Tasted in Chablis with Vincent Dauvissat (and Lulu the cat) 16 January 2017.
Domaine Vincent Dauvissat
8 rue Emile Zola
Tel: +33 3 86 46 11 58
Vincent on 2016:
“2016? Simple, there’s not much wine here either to drink or sell. We had frost in some places, hail in two others, there was a little mildew too – so… When we harvested, there was actually a little more than I expected – that’s the peasant in me. But the grapes look good, modest acidity, but the wines are looking okay…
“2016 was also a year with a higher level of vine losses to diseases of the wood – normally less than half a percent lost here each year – it was nearer to 4% in some places in 2016.”
Vincent on 2015:
“2015 brought a nice volume, overall, but half was lost in some vines due to hail, so overall one-third of a normal volume was still lost. The balance is there, though. We planned to harvest from the 7th September but actually started on the 2nd.
“I’m really agreeably surprised by the quality of the wines that were touched by the hail! In terms of comparisons, 2009 is a little similar, in terms of balance and tension. 1992 was a big vintage, but is more questionable in terms of salinity. 2006? No, as the alcohols are a little higher than the acidity so not so high as here. 1995 could be a good comparison in terms of clarity and how lacy…”
Will finish all the bottling by February – All the barrels in cellar are now empty.
Once more, on of the finest cellars in this vintage…
Wide, fresh but with a modest cushion to the nose. Silky, with a growing wave of fine acidity. Just a very fine wine, no edges, just pleasure. Super in the finish. Slowly mineral, beautifully lingering and mouth-watering. Excellent wine.
A much higher toned nose; fine, sweet, mineral, almost in the direction of petrol. Silky, more direction, more clarity, certainly more intense. Beautiful points of finishing flavor – a broader finishing flavour. No fat, no lack of acidity. Perfect Chablis!
Hmm, less overt aromas but a beautiful pure width of almost vibrant minerality, slowly adding a subtle floral note too. Brighter, more intense, it’s another level; brilliantly intense with clarity of flavour, citrus and salinity, great line and persistence. This is my new favourite – just a very fine character.
Another level of vibrant minerality – pure is the word that comes to mind. Innately more minerality – a wine of more line, slowly melting, fine flavours that grow and grow. Beautiful saline finishing flavor too – actually waves of flavour density. Excellent.
2015 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
The 3rd vintage – there’s not much, its a very small plot.
Vibrantly mineral, faintly, sweetly coated – beautiful. Wider, simply beautiful texture, more saline less overtly sweet in the mouth, more complex and at the same time serious – it needs more time but it’s lovely in the finish, again a fine weight of finishing flavour.
Fine top notes of citrus a deeper bass-line of minerality. Here is more energy, more active in the mouth, fine round persistent and changing – a modest salinity arriving in the mid-palate and then into a little wider finish. Bright, fine and beautiful, easier, prettier and beautiful finishing. A crescendo of a wine….
Direct from tank, was racked last week…
A wider, more complex nose, less overt depth to start with. More wrought, really a fine texture, a little fat but mobile, subtly complex. Growing salinity and complexity. Bravo – this is long, tenaciously long…
Also from tank, not long racked.
Really the nose is tighter, more subtle. Faint flowers and minerality. Beautiful, fresh, gorgeous acidity, beautiful precision, really an intensity here, extra long, at least in terms of the intensity of finish just a great wine – in waiting – give it time.
One for the road…
Hmm, wide, yellow fruit, a little sous-bois. This is really extra mineral, extra mouth-watering, almost with a little lanolin in the mid-palate complexity – growing in width and salinity. Beautiful acidity. Fine persistence. Super fresh, super mineral and the extra complexity of age brings it together as a whole – bravo. It’s Sechets 1995. A wine of presence. A beauty.