Tasted in Beines with Nathalie Geoffroy, 06 January 2017.
Domaine Alain Geoffroy
4, rue de l’Equerre
Tel: +33 3 86 42 43 76
Nathalie on 2016:
“We are about 30% down in volume in 2016. Beines was almost untouched by hail, but we had all the other issues of the year such as frost and mildew, but because August and September were dry the grapes ended up in good shape.”
Nathalie on 2015:
“2015 was also a little lower than a full vintage, maybe about 10% lower, but still a good one – we were affected by the hail at the end of the vintage, but not in Beines. Overall there’s not the same tension and freshness as in 2014 but the wines are tasty and showing mature fruit. I would keep them less long than the 2014s…”
The bottling is all finished here. As always at this address, a very correct and very tasty set of wines.
2015 Petit Chablis
Deep, herby, faintly phenolic aromas – nice. Bright, silky, and really a great intensity. Long flavour, a certain impressive weight of finishing flavour too. Very yum!
Roughly 30 hectares worth of vines here. Beines, Lignorelles and Chapelle le Vaulpeteigne
Fresh, a hint of lime. Some gas still here. Wider and fuller on the palate – lots of penetrating, fresh flavour – really lots of complexity too – eventually a saline note. Good length again too. Excellent.
2015 Chablis Domaine le Verger Vieilles Vignes
Oak elevege in this cuvee, not new barrels but 100% barrel. Average age of this assembly of parcels is 50+
No obvious oak aromas, but a softening of the aromas. Bright, a fine point of intensity, a silky, faintly plush texture, but no lack of fine acidity. Really a wide finishing wave of fresh flavour. Persistent flavour. Excellent again!
2015 Chablis 1er Vau-Ligneau
About 2.5 hectares – ‘Not a big parcel for us! The vines are now 31 years old and the cuvée gets more and more interesting.’ Only tank elevage.
A little more green fruit on the nose. Wide, vibrant flavour, slowly but surely expanding even further on the palate. Bright and intense finishing, this is really lovely – beautiful incisive flavour.
2014 Chablis 1er Beauroy
The historic cuvée of the family – almost 9.5 hectares averaging close to 40 year-old vines.
A deeper nose, riper citrus fruit at the base, faintly saline above. In the mouth this has volume and again a nice texture. Fresh enough and finely complex. The flavour is as persistent as the others but with much more interesting complexity. I like this very much – super.
2014 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
A parcel of 2.5 ha all in the same sector of ‘real’ Fourchaume.
Bright and pretty sweet notes of pure fruit – lovely. A little more gas here, wide, a little more herb, cooler style, again slow waves of nicely intense flavour washing across the finish. Lovely wine again.
2015 Chablis 1er Beauroy Vieilles Vignes
Principally 500 litre barrels for this – a little new.
With this tiny tasting glass I detect no oak, but a certain smoothing of aroma. Bright, intense, very fine line with beautiful clean intensity – only in the mid-palate is a slight suggestion of vanilla, but really today it’s on a very low order, certainly the finishing salinity is much more prominent – indeed the most marked of any of the wines so far. Super. I think the 15 fruit has more easily eaten the oak than in 2014 for instance.
2015 Chablis Les Clos
Not proprietors here, but each year buy from friends. He is also oak on one part that is assembled with tank wine.
Here the first wine where the vanilla is present in the centre of quite a good volume nose, coupled with faintly green fruit. Supple. Silky texture. Good, rounded intensity, a mineral intensity, some green citrus and also still a little oak. The finish is more modest in size than most, but equally long – possibly the wine with the most mineral mid-palate. Tasty but to wait for. ‘The 14 is also not yet ready, the oak still needing to blend.‘