Tasted in Chablis with Lyne Marchive and Guénolé Breteaudeau, 24 January 2017.
Domaine des Malandes
11 route d’Auxerre
Tel. +33 3 86 42 41 37
Lyne on 2016:
“In 2016 have some bourgogne (Mâcon) Peronne as the volume here was too low, and there was nothing in the neighbourhood to buy. Here our biggest loss was to the hail – 8 ha of Chablis with virtually 100% losses. It’s about half a harvest overall, yet in some corners, Vaudevey for instance, it was a normal harvest – then in the Côte de Lechets there was only 25% left – but villages Chablis was the worst. For the first time ever, we abandoned harvesting in the Côte de Lechet.”
Lyne on 2015:
“2015 is a good harvest. There was the hail in Les Clos and a little of Montmains, so we started the 2nd September – the storm was actually beneficial for the grapes whose maturity was blocked due to the dry conditions. We found it very helpful to chill the musts right at the start as their temperature was really too high during the harvest – 25-28°C – and the settlement (debourbage) isn’t effective at this temperature.”
This domaine had many problems with corked wines et-cetera, so now used a mix of Nomacorc, Procorc and DIAM, et-cetera.
Bottling is currently ‘by demand‘ so there can be some long elevage, which they prefer, but commercially they have had to make some earlier bottlings, for example March for Petit Chablis, July to October for some other crus, but for large volume cuvées, some still waits in tank.
2015 Petit Chablis
All stainless steel elevage. One parcel is rather old vines for PC, planted by Lyne’s father – about 40 years old.
Wide, fresh, accented with herb. Hmm, great texture, some richness, lots of energy and good acidity. A long line of finishing Flavour. A super PC!
From 5 different villages, mainly in Prehy – the largest cuvée of the domaine. 100% tank elevage. Of-course with this size of cuvée a number of bottlings.
Similarly wide, similarly fresh though here with more depth of aroma. In the mouth too, more accessible, more tasty complexity, real saline mid-palate flavour and fine fresh citrus too. Yum! Lovely wine.
An old vines selection close to Vaudesir but due to orientation classed as villages. 40% in barrel before re-assembling.
Here is a fresh and attractive width, and a pure and ripe lime. A little more volume, but very fine freshness with a hint of textural richness. Layers of flavour but really a finesse here. The oak is already consumed – there’s only the merest suggestion in the saline finish. Really great!
Hand harvested as there are lots of millerandes and anyway a small parcel – with vines about 40 years old. 100% stainless steel.
Fresh, deep, direct and attractive aromas. A little extra weight, but really a more direct and melting flavoured wine. Saline, with waves of fresh finishing flavour – a super purity and delivery of flavour. Excellent
Very steep vineyard near Beines – it doesn’t have the sun the whole day so is harvested a little later. 30% barrel elevage here – a mix of hand and machine harvesting.
A broader nose, saline and super classic. Lovely round super-tasty in the mouth, this is a beautifully mineral wine with just a hint of textural richness. Complex, nothing austere, simply delicious.
2015 Chablis 1er Montmains
Old vines – approaching 65 years old. 30% barrel.
A fresh nose of mineral vibration, almost suggesting an accent of reduction. A little more energy here, more sweetly mouth-watering too. I have a slight preference for the overall shape of the last wine, but here is a little extra easiness and deliciousness with a hint less minerality and texture. On one hand more, on the other hand less. Of-course still super wine.
2015 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
From the heart of the historic Fourchaume, parcels from father and grandfather – also about 65 years-old. Lots of millerandes so hand harvested – again about 30% new wood.
Really a nose with an extra perfume – round and certainly very attractive. A beautiful texture and really a saline complexity. Extra wide, mouth-watering beautiful wine.
2015 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
A small parcel since 2011, swapped some Vaudesir for this – but not the ownership! They simply work each other’s parcels! All by hand and with 50% barrel elevage.
Here is a nice width, a modest mineral aspect. Fine volume, no overt weight yet there is concentration of flavour, an easy complexity, a growing salinity, even a little extra volume in the finish. Frankly this is too easy to drink compared some of the previous wines and I know I should be saving it in the cellar, but…
Hand harvested from the ‘coté lunaire, not solaire’, needs harvesting 3 or 4 days later. 100% in barrel for 10 months followed by ss for a total of 13-14 months of elevage.
Good depth but here is a leading aroma of oak – attractive for oak, complex even, but you will need time for more. Wow. Super volume in the mouth, transparent, beautifully pure and fresh, slight richness of texture. Definitely more weight, a really gorgeous finish too. Long and delicious despite the oak. Wait a couple of years but this is super wine.
2015 Chablis Les Clos
All by hand and with the same elevage as the Vaudesir.
Big, round, only a subtly oaked nose, saline with a very slowly growing and very attractive perfume. Big wine, super volume, super texture, a layered wine, complex and delicious.