Tasted in Liergues with Didier Falque, 12 February 2018.
Cave Cooperative Oedoria Liergues
168 Rue du Beaujolais
Tel: +33 4 74 71 48 08
This cave cooperative was formed in 2009 by the fusing together of the Cave Cooperative de Liergues (established 1929) and the Cave Cooperative de Theizé (established in 1961). This single entity is now responsible for 230 members making wine from 860 hectares of vines – they had a turnover of €10 million in 2017. There are Oedoria-branded shops in Létra, Liergues and Theizé. Principally, the production is red Beaujolais, though there’s some white and rosé too – in fact this cave is the biggest single producer of Beaujolais Rosé. Whilst there is a tiny amount of Morgon produced here, there is also quite a large production of cremant, made entirely on this site. It is only Oedoria and Jean Loron who fully produce their cremant.
Oedoria commercialises 12-15% of its production in bottle – some 650 k bottles – the rest is sold in bulk to négociants. As well as the passing trade from their shops, a significant amount of wine is sold to the restaurant trade, very little ends up on the shelves of supermarkets. There is some export from here, but it is early days for that and the volumes are modest.
The cuverie in Liergues is classic old co-operative with its large cement tanks – used to finish the fermentations, some having temperature regulation. The tanks are individually named after the founders of the cave, though it’s not just ‘old’ – there were new presses bought for here in 2016.
As for 2016 Didier comments that “Here in the south of the Beaujolais we were quite frosted in 2016 – it’s the smallest harvest that we’ve seen for 25 years – smaller than 2003. We made about 60% of normal our usual volume.”
Rather a modest range of wines, but also the wines are rather cheap. Flavours only becoming really interesting with their top range of cuvées ‘Accord Majoeur’ – and these will only cost you around €6 – so there is much value.
2016 Atout Coeur (mid-range wines) Bourgogne Blanc Les Pierres Dorées
About 60% elevage in barrel, principally from the Pierres Dorées, not a large production here.
Plenty of aromatic volume, some sweetness and rather a lot of vanilla oak. In the mouth this is better, more mineral, clean and open, still strongly oaked but less overtly than the nose.
2016 Instant Bonoeur (the cheapest label) Beaujolais Blanc
Similar vine location but with extra granite – all tank elevage
A little more aromatic impact – no oak – slightly cheesy reduction. Supple, concentrated, quite silky – a width of flavour. Pretty standard Beaujolais Blanc – the finish is the best part.
2016 Instant Bonoeur, Beaujolais
‘It changes its register becoming quite pinot in only about 3 years.’
Bright, fresh fruity. Open, plenty of flavour and energy, some depth of earthy minerality – a good finish.
2016 Atout Coeur, Beaujolais l’Exception
The word Beaujolais can only seen on the back label – also all tank elevage. ‘This wine is about the style of vinification and general origin – not ‘vins de terroir’ that follow’
Wider and deeper nose this plenty of freshness. Good volume, more depth of flavour and intensity of flavour. A nice breadth in the finish, still with some tannin – wait 12 months – this is decent enough.
2016 Accord Majoeur (top level) Beaujolais Rouge VV
Parcel selection, vines older than 30 years. Longer vinification 8-12 days with remontage and some pigeage.
Not the widest nose but there is depth and quite an attractive fruit. More mouth-filling, good texture, nice points of complexity – this has much complexity and really attractive fresh flavour. This is very good.
2016 Accord Majoeur Coteaux Bourguignone Cuvée Privilège
Some tank and some barrel, this €6, the last €6.20
A little extra depth and weight to the aromas, accented with pretty high-toned fruit. Supple, weighted, depth of flavour with excellently fine tannin, maybe the only place I can see the oak. This is a lovely, tasty, wine.
2016 Moulin à Vent Les Signatures de Terroir
A rather modest nose but with a good width. Quite a good weight of flavour, the texture is not bad either. The concentration is relatively modest vs a domaine but the wine has direction and is very tasty, holding very well in the finish. Good wine
2016 Morgon Côte de Py
Nice label, and no extraneous cuvee name additions.
Unlike the width of the last wine, this is more about depth of aroma. Sleek, direct, great mouth-feel, the fruit flavours very direct and primary – only slowly melting over the palate. This is a wine to wait for. Good wine.
Crémant de Bourgogne Rubis
Made with a pinot base.
A sweetness on the nose – sweet, quince style fruit. Lots of bubble but not harsh, slowly melting flavour over the palate – easy but very tasty. No rigour which I often find in blanc de noir. Good wine!
2015 Crémant de Bourgogne Cuvée Claude Denis
Chardonnay – dosage 5-6 grams.
Almost a little green tinge to the colour (in this light!) a wider nose, more sweet mirabelle fruit. More direct, more structured, melting flavour. Good purity of flavour. Less easy than the last – but altogether more interesting. Very tasty!
Crémant de Bourgogne Cuvée OR – Cuvée Speciale
30 month aging sur lattes, zero dosage, very small amount of barrel elevage included in the blend.
Also a very young and fresh looking colour. A more complex nose, fine and pure. The bubbles are little aggressive to start, a subtle asparagus in the middle but a nicely layered flavour, in fact a delicious finishing complexity – beautiful wine here in the finish. Definitely a wine I would carafe to tame the bubbles right now. This is a wine that I’d buy.