Tasted with Guillaume Perrin in Volnay, 09 February 2016.
Domaine Marie-Christine et Vincent Perrin
8 Rue Saint-Etienne
Tel: +33 3 80 21 61 80
The family name has been in Volnay since 1445.
This family was mainly involved in farming though the domaine was begun by Guillaume’s grandfather, Michel, who had half vines and half general agriculture. There were 2-3 hectares of vines in the 1960s with Bourgogne vines plus Volnay and Pommard labels.
Guillaume’s father, Vincent, started working with wine with his wife, Marie-Christine, in 1987 – they were just 22 years-old. In 2000 they took on the domaine from Michel and Thérèse Perrin. The domaine now stands at 9 hectares – a mix of domaine and fermage parcels coming from uncles and aunts…
25-30,000 bottles are currently produced – it could easily be 60,000 but there’s no extra space, so some is sold to négociants. They work various regional appellations plus St.Romain Combes Bazin, Meursault l’Ormeau, Monthelie Soucours, Volnay ‘Cuvée Marie,’ Pommard Chanlins (villages), plus Volnays Mitans, Carelles sous la Chapelle and their monopole 1er cru Gigotte. They also have ‘Le Gigotte’ villages, so sell some of that to négoce.
Guillaume says that they use “A minimum of treatments, or lutte raisonée if you prefer. It’s a team of 4 that do the work, including two vineyard hands. We triage in the vines – always the same harvest team – anyway, there’s not really much place for that at the domaine. We destem before two weeks of cuvaison – though the grapes were never destemmed at the time of my Grandfather – some pigeage and remontage – the relative balance depending on the vintage. One year in barrel follows, with 10-15% new oak. Our whites have both fermentations in barrel. The amount of new oak we use remains constant, only the origin of oak is likely to change.”
There are reds in the cuverie in Volnay, but there’s no space for the whites, so those, labelling and storage are off-site.
The domaine’s biggest sales are to visitors and restaurants.
This looks like a good address for interesting, off-the beaten track Volnays!
2013 Volnay Cuvée Marie
From 2 lieu-dits, En Vaut and Famines, so one high and one low. About 1 hectares worth of 40-50 year-old vines.
The nose is just a little tight, slowly opening with a modest red fruit and flowers. Supple, mouth-watering flavour, a little herby but fine energy and flavour dimension. Not the ripest for sure but long and interesting and this will only get better in the medium term. Tasty, energetic wine. The last drops in the glass are much more aromatically attractive too.
2012 Volnay 1er Gigotte (Monopole)
6-7 Ouvrées between Ormeau and Carelles
A little deeper colour, the nose too, with a little opening reduction – becoming more and more complex, layered even, this is super inviting. Bigger, more concentrated, great texture, a great weight of flavour here, a suggestion of salinity too. Really great length – super.