Tasted in Volnay with Thiébault Huber, 05 February 2016.
3 rue de la Cave
Tel :+33 3 80 21 64 37
Thiébault is the outgoing head of the growers syndicate of Volnay – it was he who helped me put this list of producer visits together. I’m sure he’s not the outgoing syndicate head just because he’s completing the construction of a new cuverie – not in Volnay!
You can find most of Thiébault’s and the Huber-Verdereau domaine’s history in my previous profile.
Thiébault has 9 hectares of vines that are spread across 6 villages, but mainly in Volnay and Pommard. The vines have been managed in Bio since 2001, and Biodynamic (Demeter) since 2005.
Thiébault says that there’s a certain richness to the 2014s that really wasn’t there before the malos. This is a fine set of wines – a very good address – hopefully also when he moves to his new address!
Thiébault has 4 different Volnays, 3 from domaine vines, and a Clos des Chênes 1er Cru from bought-in grapes:
From 5 parcels, most with clay soil at the bottom of the slope, plus a little from Sur Roche, above the village, with old vines but a small rendement. 100% destemmed, no new oak, bottled in December.
Really a fine and round perfume – flowers and fruit, never heavy. Fresh, great acidity, width of saline edged flavour. A super peak of mid-palate flavour here that very slowly lingers. Direct and tasty in style!
2014 Volnay Robardelles
From the villages section below the 1er Cru part, next to Santenots, planted in a 42 year-old massalle selection of 0.67 hectares. All destemmed here in 2014… 20% new oak, but it was just one barrel.A couple of pigeages for the first 2 days, just to ensure all is mixed, but no more. Like the last wine, it was bottled in December. Half of the potential crop was lost in this vintage.
More intense, deep red fruit more overt. A little more lush and layered, a more overt salinity here, really opens very wide in the finish – at the start perhaps a little less expressive but a great finish that’s more mineral than fruit!
2014 Volnay 1er Fremiers
Vines next to those of Domaine Joseph Voillot, 0.11 Hectares. Bottled 2 days ago. One barrel of 300 litres in this vintage, so necessarily 100% new oak. ‘A terroir of ‘velour’ lots of stones and red fruit, very sunny, almost always the earliest part to harvest.’
Deep and complex nose – much prettier I think than the Robardelles today as it’s a little less bulky. Lithe, no fat, flowing flavour, good complexity, Long and wide with yet again a lovely saline finish.
These are bought grapes, the vines planted in really white soil with more slope turning a little more to the south, the grower works in Bio. Only one barrel of 2 years old – this is the barrel’s third vintage. Bottled end of December. Normally there would be more but given the hail and a section being replanted…
A hint more smoky, but mineral also – red fruited muscle – but very fine. Wide, mouth-filling with a richness of flavour – but not texture. This is silky but has no fat – rather an intensity and a complexity – it stands out for the small waves of finishing flavour. Just a super-long, super packaged wine – bravo!