Colombier – 2014

Update 2.3.2016(4.2.2016)billn

DSC09081Tasted in Fontenay-Près-Chablis with Thierry Mothe, 06 January 2015.

Domaine du Colombier
42 Grand Rue
Fontenay-Près-Chablis, 89800
Tel: +33 3 86 42 15 04

Thierry on the vintages:
“2014 is excellent, and good in quantity too; very typical Chablis with minerality and freshness, I find a very good typicité. The wines are showing lots of agrume, citrus, grapefruit and green apple. We had no hail, good maturity and no rot. Fortunately we had virtually zero hail here in 2015 too – the corridor of weather went right through the centre of Chablis, but apart from one or two insignificant areas, our vines were not hit. That said, 2015 certainly brought lower volume, about 20% less, and the wines have an extra richness.”

Thierry on 2014 pricing:
“We’re not expensive here so maybe an extra 0.20€ per bottle in 2014 – this makes a difference for us.”

The wines…

Tasting here is always a quick affair, 30 minutes and we’re done, but the wines show a discreet excellence. I note that Thierry is now using DIAM across the range – DIAM3 for the ‘smaller’ wines, DIAM5 for the mid-range and DIAM10 for his grand cru. “There’s no-longer a deviation between bottles for taste or colour et-cetera. None are returned and everyone seems satisfied – me too!”

All the wines have been bottled, the most recent being the Bougros grand cru in September. Thierry was racking some of his 15s when I arrived – he may bottle his 2015 Petit Chablis already in February or March 2016.

A small tasting glass, but most were anyway tight on the nose, probably regardless of ‘stemware.’

2014 Petit Chablis
The produce of multiple parcels.
A pretty nose with some lime fruit. Fresh wine but with a comforting sweetness, no aggression and lovely sweet flavours. This is very lovely PC!

2014 Chablis
A massive 40 hectares worth that needs 5-6 bottlings. A blend of left plus right bank vines plus old and young vines.
More reticent on the nose. A little brighter, more depth to the flavour, a certain impression of waves to the flavour. The waves continue after you swallow too – mouth-watering, sweet acidity – lovely and ‘classic.’

2014 Chablis Vieilles-Vignes
From 3 parcels of vines ranging from more than 45 years old to over 60 years-old – ‘almost a premier cru level’ says Thierry.
A modest nose; there are faint herbs but again aromatically tight. A little rounder, silkier with ingraining acidity and allied flavours – again lovely waves of flavour, this time with a little added salt. Lovely again, no, excellent!

2014 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
From 3 small parcels.
Also tight – the small glasses! Wider, some extra intensity and more direct flavour – lovely narrow line and rather silky too. Bright big wave of finishing flavour. Very yum!

2014 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
Also a rather tight nose; fresh, modestly herbed, but still tight. A hint more savoury, waves again, more mineral. Easily the largest finishing wave of flavour so far. Very tasty indeed, but I slightly prefer the extra sweetness in the Vaucoupin.

2014 Chablis Bougros
This bottled in September, not yet commercialising, as 2013 is the current year. From 3 parcels in the middle of William Fevre’s vines, including some old vines. 20% in barrique elevage, a couple of which were new barrels – you wont spot them!
Tight but there’s a pretty florality here. Really lovely texture with just a hint of richness to it. Very wide, layered flavour – a proper grand cru and simply a very lovely bottle – excellent!

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