Tasted in Volnay with Patrick Landanger, 02 February 2016.
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or
8 Rue de la Chapelle
Tel: +33 3 80 21 24 03
This domaine is in the fortunate position to own only 1er crus in Volnay – so no villages or regional-designated cuvées.
Here is my previous profile of the domaine.
I was really, really happy with this tasting!
For a long time I’ve been critical of the wines from here, because regardless of the ‘no-expense-spared’ approach at the domaine – there are 3 triages here, including an optical one – the young wines had, for a long time, been smothered in a toasty oak aroma, rendering them, for me, unrecogonisably Burgundy, never mind Chambolle or Volnay! I saw some improvements with the higher-level 2011s; those young 1er crus smelled lovely, but at that time, the villages wines still smelled only of oak.
For the 2015s, Patrick is even experimenting with amphora (Caillerets in multiple 800 litre vessels) “I’m slowly trying to reduce the oak – there is much less now than before” And it shows on the aromas of these 2014s; there’s a faint spice, still, but only that.
There was about a 50% lower harvest here in 2014. Everything was in tank when I visited, waiting for the 26 February ’for the moon’ to begin bottling. Of-course the domaine has today, fine parcels in Chambolle and Corton but for this tasting I concentrated only on their Volnays.
2014 Volnay 1er Caillerets
A little over 2 hectares are owned, next to Champans, vines surrounded by those of Bouchard Père.
Quite deep coloured. Fresh, wide, an almost inky depth. Great mouth-feel; a little tannin, if not particularly grainy – but great complexity from the mid-palate onward – really seems to get ever more complex over the palate in the finish. Super wine!
2014 Volnay 1er Clos de la Bousse d’Or
2 hectares of vines, producing a wine that Patrick describes as ‘Really one of the parcels that is most feminine in Volnay.’
Deep colour. Deep, faintly mineral, slightly fume nose. Very much more silky, wide, and a little saline – wide and beautifully presented in the finish too – really fine finishing. Beautiful wine!
0.8 hectares of vines that actually sit within the walls of the domaine. ‘Sloped, with notes of soil and sun – it reminds me more of a Pommard style wine than a Volnay’ says Patrick.
Dark and deep, an nice vibration to the nose – slowly releasing flowers – yup, I definitely want to taste this! Big in the mouth, layered, mouth-watering, good energy – darkly fruited. Very fine – I love it.
From the other (southern) side of Caillerets, below Monthelie and the Clos des Chênes. 2,4 hectares of vines. Patrick explains that ‘The soil is different here, plus the vines are older in this Clos, some dating from the time it was also owned by the duvault blochets – so over 80 years old. This stays a Volnay but with more richness and power vs our other cuvée.’
Deep colour. Darker-fruited but alive and inviting. Fuller and more layered, with waves of flavour – a hint of minerality, growing mid-palate complexity. Wide and long, very long. Really a great wine – a pleasure to taste.