I had the pleasure to whiz around the Marie in Volnay during the Grands Jours de Bourgogne and before too much of a crush of visitors. Unfortunately I had only 45 minutes, but returned with 17 notes and a few discussions with their producers. These are predominantly 2006’s and there are no bad wines among them…
Medium colour. Wide aromatics with focused red fruit and faint oak. Mouth-filling with lots of well-managed tannin and super acidity. A long creamy finish with plenty of oak flavour.
2006 Bouchard P&F, Volnay 1er Taillepieds
The nose goes a little deeper than the Fremiets with darker shaded fruit. There are still plenty of tannins, a little astringent but also a little finer. More flavourful and with a little more dimension of higher-toned fruit on the palate.
Medium colour. The smooth nose hints at coffee. Lovely fruit easily covers the tannin and does a fine job masking the oak. Lovely penetration of the palate by this fruit-driven and super wine.
2006 de Montille, Volnay 1er Mitans
Medium colour. Red fruit dominates the nose – jam tarts. Good texture and plenty of tannin that’s balanced by the cream-edged fruit. The acidity helps to push the finish quite long- Very nice.
Just a shade darker than the Mitans and with high-toned aromatics. The tannin has a little more grain and the fruit is quite linear until it reaches the finish where it finally amplifies and widens.
2002 de Montille, Volnay 1er Carelle Sous La Chappelle
Medium-pale colour. Herbs, minerals and certainly more earthy aromas. Very fine tannins and staining flavours – also some minerality here. Very, very nice…
Medium colour with some purple reflections. High-toned aromatics are the main theme. Well-mamanaged tannins and a dark, slightly reductive element. The fruit in the mid-palate is lovely before fading into a medium length.
2006 Pousse d’Or, Volnay 1er Clos de la Bousse d’Or
Medium, medium-plus colour. Wide aromas of with fine red fruits. Fine tannins with super acidity that leaks flavour into the finish which has a hint of cream – very nice.
The aromas a quite mineral, but mixed with dark (but not black) cherry. Good, mouth-filling concentration and super acidity. High-toned and very focused fruit in the finish – super!
2006 Pousse d’Or, Volnay 1er Clos des 60 Ouvrées
Medium-plus colour. The nose is a mix of oak and dark fruit elements. There’s plenty of tannin but it’s set against beautiful dark fruit and mouthwatering acidity. Again super.
Medium colour – in bottle for 1 month and the colour has shrunk apologises Jean-Pierre Charlot! A lovely red-fruit nose that is delicate and focused. High-toned fruit in the mouth and plenty of acidity. Long-flowing finish is very nice. Simple, well-made and with a super nose.
2006 Joseph Voillot, Volnay 1er Fremiets
Medium colour – same story! – the aromas are more mineral and floral. Riper and fuller. Medium concentration, the acidity pushes the mid-palate along nicely into a quite long, fruit-driven finish. Lovely.
This has been bottled a little longer and is a little deeper in colour. A wide, floral and interesting nose. In the mouth there’s a little more understated power, more tannic but balanced and showing another dimension of flavour in the mid-palate. Also lovely.
A deeper medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is also deeper, showing more oak and a hint of reduction. Lovely coverage of the tannins and plenty of oak on the palate too, but the finish is pure and fruit-driven. Good wine.
2005 Comtes Lafon, Volnay 1er Champans
Medium-plus colour. Dark fruits, a little oak and floral tones – violets on the nose. Meatier tannins and good dry extract too though the tannins aren’t quite covered. The length is very impressive, dark and interesting.