Tasted in Chablis with Etienne Boileau, 14 January 2016.
Domaine du Chardonnay
Moulin du Pâtis
Tel: +33 3 86 42 48 03
Etienne on 2015:
“Basically it was 3 of our crus that were impacted by the hail, but were able to start harvesting on the 5th, achieving about 40 hl/ha and the grapes were clean and not oxidised.
“The balance seemed okay. Fortunately the grapes didn’t ‘turn’ – their colours staying normal. The wines taste good after the alcoholic fermentation.”
Etienne on 2014:
“Actually we had a little less yield than in 2015, but clean, excellent looking grapes. We harvested a little later; 18-30 September. The wines are very stable it seems, and really a contrast to the 15s.”
Ettiene notes that “the market is going very well for our wines. We are keeping about a 50:50 split between domestic sales and export. There was about a 3% price increase for the 2013s, and there will be about the same for the 2014s.”
As always, the small ‘tasting-glasses’ didn’t help the aromas. Despite that, 2012-2014, these are easily, consistently, the best wines I’ve tasted at this producer.
2014 Petit Chablis
One large parcel at the end of the Bois de Milly plus a smaller parcel called Sur la Ferme above Preuses
Fresh, faintly green herbed. Wide and fresh with just a nice coating to the acidity so it’s not too intense. Good layers of flavour. Tasty wine. A nice citrus fruit to finish.
The largest part of this cuvée comes from the Vaillons valley plus 2 sectors within Chiché – 18.5 hectares. Some very old vines which are sometimes a little rich, other vines at Chichée with a great balance. Another sector above Vaugiraut. After malo all are assembled and only the bottling date may vary as it’s such a large cuvée.
Bright, fresh, pretty green herb. Ooh – this has a line of intensity but it melts sufficiently that it’s not harsh, plenty of width and energy and a slowly growing salinity. This is very good and tasty, relatively softer in style but I like it very much.
The first bottlings of these were in July – about 20 hl worth of each.
2014 Chablis 1er Vosgros
2 parcels, one steep and south-facing, plus another small parcel in Vaugiraut. Vine ages between 5-30.
Very nice – fresh with a hint of salinity – a really inviting, almost seashore wine. Bright, nicely wide, insinuating flavour, almost waves of fresh flavour with plenty of citrus behind. Really tasty wine with just a little minerality behind it.
2014 Chablis 1er Montmains
3 sectors, but all Montmains, roughly 3.5 hectares.
Fresher, wider and more mineral. A little more intensity again, but cushioned and finely mineral – this has a beautiful almost, but not quite, sharp line of flavour – you could almost cut yourself – super and very enjoyable with a good agrume flavoured finish. I like this very much indeed!
2014 Chablis 1er Vaillons
From Epinottes and Roncières.
A nice fresh top note with plenty of citrus – clean and inviting. Mineral but with finely sweet, mouth-watering acidity – just an occasional impression of reduction – but that could just be the minerality. Lovely again.
2014 Chablis 1er Mont de Milieu
3 ‘tiny’ parcels all next to each other. Small parcels so one of the smallest cuvees here.
Very pretty, wide, faint seashore nose that’s supported with some citrus too. Like the previous wines, the intensity mounts, but just before it could get aggressive there’s a sweetness that makes everything fine and tasty. Again a lovely wine – just a little more sun in the complexion here, fresh and balanced as it is. Lovely fading finish…
2013 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnère
About 20% old wood used here, same as Mont de Milieu. 2.1 ha in the true MdT.
A little more depth of aroma here, minerality, a little vibration… Big but without padding, mouth-filling volume really good acidity that’s just on the sweet side of intensity and a little agrume flavour melded with minerality. This tasted really good! Even a hint of florality in the finish. Fine!