Tasted in Volnay, 02 February with Thierry Glantenay.
Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay
3 rue Vaut
Tel: +33 3 80 21 62 20
Thierry is the incoming head of the growers syndicate of Volnay, taking on the role from Thiebault Huber. Thierry took over from his father just over 10 years ago at a time when most of the production was sold to négociants. Thierry wanted to commercialise the production himself.
This is a family domaine, coming through the line of father and grandfather to Thierry – the family having over 500 years of history with the vines in Volnay. It was Thierry’s grandfather who really grew the exploitation, also buying vines in Pommard and Puligny. Today the domaine covers 7 hectares and 10 appellations from 16 different parcels. The domaine’s bourgognes also sit in the bottom of the Volnay commune – 3 parcels that are assembled.
The Volnay villages, is assembled from parcels in Grands Poisots, Lurets, Ormeau. Their four 1ers crus are Brouillards, Santenots, Clos des Chênes and Caillerets…
Thierry does 2 triages, collecting the grapes in 15kg cases. “It’s an old team who know what to do,” says Thierry. Back at the domaine there’s a triage table plus a vibrating table. The most part of the production is destemmed, though up to 30% whole clusters may be retained for the Caillerets, sometimes the Clos des Chênes too.
Thierry doesn’t practise racking, and uses no pumps when assembling, also choosing to bottle by gravity, without fining or filtering.
The domaine’s biggest sales are export. About 20% stays with restaurant clients.
Of the 2014s, only the Bourgogne and village Volnay are bottled so far.
This is a very fine address – you can buy blind without concern…
The grapes from the various parcels are assembled, pre-fermentation, into one big tank. The average vine age here is 50. Still the volumes have spanned only 13-18 hl/ha between 2012 and 2014.
Ooh – that’s a beautiful round, deep, dark red fruit, faintly floral too – gorgeous. Quite large in the mouth, intense and concentrated rather than rich. A nicely structural wine, with super finishing flavour. This has the potential to be brilliant.
2014 Volnay 1er Brouillards
Not many make this 1er Cru as the Glantenays have the largest portion of this vineyard. ‘Brouillards doesn’t always have the most complexity but it’s a concentrated masculine wine. But usually classed as an entry-wine for 1ers.’ A little more than 1 ha owned here, with an average vine age of 60.
Deep nose, almost silky dark fruit. Rounder in the mouth a hint more sucrosity, but also salinity – a direct line of fresh flavour. Very yum!
Santenots du Bas, under the Clos des Santenots of Prieur. In the context of the domaine’s other vines, ‘only’ about 25-year-old vines here.
Really floral fruit – strikingly so. Round, lithe, growing intensity – line and length – super length. A direct and flavourful wine, fresh and almost exciting in the finish. Wines of line here not roundness and richness.
2014 Volnay 1er Caillerets
Normally 3 barrels; the last years it has been 1 or 0 – this year 1! These vines are next to the Clos des 60 Ouvrées, but here only 4 ouvrées! ‘For me, really one of the greatest terroirs of Volnay.’ 30% wc for this particular wine.
A wide and pretty nose, perhaps a little tight, but attractive all the same – delicate/elegant. Wide, fabulous layering of fresh, bright, slightly saline sweet fruit flavour. Super texture too. A really strong and persistent finishing note. A beauty.
2014 Volnay 1er Clos des Chênes
Tasted after Caillerets as it is a powerful wine. One parcel near Lafon and the Château Meursault, right in the middle of the appellation. 0.5 ha, a mix of old (80 years old) vines and 15 years old. Two thirds the latter.
Delicate, round, very fine dark red fruit. Richer, weightier – a wine of volume – like the others a here a fine core of freshness and an accent of salinity. Layered flavour. Less overtly complex but a big wine. Excellent.
This is cold, it needs coaxing from the glass, but this is wide and really beautifully complex. Big, mouth-filling wine, a certain minerality and energy – eventually a little richness of texture and flavour. Super, super wine of round power, yet complexity too. What a super baby. Super in the mouth, really fabulous. Bravo!