Tasted in Lancié with Gilles Gelin, 06 February 2020.
Domaine des Nugues
40 rue de la Serve
Tel: +33 4 74 04 14 00
More reports for Domaine des Nugues
Gilles on 2019:
“2019 was an economic misery but the quality is super – not far away from that of Fleurie in 2018. We didn’t have hail but we lost 35-40% in many of the villages due to the frost. ”
Gilles on 2018:
“2018 – I’d like the same every year until I retire! For me it’s a great vintage because lots of its freshness – I like 2015 but sometimes I can think that it’s a bit too much, but 2018 has a bit more freshness despite similar alcoholic degrees. Did I mention that there were plenty of grapes too?! We were 40% and 25% down in the previous two vintages, so of-course 2018 will ease the pressures. I used a lot more oak in this vintage too. My 92 year-old grandmother tells me that similar vintages to 2018 would be 1947 and 1965.”
Gilles has fashioned a super range – he has a number of highly worthy bottles…
2018 Beaujolais Villages Blanc
All from Lancié, on limestone, worked at a low temperature. Half malo was blocked – ‘I prefer not to, but it fit the vintage.’
Here’s a lovely citrus nose, with good freshness and a touch of minerality. Hmm- that’s a lovely driving minerality, suported / balanced by a citrus fruit. Modest rigour but fresh open and excellent BJV blanc!
2019 Beaujolais Villages Rosé
Made in the same low-temperature way as the blanc. Bottled in January.
A little saline, faintly red-fruited – nicely fresh – it’s inviting. A super line, fine texture, lots of freshness, practically no rigour.
Bottled one month.
A saline edge to a different style of complexity – a wine that grows in the glass becoming more and more attractive. Wide, complex, obviously gammy but with a little cushion to the freshness – . Tasty and lacking no concentration. Excellent! The finish just keeps getting better. Bravo!
2018 Beaujolais Villages
Just about to start commercialisation. Like all the BJV here, all is in Lancié.
Wide a fresh though less high-toned than the last. Wide, fine texture – a little growing tannin, but fine and fresh – great flavour – I’d show a little patience here – a year-or-so, but frankly it’s already delicious.
Bottled in August
Fresh, bright, a little pyrazine. Nice shape in the mouth – a good structure, modestly touched by its tannin, almost a suggestion of chocolate. Brightly, interestingly finishing – holding very well. That’s a lovely final flavour.
Very old vines with 11k density of plantation. Just about to start the commercialization
Oh, that’s a great nose – directly. The palate is much more structured than the nose would have you believe – but the flavour is excellent, slowly melting over the palate – with precision and clarity – that’s great but it’s not for now – today the structure is the boss, give this 2-3 years then try again – bravo!
Third vintage from 1.5 hectares in Burdelines – second vintage with hail too.
Great complexity of aroma here – a deeper fruit, darker in colour. Wide, nicely open, the tannin is hyper-fine, but there’s plenty of it. Fresh, complex – a little more composed than the Fleurie, perhaps a little more finesse too – but also for 2-3 years of patience. Bravo again.
2017 Elle et Lui
Mix of syrah and gamay
It’s gamay – but with pepper. Direct, beautifully textured, an almost confiture fruit but with freshness and line. I think it’s completely delicious I think I shouldn’t like it, but I really do!
The currently commercial vintage, all destemmed, a mix of barrel and tank elevage.
A modest intensity but a perfume, almost smoky. Sleek, ripe, faintly textured with a grain of tannin. The most impressive finish of all – wider and wider, perhaps even stronger too. Bravo!
And just because Gilles can:
2005 Beaujolais Villages Nouveau
Actually Gilles was thinking of taking some of this to a tasting – so we were the guinea-pigs!
Complex, very, very faintly mineral, smoky, practically the nose of a wine from another place. A certain richness, a concentration. The faintest of faint Marsala -style oxidation – that’s absolutely lovely!