Tasted in Beines with Anne and Louis Moreau, 17 January 2016.
Domaine Louis Moreau
10, Grande rue
89800 Beines
Tel: +33 3 86 42 87 20
www.louismoreau.com
Anne and Louis on 2016:
“2016 needs some following, as they seem fragile in terms of elevage, but I think we just need to follow them closely. Beine was really the corridor between hail and frost, because of that, the volume here was not bad. Viviers nearby did only 10hl/ha. It’s still not a complete vintage for volume, but versus many areas we were lucky. We waited long for the maturity but when it came, it was necessary to harvest very quickly.”
Anne and Louis on 2015:
“2015 was really a small catastrophe – at least for our Blanchots, Clos and Clos des Hospices – okay there are 600 bottles of Blanchots, but not for commercialising. We had quite a lot of spring rain, but no frost – we harvested early in September, but of-course we had hail on the 31st August – but the accompanying rain did help the vines that had become too dry.
“Our yields were actually very good so it’s not possible to complain. Yet it’s a very pleasant vintage, with good balance. I think that 2007 is not a bad comparison, as those really taste super right now. 2005 is a little trenchant, 2008 and certainly 2009 are a little too. 2015 is generous yet easily shows the various levels of AOC. “
The wines…
50k bottles of Petit Chablis here using a high percentage of screw-caps. Across the rest of the range, they are now using DIAMs; 3, 5 and 10.
A very fine range here today, at their own stage of elevage many are showing a little tightness, but a great range all the same. All the wines already have their own personality in place.
Screw cap, mostly left bank vines near Beines
Very attractive, citrus and modest minerality. Bright, fresh, certainly direct – cool fruit but no hard edges. Really a super burst of flavour in the finish, long too. Simply excellent for the label.
2015 Chablis
About 25 hectares worth of vines.
A more modest nose, a little more herb, brighter, more intense, more saline. Really an extra burst of concentration as you head to the finish, but really great flavour too.
From Viviers. In the family since the 70s. South facing, on the plateau, not planted for a long time, pure Kimmerigian terroir.
A rounder, fresh, white flower, faintly saline nose. A little fuller, nicely round, really fine and precise, long. Another level after the last. Excellent – I love the slowly changing finishing flavour.
2015 Chablis 1er Vaulignot
Back to Beine, more north, north-east facing.
A little extra touch of fruit ripeness – it’s a subtle and inviting nose. Wider, supple, really a beautifully growing intensity, with a lovely, indeed delicious line of flavour…
2015 Chablis 1er Les Fourneaux
True Fourneaux.
Hmm, very different, a touch of fresh honey above. Hmm, this is fine in the mouth, waves of flavour, great texture. This is bright, fresh, mouth-watering, really a fine width of fine mineral finishing notes. A fresher nose, tasty and very fine…
2015 Chablis 1er Vaillons
2 hectares at the base/heart of Vaillons, vines now 55 years old. All work made in organic way, uncertified.
Hmm. This is less deep, but engaging,y wide with a little yellow fruit. Wide, supple, extra depth extra weight, a little iodine, saline. A broad aromatic line, a wave of mineral finishing flavour. This is really tasty, fading to a narrower line than some but retaining all the persistence of the others. Yum and everything is here for modestly patient.
2015 Chablis Les Clos
Only with tank elevage.
Quite wide aromas, yet still seemingly a little tight and airy but a modest vibration of minerality. Bigger in the mouth, really quite a massive volume. Yet there’s no pressure to spit or swallow. Super texture with only the merest suggestion of fat, and a very slowly changing complexity of flavour. A little peak of salinity. Depth, restrained power. This has just a little rigour to finish, a suggestion – but for a sleeping wine this is still a beauty. Keep your patience.
2015 Chablis Vaudesir
A more top to bottom nose, with lots of fine points of complexity, even some fruit(!) A little extra sweetness, a hint of gas, more overtly open and complex, really super energy. The suggested weight of the Clos is not visible here, this gives much more, hiding nothing, plenty of fresh fruit here. A really fine finish of complex, fading citrus and minerals. Super wine.
About 40-45 yo vines on the upper part
Ooh, this is an open, deep and sumptuous nose. Big in the mouth too, super volume, obvious fruit, ripe fruit, ripe citrus edged with a little oak. A beautiful mouth-watering, almost yearning flavour. Just a wine of absolute pleasure and decadence. Bravo!
2015 Chablis Valmur
Here there is still a decent aromatic, despite having to follow the Blanchots. A little more oak notes (500l barrels) a faintly smoked cream and lime. Hmm. Plenty of oak in the flavour, but the palate is wide with citrus, pear fruit and minerals. Very wide fine weight and texture. Here is a really great wine, but Blanchots excepted, another to wait for.