Tasted in Collan with Emmanuel Dampt, 11 January 2017.
Vignoble Dampt Frères
1 Rue de Fleys,
Tel: +33 3 86 55 29 55
Emmanuel on the 2016 and 2015 vintages:
“Our vines are quite diversified around Chablis, so we had a little less suffering than some domaines, but still we had only half a harvest on average. 2015, though, was good in both quality and quantity – only a couple of cuvées saw some acidification; Fournaux and Preuses – all are bottled, the last in November. For the moment allocations are not too bad, but lets see…”
The 1er crus have a proportion of oak elevage; from 1-10 year-old barrels of 228, 300 and 350 litre sizes. The villages have just stainless-steel elevage – all sealed with 49mm cork here.
Another solid range of drinkable wines here, once more including a fabulous, inexpensive chardonnay from Tonnerre!
2015 Petit Chablis Elegance
From the vines planted above les Clos
Wide, faintly spiced, a little riper citrus below. Silky, a little fat, a wave of flavour – half mineral half fruit – then a saline, mineral finish, and long too – a little mineral austerity, so wait a few months, but it holds tenaciously…
300 hl with 40+ years of age.
A little wider, more saline freshness to the nose. More supple, a little extra sweetness, fine, less austere minerality and a very tasty length. This is a very fine PC!
2015 Bourgogne Tonnerre Chevalier d’Eon
All chardonnay. A mix of Portlandian and Kimmerigian, some parts almost Chablis, other parts only 10km from Champagne.
A wider nose, more lime fruited. Fresh, pretty, easy to drink, yet also you would assume Chablis from the shape, line and finish, a weighty minerality at the end. Very good – also needs a few months to soften.
2015 Chablis Tradition
The team here have a ‘presence’ in 15 of the 20 villages that can use the Chablis label.
A clean nose, fresh and citrus. More mouth-watering a little more sweetness to the mouth-watering fruit. Long mineral and still with a twist of citrus in the finish.
2015 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
Also all tank elevage.
Now that’s a very nice nose, full, complex mineral and citrus – pure and very inviting. A little more richness but not to the detriment of the freshness and mouth-watering flavour. This has a little phenolic impression right at the end, but super. I like this very much…
2015 Chablis Brechains
Some hail here, hard harvested, all in barrel. Opposite Blanchots.
Citrus but here with a floral addition. Nice texture and an oak complexity without overtly oaky flavour – it’s there but not to worry about at least until the finish where its more notable. Tasty stuff.
2015 Chablis 1er Beauroy
Vibrant, a lovely mineral nose. Fresh, wide, more intensity a pretty silk to the texture, a more overtly mineral wine though almost as a surprise it’s softer and more approachable in the finish – if no less long. Really good length. I would happily drink this today – yum!
2015 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
Avoided the hail in 15.
Seemingly more freshness with a faintly saline halo. Bigger in the mouth – fine volume and texture to match. Really good mid-palate complexity and a growing base of chamfered minerality. No sharp edges, easy to approach and very long. Super…
2015 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Fourchaume et Vaupulents, 40:60
A rounder nose, couched in sweet minerality – slowly adding a citrus support. Mouth-filling, mouth-watering, sweet edged acidity, just a touch of austerity to the minerality, then a small burst of additional flavour – very tasty and approachable. Classic shape, lovely wine.
2015 Chablis 1er Vaucoupins
A tighter, but mineral nose of quite some clarity. Really this whole wine is on a much more mineral level. There’s intensity and line, and indeed length too. Plenty of rigour which will repay a little patience. But very good stuff! And a great finish, it’s delicious in the finish.
More subtle, but also more complex – a really attractive if more modest intensity nose. Wide, lithe, supple wine – good texture with a hint of fat. Joyous in the mid-palate with a creamy sweetness and slowly decaying mineral notes. Simply delicious.
“The clos du Chateau Tonnerre a modest slope plenty of clay not unlike Preuses – a nice terroir.”
A faintly saline width, a little tighter than some. Hmm, really a mineral wine, saline too – 1er cru intensity and it rolls over the palate beautifully. For less than 10 euros – brilliant!
2015 Chablis Bougros
Ooh here is some aromatic density of flowers and faint points of salinity. Considered, almost contemplative, but layered flavour. Just a modest finishing austerity to the green citrus and mineral finish – but that’s fine, you’re supposed to wait for grand crus! Really a complex finish, I’d like a little more vivacity, but there’s no denying how delicious it is!
2015 Chablis Les Preuses
Hmm, more vibrant aromas, some extra sweetness in the width here too – super inviting. Less fat, more lithe, more mobile on the palate a little oak in the mix too. For all its energy and its complexity, it is actually less delicious than the Bougros – but this is all a question of time, and that time is in a few years, not now. Tasty stuff all the same!