rocks in acid is the impression on the tongue – despite whiplash acidity this one’s not too tart. A roller-coaster of a wine.
After a hat-full of Chablis, this is a completely different animal, showing wonderful depth on the nose. There is extra fat and sweetness though the length is the same. Despite a clear extra layer of richness, this wine is impeccably balanced. Just lovely!
There is a depth of aroma that shows plenty of toasty oak notes. In the mouth there’s lots of sweetness but lots of oak too. Impressive and with very well balanced acidity, but as a young wine this is not my preferred style – I’d be very interested to see what it’s like in another two years…
The nose offers subtle oak with a litlle vanilla too. Lots of intensity and lots of style here too. Great finish!
Green-skinned fruits and very faint vanilla. Lush and silky but with lts of minerality too – Lovely stuff. Fine length.
Again there are green-skinned fruits. In the mouth this is very straight and mineral – indeed narrow – then, oops! – where did all that dark oak come from? Shame!
The nose has a lovely depth, hinting at so many things – really fine. Also in the mouth I find a fabulous complexity – not as rapier-like incisive as some, but a really beautiful wine.
Green-skinned fruit with hints of grilled bread herald a fresh and fine nose. Plenty of concentration that’s coupled to fine acidity. There’s a lovely peak of flavour in the mid-palate – good stuff!
Understated aromas, just a few herbs. This seems rather mineral for Bâtard, perhaps it’s a little light in the intensity department though. Nice freshness.
The sweet nose is like entering a patisserie. Full, ripe fruit, yet still some minerality and intensity – seems nicely fresh. I’d say this was rather good!
There is a little patisserie on this nose too. Lots of sweet fruit and a lovely growth of intensity as you head into the finish. A fine wine.
Just a little toast aroma here, but little else. Sweet fruit that’s backed by a mineral base and an ever-growing intensity. Very, very long – this is superb.
A selection of Corton from 2009
All tasted in March 2012, courtesy of the Côte d’Or négoce, and what a blast! Concentrated and tannic – I was almost punch-drunk after tasting these – négoce or not, I’d have any of these in my cellar.
The nose offers a depth of dark-red and black fruit. There’s lots of structure here – just a little mouth-puckering today, but I really like the fruit below – and there’s good concentration too. Wait 15 years!
Again a really super depth of fruit. Again plenty of structure though the overall sweetness doesn’t live up to the promises of the nose – no matter the fruit is interesting and delicately flavoured, particularly in the finish.
Dark fruit that hints at reduction. The ample tannin has great cushioning and like the other wines you have to wait for the fruit flavour to build. Classic Corton for aging.
Fraint reduct and brash red cherry. Here is a hint of sweetness below considerable structure. The finish is nice and long, and indeed mainly fruit! Good stuff.
The nose offers up tons of interest; fruit, minerals and high-tones. The sweet fruit has a good try at taming the structure – in this particular case it seems a draw! Great potential.
There is sweetness on the nose. Ther is also some sweetness to the fruit too – but suddenly you are in the iron grip of the tannin – and there’s plenty of that. Impressive stuff.
Dark and interesting – perhaps a hint of bacon fat(?) before a clean line of red cheery takes its place. Like all these Cortons there is plenty of structure (of-course!) but there’s plenty of sweet fruit below too. Very long and fine.
The nose is quite fresh and high toned. Wide, with lovely sweet fruit before the waves of tannin begin to exert themselves. Long finishing – another monumental wine.
The nose delivers understated warm fruit with a little minerality. Full of sweetness – lots of ripe tannin, certainly – pretty red fruits in the finish. Another monument in the 09 vernacular.
Domaine Arnoux-Lachaux (Vosne)
Tasted in March 2012 with Lachaux Senior and Junior.
Deep and quite pretty aromas – just a few higher tones too. Minerality forms part of an excellent depth of flavour.
Forward nose with some understatement at the top and good depth. Plenty of tannin here but the flavour eventually comes out the winner in the finish. Plenty to wait for…
Dark red fruit nose. There is even more structure than in the ‘Poisets’ and some grain to the tannin too – yet it’s far from astringent. Vin du garde…
There are high tones of super-pretty fruit. Round, a little mineral with flavours that take a long time to decay. Good wine.
Deep, concentrated fruit on the nose with a faint whiff of herb too. Some slatey minerality, plenty of tannin – the fruit notes only showing quite late into the finish. Good wine, but to wait for.
A surprising note of leafy maturity on the nose – far from that in the mouth though, where you have plenty of tannin and good intensity. The structure is appreciable – but it won’t stop you (me!) enjoying it right now!
Domaine Louis Boillot (Chambolle)
Tasted in March 2012 with Louis.
Herbs and red fruit define the nose. In the mouth you have pretty red fruit that is suddenly over-run by tannin – but the tannin is fine and hardly astringent. I like the finishing dimension.
Interesting red fruit, that despite a slightly disconcerting bubble-gum note, seems elegant and quite nice. Across the palate this seems to have more width than the villages wine that preceded it. Fine fruit which suffers the same uprising of tannin as the last wine, but as it fades the fruit is your rock – this will be fine.
The produce of 60 year-old vines. The most structured of these wines – the tannin dominates everything. Nothing to say today – except wait…!
The nose offers-up a lovely mix of fruit and herbs. On your tongue you have the sweetness of the fruit and certainly plenty of tannin too – but it’s a balanced presentation – actually, this is very lovely!
Domaine Philippe Boire (Melin)
Tasted in March 2012 with Philippe, who started in 2007 and is now producing nine cuvées from three hectares – 95% red wine – he uses no stems and chooses to have neither cold or warm macerations. I like the results.
Nice colour. The nose is about deep red fruit with just a little oak spicing. I find lots to commend this – there’s structure, but not too much, and a good finish – yum!
Again the nose offers-up deep, dark red fruits, this time with a trace of reduction. Extra sweetness but the tannin is a foil to keep you on your toes – Good finish!
Here is a lovely perfume. Pretty, sweet fruit supported by plenty of structure – this is very, very nice!
Deeper, darker fruit versus the Carelles. Also in the mouth there’s some dark fruit perfume. Plenty of sticky tannin and good length. Yum again.
Domaine René Bouvier (Gevrey)
Tasted in March 2012 with Bernard Bouvier.
A deep colour reflects also the depth of the nose, just a little meatiness too. There is plenty of wine here; good dark fruit with decent supporting tannin that stays on your tongue for a while. Long finishing – the style is slightly rustic, but it’s packed with flavour.
Understated nose. Full and quite textured – the fruit whilst less pronounced (versus the Marsannay) delivers an nice intensity of flavour. A good wine.
The nose is higher toned than the Fixin, but still quite shy. There’s plenty of structure – the tannins lingering in your mouth – and there seems almost no fruit flavour until you approach the finish, when there’s a modest blossoming. Clearly a wine to wait for.
Made from eighty year-old vines. The nose has a depth of fruit with a faint musky edge. Plenty of structure again, but here the tannin is finer than the ‘La Justice’, the fruit is also easier to find! There’s a nice burst of fresh flavour as you enter the finish. Very nice, and with no unnecessary padding.
Here you will find a lovely depth of very pretty Gevrey fruit – really impresses. Fine tannins and slightly narrow flavours, but they are intense and long lasting. This will be very good!
These are ‘old vines’ located in Mazoyères. Quite some depth of aroma here, but with a slight estery element (this is a sample from tank that’s waiting to be bottled). In the mouth this is a classically friendly ‘Charmes’ with super fruit that largely buries the undertow of fine tannin. There is certainly some potential here.
Maison Champy (Beaune)
Tasted March 2012.
Plenty of high toned herb on a nose that makes me go mmmm – lovely. Round and mouth-filling, with some fruit sweetness. Good structure before the mouth-watering fruit flavours take hold. Yum!
Wide and pretty nose with some flowers too. The structure is clearly a notch higher than that of the previous Pommard, but it’s suffused with lovely fruit flavour. Very pretty wine, but clearly with a punch!
Wide and interesting fruit notes – quite some depth too. Here is a classic Corton of muscle without fat that bursts with high-toned fruit in the mid-palate, the flavour very slowly decaying in the finish – super.
Maison Chanson (Beaune)
Tasted March 2012 with Gilles de Courcel.
High tones mix with some herb notes. Luxurious mouth-feel – plenty of velvet tannins, though only the faintest of astringency and plenty of flavour bubbling through. Long finishing. Lovely.
After the Champimonts, this has a slightly more floral dimension to the nose – a nice, subtle dimension from the stems. Those stems are more obvious in the flavours – but what pretty flavours they are. Subtly long – an self-assured, confident Beaune.
The nose has both depth and width, with notes from the stems and a few herb references too. In the mouth, sweetness is the first impression, the tannin-led structure the second, and the third and the fourth too! Lovely mouth-watering flavour in the finish and little that is astringent. Super – but start drinking in 2030!
Complex, interesting; quite spicy, herbs and roast meat. This starts out very silky until a little late-arriving tannin makes a grab for your gums. Dark flavours and just a little astringency in the finish – a wine to wait for.
Domaine Bruno Clair (Marsannay)
Tasted March 2012.
The deep colour is matched by a similarly deep nose – very nice fruit indeed. In the mouth this is cool and understated – good structure and lasting flavour. Nothing facile here. Very, very good Marsannay.
Dark colour. Exception depth to the nose – dark red almost crystalline fruit. Silky but with a twist of velvet as you hold onto the wine – the tannin never turning particularly astringent. Then there’s a burst of super flavour before the long finish. This is a monument to Savigny – it’s beautiful!
A panorama of gellied black fruits. In the mouth this is mineral, muscular, silky and intense. Lovely fresh finish – lovely.
Depth of aroma – slightly herby red and black fruit. Beautifully composed; there’s clarity of flavour, super-fine texture before the tannin becomes a little sticky. Long, long, narrow and fine – no padding here, just first class wine.
Domaine Clos du Moulin aux Moines (Auxey)
A 10 hectare domaine, relaunched in 2008. Vines are mainly in Auxey and Pommard – about 80% of which produces red wine. Tasted with Jordane Andrieu in March 2012.
A monopole vineyard of the domaine. The high-toned fruit has a lovely red shade but also comes close to volatile and gives you the expectation that the palate may not be so ripe – actually it’s okay, indeed the fruit flavours have a suggestion of ‘roast’ about them. Good, but not great wine.
Here there is more aromatic depth. The flavours are also sweeter and seemingly deliver more clarity of fruit. Good structure – this is quite nice!
Like the ‘non-VV’ I find something almost volatile. Yet in the mouth there’s a lovely fruit note that shines through the centre of the wine.
Here the aromas are darker – there’s more oak too. Plenty of structure here – indeed fruit is something of an after-thought – come back in 2-3 years…
Domaine A et V Creusefond (Auxey)
This domaine concentrates on Auxey with a hint of Beaune, Pommard, Volnay and Meursault thrown in for good measure. Tasted March 2012.
Medium colour. The nose is a collection of high-toned fruit and herbs. In the mouth you have the impression of very cool fruit – I certainly wouldn’t go here for a ‘ripe party’.
Darker colour than the Auxey. Again, both the nose and the palate showcase fruit that is neither sweet nor succulent.
Deeper and darker aromas. In the mouth the fruit is also darker – but also from the dark side are the astringent tannins…
Domaine des Croix (Beaune)
Tasted with David Croix March 2012.
Aromas seem supple, certainly round with sweet fruit. In the mouth there’s pretty fruit with a good level of complexity, currently detracting my attention is a little vanilla (I’m sure that will fade). Overall, very nice…
In bottle for 3 weeks. Lovely high-toned fruit, some flowers too. There’s tannin too, but only if you chew hard – lovely floral flavour too. Not a block-buster, but achingly tasty.
The nose is tight as a drum. Saline mineral flavours, concentrated and long finishing. This is really a wine to wait for.
The nose makes you stop – hmmm – quite high toned and achingly pretty. There’s some sweetness to the fruit but it also delivers a sting of intensity in the finish too. This is very yum!
Bright cherry red. Cushioned and floral – a very pretty nose indeed. In the mouth this is round, cushioned (again) and velvety. Flavour growing in the mid-palate – Yum!
The nose is a blend of herbs and fainter flowers. The wine’s structure slowly bubbles to the surface of this silky wine. A long thread of flavour in the finish.
The aromas are quite narrow, but they come from a deep and dark place. Very, very silky, again with a salty minerality. Concentrated, but tight – hard to see more today.
The nose is a little tight/faint, but is pretty and wide. Mouth-filling, quite concentrated – velvet tannin provides some cushioning. Eventually some fruit and flower aromas can be discerned. Good villages.
The nose has a clean and clear red note that is very, very pretty. Lots of width, but not much padding of the muscles which flex over your tongue. But it’s a controlled display. Good stuff.
After the Vigne aux Saint, here is more depth of aroma – indeed even the nose seems to have muscle! In the mouth this is clear about the posing of lithe muscle. The flavour only slowly leaches from every gap between your gums and teeth. Certainly a more mineral wine than the ‘Saint’ – and very long too.
Domaine Cruchandeau (Chaux)
A new name for me, tasted with Julien Cruchandeau in March 2012. Julien was regisseur at a domaine in Bouzeron for five years before setting up on his own just outside Nuits. He currently makes wine from three hectares spread from the Côte Chalonnaise into the Côte de Nuits.
Just bottled. Made from a selection of older vines from two vineyards – made 80% in tank. Aligoté of-course. The nose has a core of sweet and I must say, rather inviting fruit. In the mouth it’s less sweet than the nose suggests, with just a little cushioning to the texture. Understated fruit and just a little minerality but I’m missing some engagement today – the best I can say is it’s clean and fine enough.
Pretty aromas hint at strawberry (nice) and banana (less nice to me). Apple is the flavour in the mouth, otherwise it’s rather closed – probably because it’s been in bottle only a couple of days – still, that’s three of your five a day….
The nose is a focused blend of raspberry and cassis. In the mouth this is round, lots of fine and supple tannin and flavours that linger. Good wine!
The vines are close to the border with Vosne – and it shows – lovely aromas and quite some complexity. This is structured but displays some fine fruit notes too. Considering it’s only been in bottle for three days this is certainly a little tight but it’s enjoyable all the same. Looks like a good buy!
Domaine Diconne (Auxey)
Another new name for me. Wines tasted in March 2012
The nose offer-up some sweetness of fruit. Likewise there’s a sweetness to the fruit flavour, yet today this is showing in a sullen, hard and drying fashion. Leave for 2 years.
Interesting dark-red fruit aromas, with flashes of dark red berries. Nice ripe fruit on the palate – plenty of tannin too, but not too dry. Very good acidity. My first Bretterins, and it’s a success!
Amazing – one-third of this bottle is already poured, yet it’s clearly corked and nobody noticed! Bottle number 2 shows a range of pretty, and easily differentiated fruits. Sweeter (riper) fruit again, and a very nice overall balance. This is good wine.
Here the vines are over 80 years old. The nose is quite tight. In the mouth we have a little more texture and a nice expansion of flavour in the mid-palate – holds your interest. Of-course everything is underpinned with plenty of structure, but this is rather good.
Domaine David Duband (Chevannes)
Tasted with Mick Hucknall lookalike David Duband in March 2012. Until this day I’d never had a Duband wine that I liked, finding the style very commercial and confected. If these wines are anything to go by, there’s been a bit of a sea-change at the domaine.
Made with about thirty percent stems. Floral, clearly some stems but they are well-presented. The palate is sweet, but far from confected; a hint of saltiness to the structure and decent intensity – very well made.
Made with about forty percent stems, and from three different parcels of vines. Again stems on the nose, but less obviously so than for the HcDN. Cool fruit, a hint of minerality and plenty of ripe tannin – this is excellent, particularly as even more cool fruit works its way through the finish.
Made with about fifty percent stems. There’s a very faint hint of reduction and slightly less faint floral notes from the stems. There’s plenty of structure here which ingrains itself into your palate but leaves a calling card of lovely fruit flavour in the finish.
You’ve guessed it, made with about sixty percent stems! Wide, welcoming, floral aromas – maybe even a little fruit. Lots of sweetness from the fruit, concentration too. Even for Grand Cru, I find this very impressive.
Domaine Dujac (Morey)
Tasted with Jeremy Seysses in March 2012.
Already bottled, this has a very pretty high-toned complexity of aroma. Lush in both flavour and structure, and whilst it majors for the moment on tannin, the fine fruit is a lovely long line into the finish. Lovely and rather friendly stuff – quite a temptress!
A little reduction (it was racked/assembled into tank only the day before) and a fine floral (stem) note. The impression is like having a dozen TVs playing simultaneously – Wide, very impressive and complex ‘wall of sound’ flavours and textures – it’s close to ‘overload’. The faintly astringent tannin is very fine. Real distinction in the finish – super – and my favourite part of the act.
The nose wells up with forward, beautiful fruit, a little warmth and a lot of love. Silky, yet there remains a little anecdote of the astringent tannin of the vintage. Lovely freshness and complexity. It si a beautiful performance today, but no need to rush – yum!
Domaine Fargues (Bligny)
I never tasted wines from this domaine before, tasted in March 2012.
Pale colour – one sniff and you know why; stems. This I would class as a little gothic, but it’s also very pretty. I not some astringency, but it’s more of a hint than a statement. Lacks a little density but there’s a pleasing high-toned flavour – this is tasty and long.
Deep notes of stems and sweet fruit. Soft and supple with a hint of salty minerality. The finishing flavours are red fruit borne on a mouth-watering acidity. Medium length but very pretty.
Domaine Geantet-Pansiot (Gevrey)
Tasted in March 2012.
Some purple colour. Lots of high-toned fruit with a faint reduction below. Here is plenty of flavour dimension and really great balance. I’m not sure that it speaks of Chambolle today, but it’s very tasty.
From a blend of 17 different parcels. The colour is also quite purple here. Like the Chambolle the nose offers plenty of higher-toned aromas, but over a subtly darker fruit. The flavour profile seems wider, but less deep – good intensity, and decently long finishing on a fresh note. Tasty again.
Here is a depth of Gevrey soil underpinning a clear, clean fruit note. Clearly the flavour is more mineral than for the previous village wines – intense and wiry – no extraneous padding. Long finishing and impressive for what it isn’t (plump, charming etc…)
Domaine Ghislain Kohut (Couchey)
Tasted in March 2012 with Ghislain. A new domaine to me but one whose wines had a certain class: The domaine began in the 1940s and today has a not inconsiderable twelve hectares, mainly Marsannay, but there’s also Gevrey and Vosne – even a hint of Grand Cru too. The 2010 samples were ex cask so I’ll just give you an impression of those samples.
Here’s the one 2010 that’s in bottle – aromatically muscular laced with pretty high tones – quite nice. Round, a little pineapple flavour which tends to apple in the finish. Quite nice.
This has a very pretty nose indeed – I like the fruit very much. The nose promised a depth of flavour that cannot, in reality, be delivered, but this is balanced, interesting and shows a sneaky length – good wine.
From a 1.5 hectare plot of Crais de Chêne. The nose is slow to evolve, majoring mainly on herbs to start. There’s plenty of tannin just now and it’s dominating the flavour profile – I do think that there’s fruit in there though – definitely a wine to wait for!
Domaine Pierre Labet (Beaune)
Tasted in March 2012 with François Labet.
Good colour. High tones on the nose – you can almost smell the colours! Plenty of sweetness and excellent mid-palate density of fruit – good wine!
Also deeply coloured. Very pretty aromas of flowers and fruit. More structured than the villages Beaune, the flavour slowly leaching from your gums. Really nice wine, though obviously young.
Domaine A et B Labry (Auxey)
Tasted in March 2012.
Light colour. The nose is estery and not so pleasant – it has a message – DNPIM – so I didn’t.
More colour, nicer nose. This time I did put it in my mouth – and it was better than I expected – but I had low expectations.
Domaine Clos des Lambrays (Morey)
Tasted with Thierry Brouhin in March 2012. Also tasted a sample of the 2011, a wine currently about finesse and flowers – I hope it stays that way – but was lacking a bit of focus, I’m sure that will come!
More depth and width. Depth and texture is on another level to the 2011, some added minerality and a leaching, growing well of flavour – the acidity bubbles understatedly below. Lovely stuff!
Domaine Comte Liger-Belair (Gevrey)
Tasted with Louis-Michel and Constance Liger-Belair in March 2012.
High tones mingle with flowers and sweetness of fruit. Understated concentration, lovely balance and a faintly salty mineral tang. Very long finishing.
Here the fruit is more to the fore; wide and high-toned. In the mouth the fruit is similarly high-toned and of purest red. Just keeps getting better in the glass – lovely!
This has a beautiful, floral, high-toned nose that hints to stems – even though Louis-Michel claims not to use them 😉 There is a wide panorama of flavour – lovely – before an impressive growth of intensity in the mid-palate. Wow!
Domaine Lycée Viticole (Beaune)
Tasted in March 2012 with Marie-Jeanne Jacquet.
The nose is round, with a faint musk, deep-shaded fruit, but still red. Plenty of depth to the flavour, and interesting flavour too. Lovely length – a very good wine.
The aromas as smoother and finer than those of the Savigny, but of much less impact. In the mouth this is stricter and more mineral. Despite very good length I’ve a preference for the Savigny today.
The nose has deeper, darker fruits versus the Bressandes – ripe and sweet. Quite silky with good intensity to the flavours – nice level of freshness too. This is very good.
Concentrated red fruit aromas – accented with flowers too. Rounder than the last wine, and with a subtle but effective padding and richness too – only accented with tannin. Decent minerality too – another very good wine.
Domaine Stéphane Magnien (Morey)
Tasted with Stéphane in March 2012.
Here is a lovely depth of slightly herbal, dark Morey fruit. Round and quite silky with good concentration. I like this very much.
The nose delivers very pretty red fruits – quite dark shaded and quite lovely. There’s fine fruit in the mouth too – intense and with very supple structure – this is lovely. Very, very long.
Here the fruit aroma is higher toned, still red and quite creamy. The fruit flavours are less in your face, more elegant yet with an extra level of structure. Very nice indeed.
Domaine Méo-Camuzet (Vosne)
Tasted with Jean-Nicolas in March 2012.
The very pretty fruit is bright, clean and red. Just a hint of mineral flavour to add to very pretty and long-lasting fruit. There seems no structural barriers to enjoying right now!
Very understated aromas. Intense flavours that major on high-toned fruit are very long. Again the structure is buried in the overall package.
High-toned aromas of dark fruits that become more and more gorgeous with time in the glass. Mineral, fine, rather impressive wine – in its shiny suit of armour – not a trace of fat, just rippling, taught muscle.
Domaine Agnès Paquet (Meloisey)
A new domaine for me – tasted, with Agnès who farms almost five hectares, in March 2012.
Fresh, crisp aromas with a core of warmer fruit. There’s a sweet agrumes flavour – so obviously good acidity too where the flavour lingers well – very nice.
The nose is higher-toned versus the Auxey blanc, some herbs in the mix too. Rounder, initially less incisive but there’s a bigger growth of flavour in the mid-palate – quite a big wine. Very nice!
Some of the vines for this cuvée are 80 years old, longer time on oak for this wine – but it’s not made every year There’s a deep core of ripe fruit on the nose – but not too ripe! The palate is soft, but with lovely acidity – fine intensity too – and no obvious oak either. Very long – bravo!
Hardly an barrels used here – “I’m not looking for complication or extra depth, just a nice crunchy fruit”. Wide, fresh and bright pinot fruit. In the mouth the flavours are quite linear, though clean, tasty and indeed nice. I think Agnès has achieved her aims!
From the same parcels of vines as the domaine’s white. Pretty, high-toned red berries on the nose. In the mouth there’s more padding versus the Bourgogne – more tannin too. Fine fruit that is also the main constituent of a good finish. Nice wine.
There’s an extra depth of fruit on the nose – and quite elegant fruit at that. In the mouth the fruit is rather cool – i.e. not particularly sweet – yet it delivers a gorgeous after-taste before gently fading. There’s a little tannin, relatively fine grained that never jars. Good wine.
Domaine Pavelot (Pernand)
Tasted in March 2012 with Lise Pavelot,
The nose is high-toned and quite floral. In the mouth this starts agreeable and clean then slowly begins to fill your mouth. Very pretty wine with a little understated tannin – actually this is very nice/pretty.
The nose is deeper and darker than the villages. In the mouth there’s more structure, you might even say a hint rustic – but tannin fades. The flavour really expands in the mid-palate – impressively so – I’d buy this!
The nose shows both depth and density, some dark herbs too. There’s lots of structure here, but it’s underpinned with super intensity – mouth-watering flavours in the finish. Very good, but don’t expect a shrinking violet.
More understated but also more complex aromatics than the last wine. Full impact. No gaps left in your mouth – of-course there is also a lot of structure, but it’s ripe enough and is backed by dark, mineral flavours. Wow! But this is DEFINITELY not a wine for the next 10 years.
Domaine Gaston & Pierre Ravaut (Ladoix)
Tasted with Vincent Ravaut in March 2012.
Very pretty high-toned red fruit notes. Fills the mouth – far more density and richness than you are expecting. No mid-palate peak, rather a direct, unwavering line of flavour. This is very nice.
The aromas offer a few herbs set against darker fruit. Some ‘fat’ to the texture here, interest too – very tasty. Does it finish a little fast? I don’t care – it tastes divine.
The fruit is less dark shaded than the Corvée and offers a wider panorama too. A hint of saline minerality – quite mouth-filling. Plenty of structure that’s offset by an ebullient personality. Dark flavours in the finish and just a little dryness to your lips – lovely.
The aromas are quite guarded to start. More sucrosité, less fat yet still a rich core of fruit. This is very well balanced, with the acidity just quietly bubbling below the surface – excellent.
A wider panorama of aromas (wouldn’t be hard after the tight show of the VV) – flashes of very pretty flowers too. Serious structure below, yet it is supple as well as powerful. Fine acidity keeps the equilibrium – lovely finishing flavour too – an easy buy!
Domaine Rebourgeon-Mure (Pommard)
Tasted with David Rebourgeon in March 2012.
I like the depth of aroma – very, very pretty red fruits. In the mouth this is round, full and also very, very pretty – yum.
A little more colour. Darker red fruit notes, the nose showing more width than depth. Plenty of power here though the tannin is fine. Mouth-watering dark fruit – lovely stuff.
The vines are more than 100 years old. Medium, medium-plus colour. Some minerality augments the dark-red fruit of the nose. Supple, extra width and very fine tannin.
Very nice dark red fruit on the nose – tons of depth too. Here is plenty of tannin, but ripe tannin – lovely balance, lovely wine.
The nose has less impact than the Mitans, but offers fine and precise red berry notes. Mineral for sure, plenty of tannin too. Overall a more linear and less enveloping wine than the Mitans – exactly as it should be.
Domaine Georges Roumier (Morey)
Tasted with Christophe Roumier in March 2012.
Very pretty fruit aromas with a complimentary floral note. Very fine tannin, pretty (again, sorry!) middle-weight wine. A thing of beauty.
High-toned, also with a faint floral aspect to add to the MSD herbs. There is an extra twist of sweetness to the fruit to go with a similar increase in tannin. The mid-palate fruit is gorgeous. Yum, yum!
Finer, less full aroma – rather understated. Soft fruit, without soft-focus – very, very pretty (can’t help myself) indeed! Long, subtle finish.
The nose is fine and engaging, but it is hardly preparation for anying exceptional. Swirl around your tongue and wait a little: first you note a subtle undertow of flavour – the panorama is wide but less deep than the other wines – but the flavours are absolutely multidimensional. Wow – where did that come from? Lovely stuff indeed!
Domaine Gérard Seguin (Gevrey)
An old domaine, but one that was new to me. Tasted in March 2012, with the son (there’s a daughter too, Chantal) of Gérard and Agnes – Jérôme Seguin – who farms about six hectares of Gevrey, Chambolle and Fixin. These 2010s had all been in bottle for about three weeks, and were not filtered.
From vines near Chambolle. There are a few notes of dark oak – nothing too heavy. Plenty of structure for a bourgogne, yet their fruit is rather ‘soft-focus’. This is quite an okay wine, but not my style preference.
From vines near Gevrey. Again there are a few oak notes, this time welded to darker fruit. The flavour is more incisive, seeming to deliver more intensity and a better freshness than the Cuvée Chantal. I think this is very good.
The nose has nice depth, a hint of musk and even a suggestion of spearmint. Fresh in the mouth with good structure that helps cement a nicely lingering flavour. Very pretty red fruit flavour seems the main distinction between this and the previous bourgogne.
Up to 40% new oak may be used here – but you can’t tell! The nose is high-toned and quite mineral – quite a pretty thing. Cool, structured flavours with a nice length of fruit flavour. Good wine.
The nose has a little oak to back the Gevrey soil and powdery red fruit. Again, cool, unsweetened fresh fruit that holds on very well in the finish by dint of some furry tannin.
Red fruit but just a hint of reduction too. In the mouth there’s a little more sweetness to the fruit – and nice fruit it is too! Plenty of furry, slightly drying tannin also. There is reasonable balance – wait 12 months before approaching…
Made with the produce of 60-90 year-old vines. Medium, medium-plus colour. I find soil and minerals – this is a nice Gevrey nose. Quite soft despite the attention of furry, slightly drying tannin. This is okay, but like the first wine I’d like it to be more incisive – but that could be the recent bottling of-course…
The domaine possesses almost one-third of this premier cru, all planted with old vines – the average age is close to 70 years, but the oldest are more than 100… The nose is both finer and wider, majoring on precise red fruit. In the mouth I find this a little soft but the fruit flavour is quite lovely despite the attention of the acidity and tannin – they are slightly in the ascendant today, so wait before opening.
Tight, but quite pretty aromas. The structure is fine – not too astringent. This is a very unfussy, medium-weight and uncushioned wine where you feel you are in direct contact with everything. I like it.
Domaine de Suremain (Mercurey)
Tasted with Loïc de Suremain in March 2012, all 2009s from “the core of Mercurey“.
The nose has depth and quite some interest. In the mouth the fruit has good depth and a slight creaminess too. The finish isn’t the longest, but this looks like a nice introduction to the range…
All ‘raised’ in barrels. Lots of high-toned red fruit on the nose. IN the mouth this is a little mineral and is fortified with plenty of slightly drying tannin. Needs a little more time…
This is also quite high toned but there’s an addition depth of fruit to the aromas. The fruit is more ebullient across the palate versus the Créts, but retains a powder-coating of tannin. Quite interesting.
An impression of warmer fruit on the nose. In the mouth the flavour expands more and has more dimension in the mid-palate. As is the norm here, there’s plenty of tannin, but this is nice wine!
Again, there’s a warmth to the fruit. IN the mouth I really like the blend of pure fruit and structure – perhaps not the extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate shown by the Evêque, but this is a very nice package. .
Nice aromatic complexity overlaying a sound base of fruit. Quite the highest level of tannin but a bubling baseline of fruit keeps it largely in-check. Another good wine.
Domaine Baron Thénard (Givry)
Tasted with Jean-Baptise Bordeaux-Montrieux in March 2012.
Here is a mouthful of wine – full of flavour with a hint of licorice too perhaps. Quite lovely.
High-toned aromas of pretty red fruit. Mouth-filling again; quite some sweetness of fruit that has the balancing hand of structure. An absolute bargain of a wine.
Wide aromatics with very, very pretty red fruits indeed. Mouth-filling; there is lots in here, the structure is quite in control today but there is a very beautiful fruit below.
Tight aromas. Wow! This is very silky, yet very powerful stuff too. Few words – great wine.
Here is a clean and clear, very lovely fruit note that seems infused with a little almond complexity too. Certainly more welcoming and cushioned than the Corton. I find this a very good GE!
The nose has great depth for such a small glass, understated complexity too, that draws you in. A little like the nose, this is quite understated yet has a super-wide perspective of flavour and an insinuating complexity. Something new in the glass with each sniff and sip!
Domaine Trapet (Vosne)
Tasted in March 2012.
High tones mixed with a few herbs. There is a little reduction on both the nose and palate (all these 2010s are bottled) but with a good blend of fruit and structure. The fruit flavour shining through in the finish.
Depth of aroma; very pretty fruit notes that hint towards Leroy. Very impressive fruit flavours that are long-lasting too. The structure is understated, but always present. The type of Latricières that’s very hard to find! Excellent.
Herby, complex fruit aromas. There’s a depth to the structure, each grain of tannin is coated with flavour and each exerts itself in a mid-palate crescendo of flavour. Very, very good wine, maybe a little better than the Latricières, but it’s a close-run thing.
Domaine C Vaudoisey (Volnay)
Tasted in March 2012 – I didn’t know the domaine, but these wines are stars!
Wow – this has a very pretty perfume – red fruits and a fine depth. There’s lots of structure, but there’s no keeping down this fruit – perhaps even a spicy hint of ginger. Lovely villages.
A melange of herbs and fruit on the nose. Despite considerable underpinning structure, this is a wine of elegance and poise – lovely.
Ooh – a depth of lovely primary fruit that becomes more complex at the edges. Fresh, pretty fruits, lovely complexity, long and elegantly impressive.
Dark fruit that is both complex and wide. Clean, cool fruit in the mouth – again plenty of structure – long finishing on a mouthwatering fruit note. Super!
Domaine Joseph Voillot (Volnay)
Tasted in March 2012.
Lots of herbs float over understated, warm red fruit. After lots of Auxey, this is rather lush and round, showcasing pretty fruit. Yet this wine is seriously put together. Very good.
Deeper aromas, with a nice herb-crust! Sweet, lovely delicacy – and that’s despite appreciable structure. Very nice fruit indeed. Yum!