Marronniers & Maupertuis – 2014


DSC09201Tasted in Préhy with Laurent Ternyck and Stéphane Sallet, 26 January 2016.

Domaine de Mauperthuis
3, Grande rue de Chablis
89800 Préhy
Tel: +33 3 86 41 42 70

The renovation work has continued at this domaine; there a bright, new, shiny thermo-regulated steel tanks, even two amphora, the wine still on skin-contact – for next year! Also the stock area is now completed with a nice airy building.

Laurent Ternyck in 2014:
2014 is really a vintage that resembles 2012 or 2010 – a vintage to keep. 2013 is a much more flattering vintage to drink today.

The wines…

As usual, just a super range in interesting, individual wines. A 100% cesar too – now that’s an experience 😉

First some reds:
2014 Bourgogne Le Brulis
A little prefermentation maceration, no pigeage, just pumping over. 6 months elevage in stainless steel. The name comes from a place where they previously hunted truffles. A South-facing hill on Portlandian – ‘very similar to Montée de Tonnerre’ in the direction of Auxerre, the plant material coming from the Côte d’Or.
Medium-plus colour. High toned and a little herb. Fills the mouth, lovely flavour actually – still with a herby component, perhaps pyrazine too, that reflects the nose, but lots of flavour and a nice density too – almost a hint of licorice in the finish – but clearly nothing from the barrel. Interesting and tasty wine.

2014 Bourgogne Grand Reserve
Grapes from the same parcel, but specially selected., 10-15% new oak. Working with coopers from the Loire.
Deeper colour. Here is a wider palate of aroma, quite a lot from oak, but attractively so, like the last wine a hint of pyrazine. Bigger, all directions, delicious slightly oaked flavour. A hint of coconut in the finishing flavour, but here is a tasty wine.

2014 Irancy
12 months in barrel for elevage, about 10% new. Massale selection, near Mazelots, 40-60 year-old vines. About 5% cesar in the mix.
Medium, medium-plus colour. A fine floral top line, tighter below. Big in the mouth but with energy and complexity too. Here is good intensity of flavour. Big finishing flavour. Good length of flavour too, Very good!

2014 Irancy Palotte
Will be bottled in 2-3 months, 12 months in barrel, none new, racked, another 6 months in barrel before manual bottling without finish or filtration. Lots of cesar in this mix – maximum 25 hl/ha from this parcel.
Different, spicy nose. Hmm – nice in the mouth, intense, wide line of flavour pushing towards the finish. Nice texture. Good length too.

2014 Bourgogne Cesar
Young vine cesar has massive clusters but as it ages it becomes ‘calmer’ – here are 80 year-old vines in Palotte that have hardly 30hl/ha rendements and also rarely go above 12° alcohol. Yes, this is 100% cesar! 12 months in barrel, will be bottles in spring.
Deeply coloured. Quite herby, perhaps rhubarb leaves – interesting if not attractive! Nice sweetness in the mouth, good texture, really an unusual flavour, almost chemical, but not, but this feels great over the palate and has a much nicer finish – a curate’s egg – I like very many parts of this but would prefer the mid-palate flavour to be a little more calm.

Les blancs…

2014 Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Truffièrre
‘Classic’ elevage with 100% malo, staying on lees for about 12 months. 100% tank
Creamy oak impression on the nose, despite there being none(!) but not unattractive. Bright and indeed lovely in the mouth, layers of fresh flavour but with a suggestion of richness too. Excellent for the label, with a nice length too – yum!

2014 Bourgogne Chardonnay Grand Reserve
15-20% new oak here, 12 months elevage before racking, will be bottled in Spring.
A nice lemon-yellow colour. A bigger nose, airy but with a modest mineral depth. A little gas, wait, here is a finely mouth-watering flavour, mineral but with an oak-coating today – super-tasty wine, suggesting a hint of coconut. Excellent Bourgogne and long too…

2014 Bourgogne Renouel
Basically Irancy blanc but there’s no AOC for that.
Bright, fresh, mineral depth – lovely, and that’s before a nice floral element starts to show. Lovely in the mouth too – intense, mineral, mouth-watering flavour. This is intense and impressive with a certain, Chablis-style, salinity. Also excellent wine – no obvious oak here except a an accent in the finish. Bravo!

Now Domaine des Marronniers:

2014 Petit Chablis
By the church of Préhy, behind the buildings of JM Brocard.
Bright and attractive, a faint, attractive phenolic note too. Bright but round and mouth-filling too. A yellow-fruited impression, good texture and lots of flavour – raw? Maybe a suggestion but this simply tastes great – yum! A great package.

2014 Chablis
Mainly from Préhy and Courgis.
A fine, green leafy note with a certain silkiness. Big, round, energetic, but nothing aggressive. Here is lots of flavour – you should wait a year or two, fine intensity in the finish. Good wine.

2014 Chablis Vielles Vignes Les Malantes
Malantes is the name of the climat. Planted in 1976. 12 months elevage in foudres with lees, another 3 months on lees after racking before bottling.
A direct and attractive nose – sleek and inviting. Wide, flowing flavour, coming in waves – yes! There is a certain impression of oak behind the curtains of flavour – for that I would wait, but here is really great material here. Very yum! Layers of discreet finishing flavour too – this is a very good wine.

2014 Chablis 1er Butteaux
Was always previously labelled as Montmains, but it’s always been 100% Butteaux… 15 months of elevage on gross lees.
A wide, fresh and very attractive aromatic that is very fine rather than of impact. Lovely, complex, mouth-watering wine – just really involving fresh complexity – never in a hurry, never loud – always absorbing – bravo!
2014 Chablis 1er Côte de Jouan
Still selling the 13, then they will start selling the 12 before the 14. A small parcel of 0.27 ha. Wood elevage, 400 litre barrels 2-3 years old – ‘so good to delay sales’.
Fresh, involving nose – no oak – but some flowers and minerals. In the mouth this has a wide concentration of flavour, very little oak to be honest, more a coloration of the background. The flavour has a supple character with a faint salinity, more flavour rolling off the tongue as you wait. Impressive, and I’ve no doubt that this will eventually be (at least!) a match for the Butteaux.

2014 Saint Bris
All classic here, full fermentations, local yeast…
A hint of nettle but here is an engaging sweetness too – rather attractive. Wide, fresh, nicely complex and composed – here is a little exotic fruit but also grapefruit – it’s not a harshly cepage wine, it is very tasty wine – a great effort. A sauvignon I would even buy! There, I said it!!! 😉

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