Tasted with Romain Poirrotte in Volnay, 03 February 2016.
Domaine Jean Vaudoisey
6 Rue du Pied de la Vallée
21190 Volnay
Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 59
Romain Poirrotte is the new, super-fresh face of this old Volnay domaine.
Jean Vaudoisey is Romain’s grandfather and Romain, the 6th generation of this side of the family (since 1806) has taken on this 7 hectare family domaine from the 2015 vintage – so there are no 2014s here to taste – grandfather Jean has taken those 2014s into his dotage. Romain’s 7 hectares, include regional wines, Volnay, Volnay 1er Cru, Pommard, and a little Meursault too; Meursault that’s sited next to Santenots close to Meursault’s camping place.
Romain explains that he’s often worked with his grandfather and thought it fitting that the domaine stays with his name – Jean Vaudoisey.
Triage is in the vines and again afterwards at the domaine, then all destemmed. Romain said the first thing he did was to buy a new pneumatic press, as it was sure to make a big difference! Romain hopes some of the former clientele of his grandfather will remain, but expects it won’t be so difficult to sell his wines – at least the 2015s that so many people are talking about! Given the quality of the wines I tasted, that seems a given, though Romain notes that the quantity, even in 2015, is rather low after the preceeding hailed vintages.
The wines…
I came away with a strong positive impression from Romain, not just his demeanor but also a very fine set of 2015s too.
2015 Bourgogne
Bourgogne is a mix of fruit mainly from the commune of Volnay mainly, plus little Pommard fruit too…
A super-deep colour, about 10-15% new oak, and here tasted from a new barrel. There’s a hint of oak spice. Great texture and volume – an undertow of very modest tannin, freshness and complexity here – real pinot fruit with freshness. Impressive Bourgogne for sure. A hint of flowers and tannin in the finish – wow Bourgogne!
2015 Volnay
From 6 or 7 parcels, some of which, in future vintages, may be separated into discreet cuvées. This a mix of high and low parcels from around the village. Tasted from a new barrel:
Round, deep, red-fruited aromas. Energy, dimension, layers, minerality. A long line of fresh finishing flavour. Bravo!
2015 Volnay 1er Mitans
The vines are sited behind the big red house that’s on your left-hand side before the old Chapelle – direction Meursault..
Wide, almost textured aromas, understated but of fresh fruit. A fine volume in the mouth, a certain salinity, complex, more a mass today than layered but fresh and fine. The last drops in the glass are a little floral too. Super!