tasted in Villé-Morgon with Jean-Baptiste and Claude Emmanuelle Desvignes, 05 February 2019.
135, rue de la Voûte
Tel: +33 4 74 04 23 35
“2018 marvellous – full tanks – it’s a simple thing but it brings joy! 43 hl/ha. It was an early harvest – 5 September – but lots and lots of attention was devoted to the long fermentations. It was warm, which degraded the acidity and makes us think of 2011 here – but there’s delicatesse despite the concentration. But a vigilanmce was required in the making, to avoid the volatiles. It’s the generosity rather than the concenrtation that is the most apparent today.”
“In 2017 we were hailed again, so there’s not too much wine – less than in 2016 – and now it’s all sold out. We bought some grapes in Corcelettes and Montpelains too – two parcels near Doubie. The hailstorm was like a sand-blasting in Fleurie in 2017 we even considered replanting some of Côte du Py as the damage was so wide, really the wood of the vines also had damage so much care was needed to prune. There’s not much but the vintage is magnifique – a nice mix of 16 and 15 – the structure of 15 but the fruit of 16 and a little less alcohol too than in 2015. The vintage was quite dry apart from the brutal hail and then 40 mm of rain about 10 days before the harvest – which made the harvest I think. In the end 26 hl/ha, so about 60% of a normal volume, and that’s three years in a row, hence, the wines are sold-out.”
A fine range – the two contract purchase wines were delicious – with pretty labels and red-wax tops.
2017 Morgon La Voûtre St.Vincent
From 5 hectares of vines in the climat Doubie and vines in the direction of Fleurie. Average 60-year-old vines, usually the first to be harvested. Made with a 14 day maceration in cement tanks, with some destemming for this cuvée since 2008.
Hmm not a nose of power, rather with a width of very attractive red fruits – ooh that’s good! Round, elegant, slightly saline, mineral and graphite at the base. Ooh a great line to finish too. Classy wine.
2017 Morgon Corcelettes
A contract purchase. Vines on granite with a relatively high altitude.
More depth of aroma, more concentration to the aroma but a similar register of inviting red fruits. More depth to the texture, an extra richness of flavour, the mid-palate flavours of the last turned up to 11. A little extra perfume to the finishing salinity.
2017 Morgon Montpelains
A new cuvée but in the domaine for a long time, was made in 2005 too but is normally in the St.Vincent – some clay here so a little like Javernières
A touch more colour. An extra airy freshness to the nose – almost a graphite notre too. Wider,more vibrant and floral, a little more tannin at the base – but here is intensity and energy – supple and beautifully shaped in the middle – this I love.
East-facing bottom of Cote du Py. A different soil, so separated. There’s more clay here, and the grapes are a little slower maturing – here needs more time.
Deep a little menthol to this hyper-attractive, plump fruit. Less fat, more juicy, structured too, growing in intensity, wide – ooh – but to wait a little time for. Great wine a weight of finishing persistence.
90-year-old vines. Almost all destemmed as this was hit by the hail.
Deep colour. Big, round – a cushioned invitation – such beautiful but full-fruited aroma. Mouth-filling, with weight, concentration but drive too – there is energy here – melting and intense. Power and richness, balanced by the energy. Slowly fading. That is a yes!
2017 Morgon Javernières Les Impenitents
A black sheep on the label. This second cuvée of Javernières is made from a much older parcel of vines ‘Les Impenitents’ – more than 100 years-old vines.
Round again, dark fruit and mineral – graphite style again – a floral that floats high above. Supple, saline, really a depth of concentration and fine texture to match the base of fine tannin – if you choose to search for it. Maybe even better than excellent!