I met Grégory Patriat the day before he was presenting his wines to a rather larger Maison Boisset tasting that I couldn’t get to. In doing so, I had luck; first I got him to myself, and second he was able to muster 20 bottles versus the six that would be presented the following day – seems I did well.
The wines were all presented at the cool cellar temperature – perfect for serving your whites, but a little chilly for les rouges. Yet again, I find ‘correct’, intense and balanced wines from up and down the Côtes and while I wait for pricing, if the 2005’s were anything to go by, they will offer sound value.
10% new oak. A very high-toned, slightly floral nose – but focused. The palate is fresh, mineral and easy. Good and not to simple…
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits
15% new oak but very light in colour. The nose shows that oak, but is also a little richer for it. This is much more flavourful and intense. Very good at this level.
From 40 year-old vines in Comblanchien, raised in 20% new oak. The nose is just a little reticent and diffuse. In the mouth it’s a narrow entry which slowly opens and provides lots of late arriving intensity – I like the personality here.
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Marsannay Blanc
From 50 year-old vines in the south of the appellation, raised in 20% new oak. The nose is wide and high-toned with an underscore of pineapple. Wopw – explodes in the mouth! It’s not amazingly long, but it’s very attractive and shows excellent value.
Four barrels from 2 parcels mainly just under Les Vergelesses. Rich and concentrated fruit on the nose. In the mouth it’s nicely concentrated, showing plenty of forward fruit and a lingering finish.
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, St.Aubin 1er Sur Gamay
Seven barrels in ~20% new oak. The nose is a little tight but it’s lovely in the mouth, just a little fatter and richer than the Savigny. Good balance though – this is very nice.
From under Les Genevrières. The nose is reasonably precise, though not quite the focus of the St.Aubin but is quite fine. Lovely, balanced and fresh. Concentrated with a lingering finish.
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Meursault 1er Les Charmes
Only in bottle for one week. The nose is rather tight. In the mouth it manages to be concentrated without excess fat and shows an obvious extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate that also seeps into the finish. Super.
The same amount of new oak, but from a different cooper – so more noticeable – but there’s plenty of depth below. A lovely mineral aspect couples to perfect acidity. It’s not fantastically long, but it’s very, very tasty.
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Champs Gains
Raised completely in one year-old barrels. Intense fruit on the nose. Superb concentration, mineral with a fine spine of acidity and many, many dimensions. Super complex and very fine. Yum.
Bottled in December – ten barrels. An intense, very focused nose. Lithe, tannic and with very good intensity for a villages. I think this will be super.
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Santenay 1er La Maladière
Raised in 20% new oak. Wide, understated ripe fruit on the nose. The first impression is the mineral length and a slowly evolving, soft fruit coating filling the mouth.
Twenty percent new oak, from 60 year-old vines just above the Clos de la Roche. The nose is quite different to the last wines – just focused red fruits. In the mouth there’s lots of interest and ever-more flavour through the mid-palate. Excellent!
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Chambolle-Musigny
A blend of 4 plots which will account for 3,000 bottles. An understaedly fragrent nose. In the mouth it’s a little rounder and has similar concentration to the Morey, but it’s much less complex. Lovely.
This a villages lieu-dit that I’ve never seen explicitly on a label before. The vineyard is lower down the slope from Bonnes-Mares, and touches on the villages portion of Les Beaux Bruns. The nose is quite ‘big’, wide and interesting. The well-textured palate has a sneaky width and length. Clearly a structural step-up from the last wine with plenty more tannin – but it’s well-enough packaged. This is very nice.
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Pommard Les Vaumuriens
Fine depth on the nose and it’s just a little wilder than than the previous Chambolle. Full-bodied and tannic. Does exactly what it says on the label – sturdy, burly Pommard – but no hard edges. Very good.
From seventy year-old vines that produced less than 20 hl/ha. Forward, with precise, very red fruit on the nose. Big and concentrated in the mouth. Ripe fruit that travels very long into the finish. Very, very good.
2006 Jean-Claude Boisset, Clos de la Roche
The nose is not so deep, but offers a super and complex width of dried fruit notes. Wide in the mouth too, showing an understated concentration. The balance is impeccable such that it’s not so easy to comment on individual components – but the length is super. A fine bottle.