Tasted in Jullié with Thibaud Baudin, 20 February 2020.
Domaine de Boischampt
593 Chemin des Vignes
Tel: +33 6 98 15 66 68
This is a historic domaine in Jullié and set on the high street of this attractive, small village. But you may be forgiven for not knowing the name – its produce having been sold for many years in bulk.
Thibaud explains “Investors made this adventure possible. A couple who just want the best wine – what could be better? The vines of the domaine have been worked conventionally but we’ve already started the process of conversion of the work in the vines to organic. We also had no established buyers of wine in bottle, so it’s a completely new start here – but with almost 15 hectares of land! It’s not all planted yet, but we’re working with that aim.”
I should note that Thibaud has an impressive CV; he trained at Davayé, whilst working in forestry, but studied his BTS with many vignerons, subsequently working with Jean Paul Brun before spending a year in New Zealand with his wife. When they returned, he did more studies in Dijon, followed by working at Domaines Laroche and d’Henri in Chablis, whilst somehow finding the time to work in 2010 and 2012 with Pierre Vincent at Domaine de la Vougeraie, then again in 2017 with Sylvie Poillot. As you will see later, Thibaud also knows how to make white wine!
In 2018 there are 7 different wines; 4 domaine and 3 from contracts. The contracts are a mix of filling the volume until all planting comes on stream and some vines that were subsequiently purchased in 2018 – so Maison de Boischampt – so they won’t stay ‘Maison’ for long. More vines (in the crus) have been purchased so the number of cuvées will gradually increase.
In their first vintage they have produced 30,000 bottles, with a rough aim of 100,000 bottles per year in the future, but not more. “It might take us 7-8 years to reach that level,” says Thibaud.
Thibaud on 2018:
“It rained a lot in the first part of 2018, so it wasn’t that easy to start with, but after that it was fine – if warm! I’m happy with the wines but based on these I decided to harvest a few days earlier in 2019 to add more freshness and a floral finesse – I hope – so far I’m happy with the extra definition I see.”
This is a great first page of what I fully expect to be an important story. I look forward to following the development of these wines in the future!
This from Garants. Half destemmed.
That’s a nice nose – a purity of red fruit still with a hint of the barrel showing – but really not much. Round, nicely textured before a little of the tannin exerts itself, but no grain. The wine could have a bit more energy but there is a fine mineral balance in the finish – and here it’s fine and mouth-watering. It has finesse.
Grand Charrieres, bought grapes. Deep soil here.
A more compact nose but there’s fruit of freshness in here. Wider, more concentrated but supple too – the tannin a little more evident but again with no grain. A little more energy to this wine – more fruit-forward, not the same mineral definition in the finish as the Fleurie – give me the start of this and the finish of the Fleurie and you have great wine!
All around Thibaud’s house – out of the centre of Jullié – the vines touching Juliénas, mainly south-facing with plenty blue granite here
A touch of reduction but there’s still freshness and a little herb to this nose – not as ample as the ripe St.Amour – but no surprise there. That’s a lovely velvety texture – wide, comforting, a little richness to this texture – but a wine that you can drink and drink – a touch of the herb from the nose in the finish. That’s a great BJV!
2018 Juliénas Le 4 Cerisiers
Half barrel and half tank elevage with some destemming for one part, not the other then assembled.
A compact nose but showing a little freshness. More structural wine – the velvet of the last but rather than richness to the texture, here it’s the structure that’s showing. More direct, open – a wine to wait a little time for – but is a super wine that’s already starting to offer some complexity. More impressive finishing – excellent!
2018 Julienas Beauvernay
South-facing hillside vines, the younger vines in here were destemmed.
Also a nose that’s a little tight but still with depth. Wider, freshness, mineral and saline. A modest sweetness to the fruit – that’s lovely – it washes across the palate then decides to stay – great length. A coolness of style but really comforting and long – excellent again.
2018 Juliénas Vayolette
Northern slopes, deep soil, this with a longer elevage – it won’t be bottled before April.
Tight again – but slowly, slowly with working the glass brings a freshness of fine and pure fruit – yes! Incisive, driving flavour – there’s great energy here. The tannin for the first time shows some grain but it’s really still micro-grained. The fruit is clean and fresh. The energy drives right into the finish. The finish is wide, with a saline wave goodbye – but it’s a long goodbye – excellent wine – so much potential here I think!
You didn’t think that I’d forget the white, did you(?)
Grapes bought from close to here while waiting for the domaine’s own plantation to come on stream. Working as he did in Chablis and Vougeraie: direct press, 90% in tank, 10% oxidized a little before mixing. About 60% barrel elevage.
That’s got a nice fresh aromatic – on with an attack and some citrus. Direct, plenty of concentration, modestly citrussy, growing wide, not a hint of rigour. Finishing in a caressing way – that’s a rare great white Beaujolais!