Tasted with Jean-François Bordet in Maligny, 18 January 2017.
8 Chemin des Hâtes
Tel: +33 6 45 47 44 42
Jean-François on 2016:
“After Beru, Maligny is one of the worst affected areas, both frost and hail. But the quality of what remains does remind of a mix of 2014 and 2015. Fortunately the Fourchaume wasn’t touched. There will be both Petit Chablis and Chablis.”
Jean-François on 2015:
“2015 fortunately the big storm didn’t touch Maligny so we had no effect here. It was a difficult year, but easy in other respects. Lots of rain the first two weeks of May, so we were worried about rot, but thereafter very dry and hot – stress from the rain, stress from maybe rot, but then it eased. In August we had some worries as the grapes weren’t growing due to the heat. For those not hit by the hail, the rain was actually welcome – in the end we were happy. So a difficult year, though mainly in our heads!
“2014 was more classic, if I might say, because there was that special vivacity. 2015 is sunnier but it’s still a very nice vintage. I like to make direct wines but with a strong elegance. We were lucky that our Petit Chablis has plenty of clay which brings out the floral and fruity elements, and with 2016 in mind, I’m happy that we managed to make good yields in 2015.”
There are screw-caps, but no DIAM here as they have the impression that there’s a taste from the adhesive – on questioning, actually wasn’t a DIAM, rather an equivalent, also they consider DIAM expensive.
A good range from Jean-François.
Plateau in Maligny is all clay, almost no stones – this brings a floral, just some large stones – indistinguishable from the grand cru rock. This with screw-cap – also plenty screwcaps for villages Chablis.
Very attractive, fruit and flowers indeed. Supple but with a very nice line and freshness. Delicious, long and really tasty wine. An excellent start!
Here from Maligny, there are some parts with clay but mainly it is more stony ground. ‘Maligny does have a certain roundness though.’ Not is all bottled at the same time.
Smooth, round but with good fresh lemon. Brighter, more direct, hmm lovely melting flavour. This is excellent!
2015 Chablis Vieilles Vignes
Assembly of 3 parcels with vine ages of 108, 78 and 55.
Hmm, lovely, width, minerality, almost a suggestion of petrol. More depth, a certain richness of flavour, yet all is all well balanced – a weighty wine, raher than of just line, but complex, and interesting all the way into the finish. A beautiful finish that’s perfumed and completely delicious. Hmm – very lovely.
2014 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Today this is 100% from Homme Mort, 55-56 year-old vines.
A fresh nose of herb and a narrow but fine line of citrus. Good volume, more overtly fresh, with waves of flavour, good depth and nice definition. Mouth-watering, pretty and complex in the mid-palate into the finish. Very nice clarity. Yum!
‘From partner growers for at least 10 years, a real partnership. All the rest is exactly the same as the domaine wines.’
2015 Chablis 1er Vaillons
40-45 year-old vines. This 100% stainless-steel.
An extra freshness – nice width too and very inviting. Plenty of fresh volume in the mouth. But there is depth of flavour here too. Perfumed, fine ripe but fresh citrus friit in the mid- palate and finish. Simply a great tasting wine with length to burn as some might say. Excellent!
2015 Chablis Vaudesir
Bottled 6 weeks ago, 100% in barrel elevage, 1/3 new oak but in 500 litre demi-muids, the rest more like 10 years old.
Rounder, riper, a little oak too – creamy but inviting. In the mouth a little plushness to the texture but very fine depth of flavour and freshness. Framed with oak, but delicious fruit and a little salinity too. Really a fine line in the finish – lovely wine, be patient if you don’t want to taste the oak.
2015 Chablis Bougros
50% new 500 l barrels and the rest in tank. A total elevage of 16 months, 12 in oak. Bottled also in December.
A little oak, but here it’s more of a spice than the creamy effect on the last wine. A wide and slowly growing freshness – very inviting. Great volume, really! Mouth-filling wine, here there’s a more obvious mouth-watering acidity and fine overall complexity. The oak flavour is already very modest and the texture is excellent. I find this delicious already – bravo! Saline, and with a clean citrus in the finish.
2014 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A much fresher nose, rather ripe fruit at the same time. Really a great texture, width and growing, mouth-watering flavour. The nose and flavour are similar, and today less enjoyable than the 15s – good all the same – the finish is very fine though. Weighty, wide and with a very good persistence – this is my favourite part.
Ooh – that smells beautiful – a pronouned and complex agrume nose, more vibrant below. Fresh, a big wave of flavour, fresh agrume flavour too, wide, mouth-watering and totally delicious. Bravo! I love this!