Tasted in Préhy with Julien Brocard, 29th January 2015.
3, route de Chablis
Tel: +33 3 86 41 49 00
Jean-Marc Brocard began his domain in the 1970s with just 1 hectare of vines that he rented. The domaine he created now controls more than 140 hectares, nearly half of which is managed using organic and biodynamic farming techniques.
Julien on 2013:
“2013 was a small harvest, about 35% down. 70 people are needed for 15 days to do the harvest.
“Actually, the biggest problem in the market at the moment, is the lack of wine. Of course the négoce prices are very high, but fortunately we remain producers rather than buyers.
“I find the vintage a gourmand one and fruity but wait a little time and I think it will be classic Chablis….”
Local yeasts, no forcing of malos – they were just a little longer than normal in 2013. A mix of foudres and tanks are used for elevage but very old foudres without wood character. Vaudevey and Blanchots are the only wines not in bottle – the GCs were done very recently. Actually, only a couple of wines see the foudres, otherwise no oak – and they are big, old foudres…
A good and relatively classic vintage at this producer in 2013.
2013 Chablis Saint Claire
A depth of aroma, faint tarte-tatin, with a salty edge. A little richness but very good balance, width and concentration. Modest flavour dimension but a fine intensity in the finish. This is really tasty.
2013 Chablis Sainte Claire Vieilles-Vignes
The vines behind the domaine – 60 hectares of vines!
Fresher aromas, but still great depth. A more direct attack and more obvious intensity too – there’s a hint more gas here but modestly so. A nice width in the finish.
2013 Chablis 1er Vau de Vey
Also a note of tarte tatin, but fine and inviting. More weight and intensity – much more width too. Minerality underpins this wine – also with a little backed apple/pear in the finish. A long finish very nice!
2013 Chablis 1er Montmains
A weighty nose but one of the sea – classic Chablis, if with a little richness. A little silkier and a lot more minerality. This is a fine wine with lots of complexity, not the most energy but insinuating, tasty flavours. This is lovely…
2013 Chablis 1er Fourchaume
The nose has a little creaminess and richness of oak, but remains quite mineral. Super in the mouth with cool, lithe fruit and a fine underlying energy and acidity. There’s some richness of texture, but this is again very fine. Super finish
2013 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre
A faint reduction, which adds to the depth. Again fine, cool fruit, but with quite a bit more gas. Real extra dimension of flavour in the finish. I find this super despite the uncommunicative nose.
2013 Chablis 1er Vaulorent
Wide aromas, some reduction at the base again, eventually a little tarte tatin again. Wide, cool fruit, intense more energy and more minerality – all delivered with a silken texture. There is a weight of finishing flavour that recalls the nose. Truly not my favourite profile today, despite the very fine minerality and an excellent finish!!
Depth and weight of aroma without reductive influence – a faint creaminess too, but fine. Wide, intense and pretty wow. -pure minerality, a little richness of texture but certainly not of flavour. This is excellent and I love the finish!
2013 Chablis Les Blanchots
A very inviting nose that goes deep and maybe suggests a little reduction at its base but offers very fine high tones and a little seashore. Again super-mineral with a cosseting but not too corpulent texture – lovely measured intensity. Again a very fine wine. Super!! The finish is fine and long, again…
2013 Chablis 1er Les Clos
This needs a little swirling to release a suggested depth of ripe fruit and classic Chablis notes accented with salinity. Seemingly a little less richness of texture to start, but super-silky with a slow welling-up of flavour intensity that is very mineral and seemingly becoming richer. For Clos this is a little contemplative but it’s also concentrated and quite accessible today. Very tasty wine…
A much tighter nose, firing off occasional glimpses of fruit or minerals, but not more. Ouf! Really another level of complexity, accented with salinity. – really fine energy and a super finish This is excellent. The finish is more transparent and less forceful, but seemingly no less long. I really like this wine!