Tasted in Chablis with Patrice Vorcoret, 10 January 2017.
Domaine Vocoret et Fils
40 Route d’Auxerre
Tel: +33 3 86 42 12 53
Patrice on 2016:
“It was only half, a harvest volume. I see the end of the vintage in positive terms due to the summer, before was frost, hail, wet and so mildew. Though the sun was hot enough that it grilled some of the south-facing grapes! We harvested normally, if a little later than average, and of-course everything was harvested by hand. Some of the 2016s have now been racked.”
Patrice on 2015:
“The wines of 2015 are accessible in terms of fruit – quite a primary and citrus fruit. They are more accessible than the the 2014s, and with the relative lack of 2016s in mind, I’m happy to have made a decent volume.”
In the context of the 2014 vintage, I found the wines here good. In the context of the 2015 vintage, I found the wines here excellent! Simply a great, indeed delicious, range at this address in 2015.
One quote I liked from Patrice was “I’ve been using DIAM seals for 5 years now, and I sleep much better.”
2015 Petit Chablis
From the plateau above the grand crus
Hmm, good freshness and depth of herb-accented fruit. Hmm, this fills the mouth nicely, not at all harsh, with plenty of complexity and fine points of interest. The mid-palate and finish are really very good – yum!
Plenty of sweet green fruit and good freshness. More gas, but wait – really a nice wine – fine, with more intense, mouth-watering, flavour. A little finishing sweetness, and again, really very tasty and finely balanced too. Very yum!
Vines of about 50-years-old, with elevage in some oak for 8-10 months.
Deep, fine fruit, almost pear style but fresh. Wide, fresh, fine minerality and super salinity, the oak is only a little visible in the mid-palate and will fade further – really excellent, well-textured wine.
A more mineral width of fine fresh nose-filling aroma. Hmm, lovely depth of flavour here, fresh flavour, bright and pointed, just a beauty – the finish is modest intensity but long. I love it.
The oldest vines of domaine in here, planted in the 60s, with about 1 year elevage in barrels.
The nose has a higher order of oak. Fresher, lovely volume in the mouth, fine texture and superb complexity – this is grand cru level wine – but let the oak fade. Delicious!
2015 Chablis 1er Montmains
A hint more colour. Ooh! Mineral, vibrant, good aromatic volume. Supple, less attack than the nose might suggest, but lovely, layered delivery of fine flavour. This is a beauty!
2015 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From Beugnons, Epinottes, Ronciéres and Sechers – almost all the Sechets is older vines.
Nice, fresh nose, plenty of mineral width. Silky, plenty of concentration – again delicious wine – bursting with freshness right at the end. Lovely stuff!
2015 Chablis 1er Vaillons Vieilles Vignes
These vines in Sechers
Wide, some texture of oak but interesting notes behind too. Less weight, more direction, really a beautiful melting flavour to remember the wine. Simply excellent…
2015 Chablis 1er Côte de Lechets
Ooh, a deep, vibrant, mineral nose – it draws you in. Bigger volume, fresh, cool fruit, a hint more gas, but wide and mouth-watering – again a delicious wine. A smack to the palate so you don’t forget that you are drinking Chablis – a wake-up! I like!
2015 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
Modest, fresh, mineral and saline. Hmm, this is really more classic; wide, lithe, changing, complex, almost a bubbling width of flavour. Less finishing impact, no less a wine. Super!
2015 Chablis Blanchots
2.12 ha owned here.
The nose reminds of the Montée de Tonnerre, but with a large floral addition, slowly showing some oak too. This is more strict, mineral, indeed structured, then comes the delicious mouth-watering flavour. Oh yes!
2013 Chablis Les Clos
A big core of dense fresh aroma, with a halo of mineral complexity – yes! Direct, intense, well padded, but a wine of line, and melting flavour. Really holding a great, persistent finish. Also excellent!