Remoissenet: 2010 Update (2008s)

Update 13.4.2010(14.4.2010)billn


Visited 29.01.2010.

Although Bernard Repolt greeted us, he left us in the more than capable hands of Claudie Jobard while we toured the cellar. Business in 2009 was ‘satisfying’ for Bernard, almost matching 2008 sales despite the financial turmoil.

Late malos here like most places. Most whites to be bottled in mid February, all the whites are bought in as grapes and vinified by Claudie and the team. The reds to be bottled in March, Claudie was a little worried that the wines would be closed – the Beaunes were racked that week – but no problem from what I tasted. The deeply coloured reds delivered little more than 20-25 hl/ha in this vintage.

A very strong set of wines here – in both colours – bravo!

2008 Remoissenet, Bourgogne Blanc
In bottle since December. Fresh aromatics with a nice breadth of fruit. The flavours show commendable width and some minerality too. Fresh and pleasing.
2008 Remoissenet, St.Romain
Picked quite late – the beginning of October. The aromas are deep and show an added creamy base versus the bourgogne. Likewise there is decent depth of flavour and a good texture to boot. Lovely fruit and perfectly balanced acidity. This is very, very nice.
2008 Remoissenet, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Les Perrières
To be bottled in a couple of weeks, perhaps with a fine filtration. The nose delivers width and impact – fine. The palate, likewise, is no let-down with a panorama of flavours that expand very well into the mid-palate – lots of extract here. Lovely length. Very fine…
2008 Remoissenet, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Morgeot
Only two barrels The nose gives the impression of being ‘smooth’ – fine and wide aromas – none of the broad-shouldered approach that often comes from this vineyard. Sweetness of fruit, silky texture and the mid-palate power of Morgeot is clear here. This is close to ‘opulent’ yet remains balanced. Impressive stuff.
2008 Remoissenet, Meursault 1er Les Charmes
If anything, the nose of perfect Meursault fruit, accented with cream, seems even silkier than the Morgeot’s. Silky texture too, super balance and flavours of white stoned fruit, the cream of the nose is reflected in the flavours too. Superb Charmes.
2008 Remoissenet, Meursault 1er Genevrières
A hint ok oak toast and a smoothness that is coming to define these wines. The flavours appear more mineral, but the favour intensity slowly grows wings in your mouth, eventually I find this a little less mineral than the Charmes. Given that it had a light filtration this week, it’s very impressive.
2008 Remoissenet, Montrachet
Aromatically wide, showing caramel and primary fruits. This is very much a ‘stealth’ wine, understatedly, unobtrusively crossing your palate before searching out and filling every potential place to deliver flavour. The flavour holds for a lng time.
2008 Remoissenet, Beaune 1er Touisants
The first year bio for this 2ha plot, racking was made 5 days ago so apparently has lost a lot of aroma. Emphatically good aromas here of pretty fruits encased in modest oak, so it must have been tremendous before racking. Plenty of structure here and an ingraining, insinuating flavour. Well balanced and very, very nice.
2008 Remoissenet, Beaune 1er Grèves
Here the nose is less effusive, yet the aromas go deeper and frame darker fruit. Like the Touisants, there is plenty of structure here, in this case even more, yet it is balanced and very long.
2008 Remoissenet, Beaune 1er Marconnets
The aromas are more brambly – blackberry and hedgerow – edged with chocolate. Plenty of tannin and acidity, yet the fruit is enough to balance. The third Beaune, and all three have shown impressively dark colours – I expect the extraction has not been spared as all three deliver plenty of structure too – yet there is no impression of the wines being forced. A super trio.
2008 Remoissenet, Nuits St.Georges
These vines are situated right next-door to Vosne on a plot that became bio for the 2009 vintage. Dark notes of fruit blend with faint herbs and again a hint of chocolate. Finer tannin than the Marconnets, I would say relatively elegant for Nuits. More than just pretty, I’d say this is rather impressive for a village Nuits.
2008 Remoissenet, Vosne-Romanée
A very small yield – only 3 barrels in 2008 – there were 8 in 2009. Despite attempts to coax something from the glass, the nose remains stubbornly tight. This fills your mouth with flavours that are wider than those of the Nuits, and tannins that have more volume, there are hints of licorice too. This is a good wine, but today I have a preference for the Nuits, apparently this was more interesting before it was assembled.
2008 Remoissenet, Gevrey-Chambertin
Hints of reduction lift to show red fruits with (as Claudie says) ‘tendresse’. The flavours are dominated by the ripe fruit and the sweet oak, again hints of licorice flavour as you fall into the finish. Velvet tannin – like the Nuits, this is a very elegant villages.
2008 Remoissenet, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Echanges
100% new oak.The aromas mix dark fruit, coffee and smoke – but not from stems, there are none. There’s a lovely depth to the flavour, and I note that the fine tannins have a Morey-style slight stickiness (tack) to them, Claudie thinks it is wood tannin. Lovely wine.
2008 Remoissenet, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er PoissenotsAlways a colder vineyard – you need to wait late to harvest. The nose is quite understated yet mixes interesting floral notes with traces of coffee. High-toned red fruit flavours mingle with appreciable, if not overwhelming structure. The flavour lingers impressively. I like this personality!
2008 Remoissenet, Clos de Bèze
Bought in as grapes, this was a very long elevage. Here the nose is rounder – both bass and top notes – I’m not sure if pretty is an adjective that might damn a Bèze with faint praise, so just in case, it is very pretty indeed. Very impressive in the mouth, perhaps even a ‘wow’ wine. Whilst there is an air of rusticity about the tannins, here is verve and complexity – real energy before a very good finish. Bravo!
2008 Remoissenet, Charmes-Chambertin
Lots of millerandes in this parcel. Also aromatically ’round’, but with more understatement. Here is a wine with silken tannins, though don’t underestimate the structure below. Hints of licorice on the long finish. Not the fireworks of the Bèze, but this Charmes follows it with greater elegance and aplomb.
2008 Remoissenet, Clos de Vougeot
Not an easy parcel to manage though well-placed in the higher section. No difficult, austere rendition of Clos de Vougeot here; soft dark fruit aromas are accented with caramel. More open dimensions of complexity than the Charmes, coupled to a Charmes level of elegance. Another very strong wine, fine and long.

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