Tasted in Morgon with Jean-Marc Burgaud, 04 February 2020.
Domaine Jean-Marc Burgaud
La Côte du Py
Tel: +33 4 74 69 16 10
Jean-Marc on 2019:
“In 2019 we were just on the limit in Grand Cras – here it was 0°C but no frost – it was also a year with no hail! Lots of dry weather, just a little rain in August that allowed us to reach good maturity. Maybe a little less difference in maturity than usual in the early and later maturing sectors so I had to keep a close eye on the harvest dates. Floraison actually went quite well. It’s a very good vintage I think. Little humidity, like 2018, so no issues with maladies. The wines are now in tank, I won’t touch anything before the spring – I like the weather to warm a little first. The volume is good, not quite the level of 2018 but I’m happy.”
Jean-Marc on 2018:
“2018 is superb; a good volume and the markets are holding for now! An early year – the vines started very early too, good flowering and so an early harvest; we had practically no rain after the 15 June – except one small downpour in each of July and August – so not too dry for the grapes, just too dry for the maladies! So a good volume – one that would undoubtedly have been diluted if there had been more rain. I think the style and freshness of the fruit are a little more interesting than in 2015 for instance – 2015 is a great vintage but those wines will need time.”
Delicious wines in general, but Jean-Marc’s Javernières and ‘James’ cuvées have another level.
“All is bottled, the last two cuvées were done just a couple of weeks before my visit:”
Almost 5 hectares all in Lantignié – a single bottling of this.
Round, cushioned, slightly chocolate. Rich but with fine balance – that’s beautifully textured, layered flavour, concentrated – composed, delicious flavour. Widening, finish with excellence – super here. Before the finish I might like some more energy, but for the label that’s nit-picking at €8.50, this is great BJV…
2018 Régnié Vallières
The lieu-dit – 1 ha of vines here. 8 days of maceration.
A very different nose – more depth, more floral energy. In the mouth too, the energy is higher, good shape and mobile flavour here. Delicious.
2018 Morgon Les Charmes
1 ha of 1932 vines in the west of Morgon towards Regnié but a different soil, the latest harvested parcel at the domaine, usually picked 1 week later due to sitting in a cooler current of air.
Lots of floral aromatic impact from this nose. Mouth-filling again, a little accent from the tannin here but nothing dry, rather composed before a finish that resembles the BJV for its extra energy – there’s more scale her though. Lovely!
2018 Morgon Grand Cras
Just under 3 hectares of vines. Here is clay, it’s a harder soil to work, a little limestone in the mix too, part is less sunny. , the last was very granitic.
Here’s a beautiful nose – plenty of volume, floral accented – this is a fine invitation. More drive, more vibrantly flavoured. Depth of flavour too – this I find excellent – with a little structure that wasn’t visible in the Charmes. Excellent wine!
2018 Morgon Côte du Py
‘This is a cuvée that I think representative of what I try to do – there’s over 6 hectares of vines represented here – with context, richness and depth, and the touch of fruit – each parcel providing the different component – vines 45-65 yo old – I’m lucky to have them!’
An airy nose – of minerals of fainter flowers – that’s a fine invitation. A punch – there’s power, there’s impact here. Full, slowly melting with mouth-watering flavour. That’s a super and persistent flavour in the finish. Excellent too – I slightly prefer the Cras today – but that’s style nor quality.
This lower on the slope. All large-format barrels for elevage, older barrels.
A bigger nose, different, softer from the barrels, perhaps. Wide, a wine with energy, a touch of dark chocolate, supple, and absolutely gorgeous finishing – easily the greatest here, the start less interesting than Cras for me but the finish is that of grand vin.
This from the summit of the hill – all the rest of the elevage is exactly the same as the last – to the day, only the origin is different, even the vines were planted in the same year – 1965.
That’s a deep colour. That’s also a very fine nose of freshness, of delicacy but no lack of material. I like this shape more – a profile that’s more open, more freshly complex, composed yet still with energy – there’s nothing that’s laboured. Holding a very fine finish – not as demonstrably great as the Javernières today but close. Overall a great wine.
A really open nose of freshness and floral complexity. Nicely structural, a touch of tannic texture, great finish again – almost as good as the 18.
Almost a silky aspect to the aroma – wide – more purity of floral. Younger, structural, a little mouth-puckering tannin, but this build into a crescendo of deliciousness. Great finishing bravo – great wine!
2018 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
Vines planted in 2010, in Lantignié – a yellow clay hillside towards Regnié. ‘Here is a good mix of clay – there are not many places here with this soil, normally you have to head south in the Pierre Dorées. I want serious, but from the fruit, I’m not playing with barrels as we don’t really have the terroir for that’ – this 100% tank elevage.’
Sweetness and an airy minerality – plenty of punch from the fruit too. Mineral, layered, a touch saline, in fact, more than a touch. A slight rigour to the minerality but that’s lovely in the finish – very tasty wine.