Tasted at home in Switzerland, 26 February 2018, but following a short chat with Eric Janin, 21 February 2018.
Domaine Paul Janin & Fils
Tel: +33 3 85 35 52 80
There was an error setting up this appointment, but by chance I anyway caught up with Eric for just a few minutes, and was able to get hold of some samples – so all was not lost – unlike almost all Eric’s 2016 and 2017 harvests. “The 24th June 2016 and 10 July 2017 sealed the history of the two vintages. Never in the memory of vignerons was there such a powerful storm – 80% of the harvest was taken in 2016. History repeated in 2017.”
Eric was able to rescue just 13 hectolitres/hectare from the hail in 2016. Given that he rarely produces more than 35 hl/ha, then we can say that he was still able to produce about 1/3 the volume of a normal vintage – not too bad compared to some other producers.
The domaine’s Moulin à Vent Cuvée Les Greneriers was lost in 2016.
Given the circumstances of the vintage here, this is a great result. The white is already drinking quite well, and both reds you should wait for.
2016 Beaujolais Villages Blanc Argiles
Vines planted in 2006, in a clay soil in Romaneche-Thorins – 49 hl/ha in 2016
Oof, that’s a deep and citrussy nose – very inviting. Mineral, citrus fruit with a growing intensity – becoming a little more mineral and structured in the middle but never to an extent where I would say rigour! This is easy in the mouth and with sufficient brightness and sucrosity to hold interest. Very good!
2016 Moulin à Vent Les Vignes Tremblay
A blend of two lieu-dits in 2016 – Le Tremblay and Greneriers. But only 10 hl/ha was produced due to the hail. Normally there’s a little destemming to provide some juice, 12-13 days of cuvaison, followed by 11 months of elevage.
A nose with profound depth – coupled to great width too – complex, dark fruited, a suggestion of pyrazine and warm, faint spice – absolutely inviting. Plenty of volume in the mouth – silky texture that slowly becomes more velvet as the tannin rises from the impressive depth. A little bitter-chocolate-style to the finishing flavours and tannin. Broad, complex and rather young – you will need to wait for the last flavours to soften and open – but super for all that. Have 1-2 years of patience.
An even smaller return of just 8hl/ha from these old vines – the oldest over 100 years old, bought by Eric’s grand-mother in 1937 – the climat is Clos du Tremblay. Also about 11 months elevage – exactly the same for both wines – all elevage in stainless-steel – ‘Really the difference is the terroir.’
The nose is as deep as the last, missing the faint pyrazine notes and adding just a little extra sweetness. Mouth-filling, more directly velvet-textured, layered, with waves of primary but deliciously focused fruit flavour. This is great, and whilst it has much less of the finishing bitters, it will need just as long to start showing its complexity. Really excellent, concentrated wine. Again to wait for…