Tasted in Volnay with Florence and Thierry Poulleau, 02 February 2016.
Domaine Poulleau Père & Fils
7 Rue du Pied de la Vallée
Tel: +33 3 80 21 26 52
This domaine is hidden in a part neglected corner of Volnay – très discreet!
Florence et Thierry Poulleau are the third generation of this domaine, which was brought to life in the 1960s Thierry’s grandfather, Gaston. It’s a 7.3 hectare domaine , 3.3 in Côte de Beaune from the mother’s side in Aloxe-Corton. Thierry saying that his grandparents actually lived in Pousse d’Or – but downstairs! Not so long ago, the domaine was even larger, but some Volnay plus Volnay Vieilles Vignes was on metayage and it’s now gone back to owner’s family.
The team characterise their work as ‘raisonnée,’ using no systematic treatments. Since 2001 they have used a triage table, since 2006 a ‘better’ destemmer – they always destem 100% – “We try to keep as much the whole grapes as possible.” The fermentations are mainly done in concrete tanks.
50% of the produce is exported and about 10% sold to personal callers – about 20% of production is still sold in bulk to the négoce.
There’s also a little Chanlins 1er Cru.
I recognised the label used here, but couldn’t bring to mind any previous bottles. These were tasty wines!
Assembled from the produce of vines in Poisots, Echardes, Cros Martin, Beau Regard, Paux Bois. Roughly 0.12-0.15 hectares per parcel. The total is 0.76 hectares.
Medium, medium-plus colour. Rather tight nose, but there are some pretty red fruit notes escaping the glass. Nice in the mouth, there’s volume, fine red fruit and complexity – this is tasty wine – just a little tannin that needs to quieten – but tasty wine indeed. A hint steely in the finish – but I like it!
A faintly spiced and perfumed nose, though also rather tight; there’s a very slowly growing red fruit note. More direct, with a little tannin at the back of the mouth – some intensity and complexity too. There’s super finishing flavour – clearly a much more acid-led wine than the 2014, but again, a well-made tasty wine. Super!
2014 Volnay 1er Chanlis
About 0.17 hectares of older vines, planted in the 1950s. This was bottled in October.
Wide, inviting, growing complexity – almost a cushioned red fruit. Bigger in the mouth, more dimensions of flavour. Fine energy like the 2013 villages, but with much more padding. There’s a modest oak in the mid-palate that should soon balance out, but it’s more textural than a flavour. Big, layered, tasty wine. Very tasty – super wine!
2011 Volnay Vieilles-Vignes
Like the ‘standard‘ villages this is also fruit from a mix of parcels; close to 80 years old vines. 2011 was the first year for that cuvée – unfortunately after that, it was mainly hailed.
Wide, a little complex, even a little development – interesting. The nose slowly adds a little spice. Round, nicely textured, mouth-filling flavour. This tastes a hint like an 11 even if it doesn’t smell like one – but I like it’s subtle complexity, though this is no flamboyant Volnay. A little tannin in the finish but it’s a long-flavoured finish too.