All the following wines tasted with Anne Parent in Pommard 17.02.2014.
Anne Parent on 2012: They lost 55% of the crop, Pommard Noizons was a complete write-off.
“Depending on parcels, some had coulure and more than 60% was lost. Cut some bunches and leaves after the hail but ‘practically perfect’ weather in August/September – sun, a drying wind and not too hot – meant that the grapes were in great shape so triage was less than 5% at harvest time.
“Don’t be too late with the white I thought; normally I don’t have to pick too early, but the sugar and acidity came together quite early so I’m happy I picked it first.
I said that after the hail in 2012 I noted quite a bit of damage to the wood of the vines, and asked if that was causing any problems. “We normally prune ‘Cordon-Royat’ but have had to go back to ‘Guyot’ (the baguette) because of the damage to wooden parts of the vine. We will go back once the wood is replenished.”
On 2013: Lost 58% of the crop.
Pricing: Anne’s strategy is to increase with 2012 vintage, but hold the pricing steady for 2013. It’s a not inconsiderable increase of 15-30% depending on the appellation, but Anne believes that this is easier to digest than 10-15% in each vintage. The main driver, is of-course lack of wine, though she hopes to make up the still considerable shortfall by releasing some small stocks of older vintages.
There is a hint of reduction with many of these wines which makes them hard to judge aromatically and certainly skews your (my) impression of the fruit in a darker direction; that said, (and Bourgogne aside) they not racked and that will deal with this note. Overall there is depth balance and all the concentration of the vintage here…
2012 Bourgogne Rouge
A blend of vineyards close to Pommard and Volnay. This wine has been racked from old oak in January, and will be bottled in March.
Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is wide but shows a few sulfur hints from the assemblage. A little CO2 so the palate is difficult to quantify; but the fruit is fine as seems the balance, the concentration is really good.
2012 Ladoix 1er Cru La Corvée
Racked from oak (30% new) 5-6 weeks ago, to be bottled in March/April.
The aromatic is much deeper here. Fine depth and concentration – great acidity. I find a very impressive intensity of fruit flavour in the mid-palate.
2012 Beaune 1er cru Les Epenottes
This wine is still in barrel – 40% new oak – and will be racked next week.
The nose is deep but faintly reduced. There’s a little astringency to the tannin, but the fruit is beautiful and rather intense too – together with the acidity it forces you to swallow or spit! Will be super.
2012 Pommard La Croix Blanche
This wine is still in barrel – 45% new oak.
The nose has a dark, faintly reductive personality but becomes airier and delivers a higher-toned red fruit with swirling. Round, with quite lovely texture – there’s plenty of supple structure and a sweetness of fruit in the finish. Now we’re talking!!
2012 Pommard 1er Cru Les Argillières
This wine is still in barrel – 50% new oak.
The nose is wide and fresh with some apparent minerality – nicely interesting. Lithe but more concentrated and showing a growing intensity of dark fruit. There’s certainly plenty of structure, but it’s fine fruit that has the last word. This will be worth waiting for, there’s even a small reprise of creamy flavour after you think it’s already finished. Super.
2012 Pommard 1er Cru Chanlins
This wine is still in barrel – 50% new oak.
The aromes are high-toned over a dark base of fruit. Rounder and silkier than the Argillières, then comes a little latent oak tannin. The flavours are clean and incisive and of intense dark fruit. Another lovely finish here.
This wine, made from 75 year-old vines, is still in barrel – 50% new oak.
The nose is wider and shows slightly finer fruit. There’s a little tannic drag but the grain is very fine. This is a lithe and linear wine, rather than round – something of a racehorse – then comes a really lovely extra dimension of flavour. Easily the best so far!
2012 Pommard 1er Cru Les Epenots
This wine is still in barrel – 55% new oak.
Aromatically fresh and dark but with a fruit support. Rounder, and textured with lots of fine tannin – real velvet. Theis is concentrated and has an ever-growing intensity. The fruit in the finish is very primary and maybe has a hint of licorice about it. Long…..
2012 Pommard 1er Cru Les Poitures
This wine is still in barrel – 45% new oak – and I assume shown last of the Pommards because it was made from purchased grapes.
There’s a good aromatic that gives an impression of texture. In the mouth the flavours are a little more loose knit than the focus and intensity of the others. Yet, beautiful flavours…
This wine is still in barrel – 100% new oak.
The nose is a little reduced and this note hardly fades in the 5 minutes it shared my glass. Round, with sweet ripe core of dark fruit – though the reduction is certainly amplifying this darkness. Lovely expansion of flavour in the mid-palate and really fine flavour in the finish. Lots of potential here!
This wine has been racked from 100% new oak. Will be bottled in 2 weeks.
Wide, high-toned and fresh, but also deep and at the same time concentrated – it’s very impressive! Full and round, but with perfectly balanced, growing, growing flavour. Very impressive wine here. The flavour lingers well after swallowing – and yes – I swallowed! Not just lovely, super! Chapeau…