Tasted with Dimitri Bazas and Mark O’Connell at Maison Champy in Beaune, 29 Jan, 2014.
I asked Mark about the writer of the book that I summarised in my Diary: Apparently Philippe Remoissenet is a Parisian real-estate developer, and a vague relative of more Burgundian Remoissenets. He was actually part of the investment team when Champy purchased Lalure-Pilot domaine.
Mark O’Connell on prices: The Domaine clos du Chapelle wines will increase in 2012, given the low volume of grapes at harvest. The increase is rather modest at 7% (ex domaine) but Mark notes “Given that we lost 75% versus a normal harvest, the allocations will be much harder than pushing the price increase through!”
A super set of wines:
2012 Volnay 1er En Carelle
Or, if you prefer, En Carelle Sous la Chapelle!
Quite a deep, medium-plus colour. The nose offers high-tones mixed with a little spice and something that reminds me of dried cranberries – lovely. There’s a fine sweetness of fruit in the mouth, and real 1er Cru dimension of flavour with and added floral impression. Lovely finish too. Very fine!
Normal production would be 8 barrels of wine; this vintage it’s 1.5 – so 66.67% new oak!
Medium-plus colour. The nose is finer and more elegant versus the ‘Carelle’. In the mouth, the impression is more lithe, narrow and mineral – rather intense too, with high-toned red fruit. It’s a little like a Caillerets. There’s a really good reprise of flavour in the finish too. Yum!
2012 Beaune 1er Teurons
Another low yield; normally 4 barrels, here just 2.
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s a faint reduction and slightly shy fruit. The flavour is wide and round, and there’s a slight ‘drag’ from the tannin. Lots of flavour interest here, concentrated dark-red fruit. Really good expansion of flavour in the mid-palate – it almost ‘pops’!
2012 Pommard 1er Chanlins
Only one barrel.
Medium-plus colour. Beautiful, dark, almost blue fruit. The palate here, is much wider than that of the Beaune, but maybe less deep. Overall I find a lovey character here. There’s a slowly growing extra-dimension of flavour in the mid-palate that lasts really well in the finish.