Tasted with Jean-François Bordet in Maligny, 27 January 2016.
8 Chemin des Hâtes
Tel: +33 6 45 47 44 42
The Domaine Séguinot-Bordet has its roots in Maligny. This is an old family domaine; Jean-François took business on from his grandfather 20 years ago but the Seguinot family began to make wine in Chablis in 1590. The family come from Maligny so all the vineyards of the domaine are in and around Maligny. Since 2002 Jean-François has also made a little négoce wine, as his customers had been asking him for some grand crus – so now he also buys the grapes and makes the wine. The domaine extends to 20 hectares, producing 200,000 bottles including the négoce cuvées.
Jean-François on 2015:
“2015 fortunately the big storm didn’t touch Maligny so we had no effect here. It was a difficult year, but easy in other respects. Lots of rain the first two weeks of May, so we were worried about rot, but thereafter very dry and hot – stress from the rain, stress from maybe rot, but then it eased. In August we had some worries as the grapes weren’t growing due to the heat. For those not hit by the hail, the rain was actually welcome – in the end we were happy. So a difficult year, though mainly in our heads!”
Jean-François on 2014:
“2015 will be richer – we didn’t do any blending yet but some cuvées seem rich, but they are anyway on the lees so that doesn’t help! The 2014 is more typical Chablis, more classic – we like to make pure and elegant – and here it is.
No DIAM here as they have the impression that there’s a taste from the adhesive – on questioning, actually wasn’t a DIAM, rather an equivalent, also they consider DIAM expensive. A good range of wines, some are outstanding.
Plateau in Maligny is all clay, almost no stones – this brings a floral, just some large stones – indistinguishable from the grand cru rock. This with screw-cap – also plenty screwcaps for villages Chablis. This 20 years-old
A fresh nose with hints of green – attractive. A richness of texture but fresh and intense – actually rather concentrated too.
30-35 years old average, but really 10-55. This Chablis is blended from multiple plots, some with more clay and limestone, others completely stony.
A pretty, reductive element on this nose. Wide and mineral, nicely layered with a certain attractive reductive impression followed by a fine edge of salinity. A very attractive glass of Chablis here – lovely!
Assembly of 3 vines with vine ages from 55-80 ears
A subtle nose, faintly herbed and salted. A nice texture here and a weight of flavour that’s delivered in waves – this is very fine, a hint of richness but really flavour-packed. Simply a lovely wine.
2014 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Today this is 100% from Homme Mort.
Wide, herby and fresh, a certain citrus at the core. Richness of texture, also flavour, finely saline edged but with a fine freshness and complexity – this is very lovely, complex wine – really absorbing. Lovely.
‘From partner growers for at least 10 years, a real partnership. All the rest is exactly the same as the domaine wines.’
2014 Chablis 1er Vaillons
All the wines so far tasted were bottled in July. The grand crus were done in November. This 100% stainless-steel.
Here the nose is wide and fine – less deep, very fine top notes. Layered, texture, salted, growing intensity – a clear house style here in that the wines are not super fresh/intense but are luxuriously complex with fine balance.
2014 Chablis Vaudesir
This year elevage 100% in 7-8 year old wood tanks. Followed by 2-3 months in stainless-steel before bottling.
Fine and complex nose, like the other more at the top end and tighter in the bass notes. Wide and fresh, layered, mouth-watering flavour, beautiful in the mid-palate and into the finish. Less rich a more mineral aspect. Once more a lovely, lovely wine…
2014 Chablis Bougros
First vintage for this wine. This has 1 part in barrel and 2 parts in stainless steel for the elevage for 12 months then assembled into stainless steel for a last 2-3 months.
Here the nose is rather tight. There is the merest suggestion of fruit below, almost an impression of melon. Wide, a certain roundness, there is a core of minerality, slowly growing complexity and a salinity too. Grows nicely in the finish – actually the finish is very lovely and the nicest facet of the wine – really lovely finishing. Tasty wine.