Tasted in Denicé with Jean-Frédéric Sambardier, 14 February 2019.
Manoir du Carra Sambardier
Tel: +33 4 74 67 38 24
Jean-Frédéric on 2018:
“In 2018 we started harvesting 18-19 August for the crémant and then started on the 21st for the rest. It was a good rendement, but less than the regulations. Some of the vines suffered from the heat, other older vines never produce too much – of-course Moulin à Vent and Fleurie produced a little less – 40-45 hl/ha – mainly because of the two vintages of hail preceding, the vines taking their time to recover. The last harvested vines on altitude still had 14° natural! I’m content as there was much more than double the volume in 2018 versus 2017.”
Jean-Frédéric on 2017:
“2017 was easily 30% down, at the start the wines had some rigour, they had some material, but they have started to open – they have good depth, a fabric. It was a hard vintage because we had two big hail-storms in Fleurie and Moulin à Vent which cost us 80% of the production in those appellations. Elsewhere we had very nice results in terms quality and quantity though. Our harvest began at the end of August – we started on the 27th in white but for those it was only half a harvest there due to the dryness – it was really too hot to harvest in the afternoon – but fortunately at the start of September came some rain so we waited a couple more days for the reds, though some early ripening places were ready too soon for the rain.”
Despite a couple of low volume vintages, Jean-Frédéric is underway constructing some new cuverie facilities, which he hopes (plans!) to be ready before the 2019 harvest. “Historically had about 1.5 vintages in stock but we really ate into that in the last couple of years, so 2018 was really needed. I make wines with a certain elevage that need time to open so it wasn’t really a question to bottle early.”
A very good range and the BJV ist top class in 2017.
Two bottlings usually for this. Vines in Rivolé – quite close to here – all granite and schist – ‘a very Lantignié style of geology.’
Plenty of colour. A quite tight nose – faintly floral and hinting at plenty of depth. Supple – concentrated, layered, just enough sucrosity to bring this on another level – great texture, great BJV – just a delicious thing, faintly licorice and super long – and it will only get better in the next months…
2017 Brouilly Terre de Combaty
From the south of the appellation, plain south-facing vines.
Hmm – also a little tight. Narrower but more sleek – a beautiful line of flavour, framed with a little tannin – super depth of flavour here. Wide, vibrant finishing – it’s a baby but it already has a moreish mouth-watering flavour. Long with a slightly graphite mineral note. Excellent!
2017 Julienas Les Bottières
‘A terroir that can be slightly sauvage but after 5 plus years its sumptuous…’ Bottled just before the harvest.
Also a compact nose – but growing more than the others with a fine dark fruit. Supple, mineral, wide – growing in intensity, growing in stature, faintly saline and like the nose, dark-fruited. A touch of tannin in the finish but all is well-covered and well-balanced. Tasty wine of modest energy but great texture and length.
2017 Moulin à Vent Burdelines
Really a triage that was practically grape by grape – the hail took 70-80% of the harvest.
Ooh – the most open, perfumed, nose of all. Lots of volume, freshness – not a wine of exceptional concentration, but really a wine of fresh depth of flavour and great balance. Complex – delicious wine. Not profound but really excellent – and when you consider what went into making it, bravo. A fine wave of intense finishing flavour.
2018 Beaujolais Blanc
Denicé and Montblain for the grapes – both argillo-calcaire. Only one week in bottle. The only wine bottled a little early so there’s something to sell! Good pHs but a low total acidity.
Hmm – not an ‘in your face’ nose but one of ripe fruit and a little fresh salinity it’s a good invitation. Fresh, supple, nice layers, and a touch mineral. Mouth-watering in the finish – obviously you taste the pH not the total acidity! This is a super aperitif.