Tasted in Villé-Morgon with Claude Emmanuelle & Louis-Benoît Desvignes, 04 February 2020.
135, rue de la Voûte
Tel: +33 4 74 04 23 35
“In 2019 we suffered a little frost on 5 April – it affected about 1.5 hectares – but the rest was okay. We managed to make an average 31 hl/ha which is not that far from our average – we were over 40 hl/ha in 2018 but that’s exceptional. At this stage we think the wines elegant and fresh; we’re very happy with them”
“2018 was marvellous, bringing full tanks – it’s a simple thing but it brings joy! 43 hl/ha. It was an early harvest – 5 September – but lots and lots of attention was devoted to the long fermentations. It was warm, which degraded the acidity and makes us think of 2011 here – but there’s delicatesse despite the concentration.”
As every year, patience will be of the essence with the wines from this domaine – but what a range!
Bottling was done between March and July – ‘We like to catch the freshness of the wines:’
2018 Morgon La Voûtre St.Vincent
From 4.5 hectares of vines in the climat Douby and vines in the direction of Fleurie. Average 60-year-old vines, usually the first to be harvested. Made with a 14-day maceration in cement tanks, with some destemming for this cuvée since 2008.
An elegant fine nose – almost airy. Round, full, there’s density here, but also a hint of salinity – finishing seriously intense – even serious! Super impressive, and vibrant.
2018 Morgon Corcelette
A contract purchase. Vines on granite with a relatively high altitude.
Hmm – that’s an attractive nose – finely floral too. Beautifully silky, a modest cushion to the texture, open and delicious, mineral finishing – that’s an excellent wine!
2018 Morgon Montpelains
A new cuvée but in the domaine for a long time, was made in 2005 too but is normally in the St.Vincent – some clay here so a little like Javernières
A little less volume of aroma but fine and fresh like the Corcelette. Just a little less cushioning to the texture and the tannin shows more here – still very modest – still a little more structured – and I like structure. Lip-smacking in the finish – classically excellent Morgon.
It needs a little coaxing, but here’s a great nose – of floral and herbed complexity – yes! Mouth-filling, beautiful texture – insistent flavour growing in intensity, density even. Dark-fruited, almost licorice in the finish. That’s a super wine – but be patient!
East-facing bottom of Cote du Py. A different soil, so separated. There’s more clay here, and the grapes are a little slower maturing – here needs more time.
Less volume of aroma but still a fineness of aroma. A very different shape, fine texture again, here underpinned with a very fine grain of tannin. The most extravagant of finishing flavours – ooh that’s so great here – grand vin finish!
A black sheep on the label. This additional cuvée of Javernières is made from a much older parcel of vines ‘Les Impenitents’ – more than 100 years-old vines.
A super nose, more open and floral than the Javernières. Extra presence to match a little extra volume in the mouth. Sweetly fruited but completely balanced, complex and gradually easing into a more mineral style from the middle onwards. The finish a little more strict but again with wonderful complexity and persistence. Another great finish.