Tasted with Gilles Paris in Chiroubles, 19 February 2020.
Domaine C G Paris
44 rue des Sarments
Tel: +33 6 87 56 91 48
Gilles on 2019 and a little 2018:
“2019 is a bit more on the fruit – lower yields too as we had some frost in the bottom of Chiroubles – about 30 hl/ha versus 40 in 2018. In 2019 there wasn’t any rain in the late summer and here in Chiroubles once you reach a certain point it can rain and rain and the grapes won’t grow bigger – it must be the slopes as it’s not like that in Fleurie or Morgon! The 2018s are better showing than the 2015s as they had some rain throughout the season, which wasn’t the case in 2015.”
A whole bunch of excellent to great wines – a super label(s!) in 2018.
All bottled, the most-part done just before the harvest, the ‘Jerome Paris’ (JS on the label) are from the vines of Gilles’ brother. The last wine he makes for the owner of some vines in Fleurie where his cuverie is housed:
2018 JS (Jerome) Paris, Beaujolais Villages
In Quincie – vines from parents – high altitude, ‘the last parcel that my father planted. Once the maximum you could expect here was about 10.5° – today, seemingly no problem for 12° or more.’
That’s a nice depth of sweet dark-red fruit – very inviting. Driving energy – a width of freshness followed by a growing salinity and even some graphite minerality. Really great in parts this wine – persistent too. Excellent…
2018 CG (Gilles) Paris, Chiroubles Terroir
A deeper nose, darker fruit – the lactic of the lower sulfur. Fuller, more concentration, ample fruit but a proper, nicely structured finish to this wine. Delicious!
Hailed in the previous 2 years so no separate cuvée in that time.
Hmm – that’s a lovely, more lively nose – floral. Elegant, slightly lactic, certainly mineral – lovely complexity. More vibrant energy here – lots happening, a big bright wave of finishing flavour too – that’s great. Long and graphite mineral in the finish. Bravo!
2018 Gilles Paris, Fleurie ‘Lieu dit Champagne’
A more composed nose – perhaps more concentrated, less energetic but attractive all the same. Vibrant, more structural, more direct. The tannin is present but not more than a strong accent. Direct and with not bad finishing intensity. The Grand Pres is the more delicious today, this the one to wait for – certainly excellent. Maybe more persistence in the finish here.
Hmm, that’s quite floral, not any suggestion of lactic – fresh and inviting. Driving, fresh, structural wine, growing in depth and salinity as you towards the finish. What a great finish too – this is for keeping but a great Régnié!
2018 Gilles Paris, Chiroubles Vieilles-Vignes
Not super dark colours for these. Wow – deep, floral, fresh – a vertical nose – there’s not much width but who cares! A faint gas. Wide, lovely texture a base of modest tannin but without grain. Almost a little chocolate in the middle. Composed, complex – there could be more energy in the finish, but it’s a delicious wine.
2018 Gilles Paris, Morgon Douby
Fresh and wide of aroma – a little lactic and plenty of flowers. Driving, direct fresh wine – this has a place to go – growing more tannic as you reach the finish, but never too much – the finish is vibrant, slightly structural and fine – good – because the start was a little lite. Very good and serious but also getting better all the time in the glass.
The vines around the cuverie – a red-wax topped wine. The wine made by Gilles.
Hmm – I have to say that’s a beautiful width of aroma – almost silky and floral. Fresh, mouth-filling – structural with a small underpinning of tannin. Intense and rather complex finish – long too – like a few of these your patience will be rewarded, but this is completely delicious despite the structural style – so long!