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Clos de la Chapelle – 2012s

DSC02910Tasted with Dimitri Bazas and Mark O’Connell at Maison Champy in Beaune, 29 Jan, 2014.

I asked Mark about the writer of the book that I summarised in my Diary: Apparently Philippe Remoissenet is a Parisian real-estate developer, and a vague relative of more Burgundian Remoissenets. He was actually part of the investment team when Champy purchased Lalure-Pilot domaine.

Mark O’Connell on prices: The Domaine clos du Chapelle wines will increase in 2012, given the low volume of grapes at harvest. The increase is rather modest at 7% (ex domaine) but Mark notes “Given that we lost 75% versus a normal harvest, the allocations will be much harder than pushing the price increase through!”

A super set of wines:

2012 Volnay 1er En Carelle
Or, if you prefer, En Carelle Sous la Chapelle!
Quite a deep, medium-plus colour. The nose offers high-tones mixed with a little spice and something that reminds me of dried cranberries – lovely. There’s a fine sweetness of fruit in the mouth, and real 1er Cru dimension of flavour with and added floral impression. Lovely finish too. Very fine!

2012 Volnay 1er Clos de la Chapelle
Normal production would be 8 barrels of wine; this vintage it’s 1.5 – so 66.67% new oak!
Medium-plus colour. The nose is finer and more elegant versus the ‘Carelle’. In the mouth, the impression is more lithe, narrow and mineral – rather intense too, with high-toned red fruit. It’s a little like a Caillerets. There’s a really good reprise of flavour in the finish too. Yum!

2012 Beaune 1er Teurons
Another low yield; normally 4 barrels, here just 2.
Medium, medium-plus colour. There’s a faint reduction and slightly shy fruit. The flavour is wide and round, and there’s a slight ‘drag’ from the tannin. Lots of flavour interest here, concentrated dark-red fruit. Really good expansion of flavour in the mid-palate – it almost ‘pops’!

2012 Pommard 1er Chanlins
Only one barrel.
Medium-plus colour. Beautiful, dark, almost blue fruit. The palate here, is much wider than that of the Beaune, but maybe less deep. Overall I find a lovey character here. There’s a slowly growing extra-dimension of flavour in the mid-palate that lasts really well in the finish.

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