Tasted with Dimitri Bazas in Beaune, 29 Jan, 2014. Right, Dimitri consults the latest Champy database…!
Of-course, back in January, Dimitri was announced as the new head of Champy. For the future, he says that Champy will become the label for their négoce wines – “after all, Champy have 300 years experience in that” – the Laleure-Piot label will become the focus for their domaine offerings.
Bazas on pricing: For some 2011s there was a ‘light’ increase of 5%. For 12s there will be another increase, but it won’t be brutal – probably 10%. plus… If 2013 had been bigger we would probably increase less. But you only have to look at Macon villages that went up 45% last year to see our problem; there’s a market price for such a wine and we can’t exceed it. So we have no choice but to accept lower margins, there’s nothing we can do.
There’s also a non-signature cuvée which uses no oak, so, according to Dimitri, is fresher and more fruit-driven. Here is a small part of the domaine plus some Santenay. All elevage in barrel, 20% new. There was one racking into stainless and then this was bottled in November.
Medium, medium-plus colour. High-tones, though modest, rather shy fruit.Given the nose, the palate is much wider than you expect, with good fruit and acidity. There’s impressive mid-palate concentration for the label. A very fine start!
From three parcels that include domaine vines. “Deep soil here, so best not to push extraction” says Dimitri, “or it becomes rustic. In-fact, here we are missing nothing, except quantity.”
The nose is fuller and darker and shows a slightly cooked fruit. Wide on the palate, with plenty of interest – a bit less focused than the Bourgogne Signature but with a super, and quite long finishing flavour.
2012 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Les Fichots
Medium-plus colour. Here is a lovely aroma of dark fruit – very comely. Not as beautifully focused fruit as the Savigny, but tons of flavour and quite some interest. Overall the palate is a hint soft – the nose is the best part.
2012 Beaune 1er Champimonts
The nose is high-toned, showing some nice floral notes. Plenty of velvet tannin and really good depth in the mid-palate. It’s a long line of flavour that runs right through the wine. Less soft than the Pernand, and just a hint of astringency. A more interesting wine, overall.
Organic grapes from vines with an average age of 55 – only 4 barrels, one of which was new.
Medium-plus colour. Another high-toned nose over a whiff of oak. Lithe and showing a growing concentration, great definition here and a long line of fruit flavour. Very nice wine indeed – I like it very much.
From Bas Maizières, facing the wall of the Clos de Vougeot. Also purchased grapes, but harvested by Champy’s team.
The nose shows some typical VR spice, high tones and a faint hint of musk – very nice! The palate is direct and long – if not so wide. Growing intensity here and a rather mineral expression. Chapeau!
The blend of a number of lieu-dits. Just 3 barrels, where normally there would be 15…
Brilliantly deep colour. First there’s some faint reduction, but behind is a gorgeous dark-fruited soul. A little CO2 but this is still obviously big, round, concentrated and shows tons of mouth-watering flavour. And length. Really super villages.
Two barrels versus the usual four.
Deep, interesting, faintly oaky aroma. In the mouth this is full and round but with very well-covered tannin that slowly grows a fine grain. There’s a faint reductive flavour here, but it’s long, long, long.
Medium-plus colour. The nose is immediately mineral, high-toned and shows interesting depth. Full and round but with lots of detail and complexity. Super finish! A world of difference to the Côte de Beaunes which preceded it, but brilliant.
Now using DIAM for ‘quick-turnaround’ wines.
2012 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Signature
Grapes from Rully and the plain of Puligny, plus some Hautes Côtes from near Pernand. Fermented in barrels with 1 week of batonnage, just 1 racking and then bottled at the end of 2013.
It’s a wide, round and quite interesting nose, augmented with a few barrel references. Full in the mouth but with okay balance – quite friendly. Lots of flavour here, really super in a fruit-driven rather than mineral style. Yum!
2012 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er En Caradeaux
The aromas are more intense with citrus and mineral aspects. A little CO2 spritz distracts, so most of the interest comes after swallowing. Lovely length of mouth-watering flavour. Yum. This will be excellent.
Must purchased from two vineyards. Bottled September 2013.
A rather classic Meursault nose with just a little richness. Also a little too much CO2 here. A very fine flavour that grows and follows into the finish – and its a lovely finish.
2012 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Chenevottes
A fresh and mineral nose, not one that I’d guess to be from Chassagne. Very mineral impression – more like a Caillerets. Fine growth of flavour and finish. Super wine.