Tasted with Julien Mure in Volnay, 10 February 2016.
Domaine Roland Mure
15 Rue de Mont
Tel: +33 3 80 21 63 63
There are some domaines in Volnay that you really wish would commercialise more of their own wine – Domaine Roland Mure would certainly be in my list – that said, there may be some négoce with long faces if that happened!
This domaine’s vines are almost equally split between Volnay and Pommard – reflecting perfectly Julien’s grandmother who came from Pommard and his grandfather who came from Volnay. Julien is the fifth generation at this family domaine, his father Roland the fourth. The domaine has about 8.5 hectares of vines, and Julien in his own right has almost 1.5 – so the combination is almost 10 hectares.
The vines of the domaine are worked in the method of ‘raisonée’ – ‘not quite Bio‘ but like many, they reserve the right to treat with something if necessary – “There are no herbicides, and the vines here have for the last 40 or 50 years always been ploughed.” Then there is the harvest; almost half of their production is sold directly in grapes. Even the wine that remains in barrel is largely going to be sold in bulk. Julien explains “Selling in bottle is really a different metier, we concentrate on our vines, commercialising only about 4-5,000 bottles per year.” And it’s interesting to see the old equipment for labeling and fixing the capsules – all by the single bottle, by hand.
Triage is done at the vines, grapes collected in 25-30 kg bins. All the grapes are then destemmed, followed by a cool maceration. There follows 12-18 month elevage, with rackings.
The wines.. .
Because most is sold in bulk, the 2014s weren’t available to taste, but we looked in on a couple of 2015s and a wine with a little more bottle age.
This villages is a blend of about 10 parcels, over 1 hectare of vines that include Sur Roche at the top of the hill, some mid-slope Lurets and the rest in the bottom of the slope. A great round range.
Wow fruit, and flowers too – racked last week. Bright, fabulous acidity, ‘really a perfect vintage in the vines, just a shame the quantity is so low.’ A superb showing today!
2015 Volnay 1er Les Santenots
From Santenots du Bas near the vines of Nico Rossignol. Only 20 year-old vines.
Deep, round, complex, just a faint reduction – this smells super. Bigger, with more dimension, fresh fruit, fresh acidity. Just great. Long finishing on dry extract, finely textured – great.
The domaine has also 1er Crus Ormeau, and Lurets. They had a parcel of Caillerets too, but that was sold to d’Angerville in 2013.
2009 Volnay 1er Santenots
Deep and complex, I’m almost surprised by this – there’s very Little development. Good freshness, a little direct but melting flavour on either side of this line of flavour. This is quite tasty and really not ready, drinkable as it is. Really starts to add a nice floral note to the nose too. You wouldn’t guess 09 as this is really very mineral, and a little saline too.