Tasted in Volnay with Pascale Rossignol, 04 February 2016.
Rue de la cave
Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 95
Domaine Sainson-Rossignol is the estate of Claude Sainson, Pascale Rossignol and their son Emmanuel. Plaques at the door celebrate not just the Sainson-Rossignol name, but also ‘Rossignol-Duperret.’ Pascale notes that the domaine was begun by her great-grandfather, she took it on from her father – Pascale says that, in the village, she’s the only lady producer of Volnay, also working all the vines herself – 8 hectares of vines.
There are a range of cuvées here, much more regionals than villages and 1er Crus. In Volnay, despite 3 cuvées, they have no 1er Crus.
Pascale explains “The domaine is ‘lutte raisonnée’ like most others in Volnay, embracing the culture of the soil, ploughing, and only using treatments when required.
“Strong triage at the vines, some years without doing another triage at the domaine, others there will be more triage at the domaine – but we have a very traditional approach, mainly using whole clusters here – just like my father did it! Of-course you can’t do that every year, for instance, in 2012 and 2014 we were obliged to do plenty of destemming because of the hail – but in 2015, of-course there was no destemming needed.
“We do less than 10 days of cuvaison to minimise astringency, followed by up to 16 months of barrel elevage with a maximum of 25% new oak. The 2014s were bottled last week.”
The domaine’s main market is France, they show (& sell!) their wine in various wine markets across France.
It’s a long elevage here so we looked at the 2011s – this is the current vintage for sale – this is the domaine’s commercial philosophy due to their use of whole clusters. Perhaps 2011 is not the best showcase for this producer, but there is still some interest here…
From bottom of Volnay about 2 hectares of vines there.
Medium colour. A deep nose with a good red fruit and an a little vintage pyrazine – but on a modest level – give this time and there is a really fine red-fruited aromatic. The wine is supple in the mouth, some peanut flavour here – but no hard edges, no dryness and a good core of sweet fruit. This seems a good Bourgogne with quite a good length too
From various parcel between the two roads at the bottom of Volnay.
A more floral nose, pyrazine again but not harsh. More weight of flavour, a little peanut again to start, more tannin that offers a base of texture but hardly any dryness. Lovely mid-palate flavour width and in the finish too – this is really tasty here – impressive finishing, even a reprise! This really lightens up on the nose with a few minutes in the glass – an almost elegant red fruit being deployed.
2011 Volnay VV
2 small parcels Grands Poisots, between 65-80, planted by grandfather Francois Rossignol (Pascale’s father is Yves Rossignol.) ‘Normally the wine that’s first to be ready and easiest to drink’
Starts a little narrower at the top, more depth and weight of depth to nose, again accented with pyrazine. Wider, more weight, good texture with a little growing tannin. There’s good flavour dimension here too – and no peanut, only a suggestion of pyrazine – in the context of 2011 a concentrated and impressive wine – but a wine to wait for of course! Also a very fine finish, long too with a certain concentration, though today the finish of the ‘basic’ volnay is prettier. Here the nose remains relatively stable, adding a subtle but welcome floral dimension.
2011 Volnay Cuvée Jules
Two little vines near the Chapelle – One of 40 years other between 25-30. A little more structured, and with a little more new oak. ‘Jules is my little son’ says Pascale!
Wide and higher-toned, more obvious pyrazine here to start with. Rounder in the mouth, fuller, more peanut, but plenty of dimensions of flavour, indeed waves of flavour. A little more dryness of finishing tannin but side-by-side with good waves of flavour. The flavour holds also rather long, faintly with tannin too. An extra depth of fruit is delivered low down, a bass note that is half red, half orange fruit – one that is actually quite inviting!