Tasted almost in Villé-Morgon with Fabien Collonge, 20 February 2018.
Fabien Collonge
Le Truges
69910 Villé Morgon
Tel: +33 6 30 02 63 18
www.fabien-collonge.com
Fabien on 2017:
“I think it’s going to be a super vintage – an early vintage, at least a couple of weeks early but lovely weather – we started at the end of August but in some parcels we needed to wait as there was some blockage. It was between the 10th and 15th that we finished as we waited for a little while after a helpful rain. The year had some hail again plus a lack of juice from the dryness, but there was potentially a very big crop before that. So in the end it was two-thirds of a normal crop in Morgon and one-third in Chiroubles, so roughly a little more than 50% yield. The acidities are good and that’s super when you consider that the wines were 13-14° natural!”
Fabien on 2016:
“We were twice hailed, so lost a lot, perhaps half in the first hail, then again. We probably lost 70% in Chiroubles – Morgon was less bad. The storm was at the time of grape formation, so it wasn’t about quality, but certainly about quantity. The wines are more fruit forward after 2015, and more Beaujolais too. It was an average harvesting date. There were two big storms in Chiroubles though, fortunately, they were early in the season so the grapes that remained were in a great condition – a shame that we lost 80% there though! So in the end it was another harvest of about 50% in the crus – I make some nouveau Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages and there was a correct yield there. But we have a great run of vintages from a quality perspective from 2015-2017…
“The market for the wines is good, my biggest personal problem is only that I seem to be selling the wines too early – but with so many short-volume vintages that’s no surprise, I suppose.”
The wines…
Excellent wines – as every year that I’ve visited…
2016 Chiroubles l’Aurore des Côtes
Ooh that’s deep nose, faintly licoriced in the dark fruit. Lovely freshness – this will be very easy to drink – direct, with a beautiful fresh line. I love the open and fresh personality here – good intensity too – this is already delicious wine! A little mineral finishing but without rigour. Excellent!
2016 Morgon
From Corcelettes and a smaller part next to Doubie contributing about 20% of the whole
More composed but also more depth of aroma – dark fruit again, no licorice this time – very attractive! Wide, more concentrated width, but melting at the sides. A hint saline, more (very fine) tannin – layered in the middle and finish. The salinity more pronounced in the finish, mixed with smaller floral references. Beautiful. Wait a little, but this is excellent!
‘A small vintage in volume, a big vintage in quality – hyper-concentrated, lots of sugar. A grand millésime de garde – references are 2009, 2005… Harvested 1st September, destemmed about 40% which allows me to lengthen the cuvaison while avoiding anything vegetal from the stems. The lieu-dit is called Côte Roti with a direct south-facing exposure.‘
Fresh, complex, floral but also profound. Wide, still excellent freshness, layered, beautiful flavour – just great freshness – it’s the altitude of these vines – 350-400m – just a great wine. Bravo!
2013 Chiroubles l’Aurore des Côtes
Deep colour. Already a hint of maturity to the dark-fruited nose. Supple, nice volume, fresh, mineral, and with a good line. The tannin still a little forward and showing a little finishing minerality. The last notes in the finish are open and delicious – my favourite part.