Tasted in Préhy with Frédéric Gueguen, 29 January 2016.
Domaine Céline et Frédéric Gueguen
31, Grande rue de Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 41 45 06
Céline & Frédéric Gueguen created their own domaine in 2012. Céline is the daughter of Jean-Marc Brocard, Julien is her brother, so that was a good grounding for the domaine. The domaine’s cuverie is actually in Chapelle de Vaupelteigne, “mother is from there”, and they had the chance to buy a building there. Their vines are spread across the Auxerois and Chablis. Although 2012 was the start for the domaine, but they didn’t bottle – by 2014 45,000 bottles were filled. They have 22 hectares in total, 8 ha in the area of Chablis the rest in the wider Auxerois and Irancy. Already about 65% of production is exported, lots to the US.
Frédéric on 2014/15:
“We harvested for about the same length of time in 2014 as 2015 – but have almost 80,000 bottles for 2015. I’m really looking forward to those 15s. The 2014s remind me very much of the 2008s at the same stage.”
I am finding the wines here delightful, intense, pure and delivering both complexity and persistence. And for those of you not tempted to buy because you can’t pronounce the name – it’s easy – ‘gay-gann’ 🙂
2014 Côteaux Bourguignone Sacy
Only about 10 hectares remain. An old vine sacy 50 years old in Saint Bris that takes a Côteaux Bourguignone label. Facing Northwest, planted between Chitry and Saint Bris. Produces a bit more than chardonnay, was widely planted in Chablis at one time, because as a late ripener, it avoided some spring frosts. Fermentations really the same as chardonnay – all fermentations, malo included and only in stainless steel.
A subtle, faintly aromatic nose – floral and elegant. Good silky palate – hmm – lovely fruit , like a slightly more exotic lime but with a super saline line to finish. This is very attractive – and it will fool all your dinner guests too. Costs only €7 depart from the cellar!
West, south-west facing hillside.
Deeper, very faintly accented with a reduction, a faint sweet coating to the fainter fruit. Wider , mouth-water wide flavour – layered, lovely clarity. Really a super line of flavour here – excellent wine – gorgeous with a reappearance of minerality in the finish. Bravo! More like €8!
2014 Petit Chablis
From Préhy, 3 parcels 1.3 ha in total.
A tight but fresh nose. Here there is a lovely line of flavour fresh, mouth-watering and delicious. Floral fruit, no sharp edges – this tastes really fine. I might be tempted to take the previous wine ahead of this, but this is super – it shows a nice length of flavour too.
From Préhy and Chichée – 6 hectares in total.
This is nice, a little floral a little mineral vibration, a little agrume fruit – very attractive. Ooh… This is really lovely; mouth-watering really gorgeous flavour that melds flowers and fruit, almost but not quite sweet, then an attack of the agrume in the finish – just a top wine!
2014 Chablis 1er Vosgros
Two parcels, one in Vosgiros, together about 0.45 ha and with about 25 years of age.
A wide nose, faintly reduced, vibrant and really in the lime-fruit spectrum. Super mouth-watering intensity almost but not quite sharp. Heavily biased to citrus fruit, so mouth-water but with an intensity behind. The lime/citrus accents the minerality. Complex and altogether more serious, you won’t be ashamed to drink this earlier but you will be repaid for having a little patience. Super and indeed serious Chablis.
2014 Chablis 1er Vaucoupin
40-year-old vines in one single parcel, planted in 1975.
Agrume on the nose – more shaded to mandarin-style fruit. Lithe, mineral, nice bubbling energy, fine intensity. Then a growing width of flavour – really wedded in minerality. A super spine of flavour that really follows long into the finish. Another super-excellent wine that will repay the patient yet not penalise the impatient. Yum!
2014 Saint Bris
3 parcels combined, mainly north-west facing like a lot of the sauvignon.
This is deeply, clearly sauvignon with an almost sizzling top note of pyrazine, yet below it softens and the fruit is rather attractive with agrumes and lychee. In the mouth I like this much more – they flavour is layered, ripe but fresh with a certain richness and even the impression of a little salinity. I can honestly see myself sipping this in the heat of the summer. Very tasty.