FEED | SEARCH://

Roundup of Wines Tasted

wine testing

1er CRU WINES

1993 Bertrand Ambroise, Nuits St.Georges 1er Rue de Chaux  try to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium, medium-plus colour. The nose is quite estery, masking any real depth – at least at the start – very slowly this lifts giving a 20 minute window of nice red fruit and the start of a cedar note, but later becomes very high-toned again. The palate has a fresh yet concentrated stance with a heavy emphasis of nice black fruit. The finish is understated but long. An interesting wine that for me – apart from that 20 minute window – was spoiled by the aromatics.
2004 d’Ardhuy, Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes  try to find this wine...
There’s a tight core of red fruit with cedar overtones on the nose. Understated entry before bursting with fruit on the mid-palate, perhaps this is in-part due to a little petillance, but the texture is very good and the length compelling. Understated middleweight elegance.
1999 l’Arlot, Nuits St.Georges Clos des Fôrets  try to find this wine...
Medium-minus colour. A friendly and complex nose; faint, very understated smoky stems overlayed with mainly black cherry notes. The palate is very well balanced, good acidity and still quite linear, though ripe fruit. The tannins are understated, heading for the background, but still with a last edge of astringency. Overall a very interesting and understated wine where, today, most of the action comes from the lovely aromatics.
2001 Denis Bachelet, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux  try to find this wine...
Medium-plus cherry-red. The nose starts a little funky and diffuse, little time is required to lose the funk and provide a wide, slighty warm and deep effect, eventually it’s a lovely redcurrant nose. Almost as intense as the two 01 Clos St.Jacques, equally mouth-watering and similarly long. The overall profile is slightly more rustic with some grain to the tannin, but as this tannin fades with time you are very close to a cut-price Clos St.Jacques. This is heartily recommended.
2002 Bruno Clair, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques  try to find this wine...
In hindsight it was more of a mistake not to ask for larger glasses in the restaurant than to delay the request for a decanter – this wine was a missed opportunity. Over about 90 minutes the wine never opened out on the nose, subdued aromatics of red fruit with a faint black edge. From time-to-time I imagined more, but then it was gone. The palate is that of a perfectly balanced, linear light-middleweight that is fine of tannin and shows good freshness. On this outing the length is also unremarkable. Too tight for interesting.
1999 Christian Clerget, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Charmes  try to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red colour. The nose starts very-much in a coffee/mocha vein, but bit-by-bit plums ever-more depth. Time takes the nose into a lovely core of tight, focused red fruit that eventually widens to give a redcurrant aspect – always my favourite. This has depth, intensity and an obvious extra level of tannin vs the older wines. A lovely wine.
1999 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques  try to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium ruby-red colour. It’s a wide and mineral nose with an almost corky element. With time the corky element takes over – I never found it on the palate though – still, a shame.
2001 Domaine Fourrier, Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers  try to find this wine...
Medium-pale ruby-red colour. The nose starts out a little dark and chocolatey; time takes away the darker elements to be replaced with slightly volatile, high-toned estery notes and a faint core of tight red fruit – not so appealing. The palate has good texture and mouthwatering acidity. The intensity belies the colour and the finish is quite long but rather metallic. On day one I have to say that I’m a little disappointed. Day two the nose is a little more estery and the palate remains consistent. Disappointing.
2001 Domaine Fourrier, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques  try to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red colour straight to the rim. The nose starts deep and rather oakier than I normally associate with Fourrier, above the oak the vista slowly opens with higher tones and an impression of sweet vanilla. Slowly a core of red fruit starts to develop, but if anything it becomes a little more diffuse. You really need 24 hours to see the oaky veil lifted a little and some weighty depth with floral hints and deeper savoury notes- this should be the final transformation of the oak. The palate is fatter, smoother and sweeter than the Jadot, less direct but equally intense from the mid-palate into the finish. The finish is also a little vanilla influenced and also very slightly bitter – though less-so than the Jadot. In its first hour and despite the extra plushness of the palate I’m leaning toward the more athletic, focused and precise pose of the Jadot. With time the intensity and depth are more apparent than the vanilla.
1999 Michel Gay, Savigny-lès-Beaune Serpentières  try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is forward and deep but to my taste unfortunately pruney – though there is a core of red fruit. The wine is concentrated and well textured – there’s plenty of wine here, ripe and sweet but again there’s that rather blocky, pruney element in the mid-palate, some raisin too. As said, there’s a lot of wine here, unfortunately I don’t like it very much…
1993 Géantet-Pansiot, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Les Poissenots  try to find this wine...
(From magnum) Deep ruby-red colour. Even at 13 years-old the nose still has some fall-out from the toasty oak of its youth; mixed with sweet, predominantly black shaded fruit and a little coffee – it takes some time in the glass to lose the oak, but it becomes ever-more primary with a strawberry/raspberry impression. Instant impressions are of concentration and very good acidity but only average length. Despite the length, this very youngly presented wine is certainly the most interesting Géantet-Pansiot I’ve ever had, all that I tasted from 2000-2002 seemed too soft in the middle. Expanding well in the mid-palate I even get the impression that the length improves with time, but following the hights of the ‘93 Rousseau Clos St.Jacques this is very-much on a lower level.
2001 Louis Jadot, Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.Jacques  try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus colour – still holding onto cherry-red – but only just. The nose starts with considerable width but not much depth, there’s an undertow of sweet creamy earth but little else. Slowly the nose begins to blossom with tight red fruit, cranberry and red cherry, eventually redcurrant too. In the mouth this is superbly intense and after you swallow, it’s very much like the sides of your mouth are leaking as the finish goes on and on. The overall effect is of a taught and wirey wine with tannins that are quite smooth with faint astringency and just a trace of bitterness. With time the bitterness is lost yet its tightly wound transparent nature remains true – excellent.
1990 Lafon, Volnay 1er Santenots de Milieu  try to find this wine...
(From magnum) Very deep colour – close to black. No obvious oak on the nose, but it’s so dense and unforgiving – perhaps this is a harsh adjective, but this wine is so fresh, linear and dense that it could be 2002 in presentation. The only clue to its age, is that the tannins have started to melt, but super concentration remains – it’s a tour-de-force – but wait for 2015. If there is one criticism, the wine doesn’t seem so long and is unlikely to gain length with extra age – but I’m still very, very impressed. Versus the Clerget Chambolle this has twice the depth & concentration, but the Clerget is significantly more refined – the choice is yours.
2003 Leroy, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Narbantons  try to find this wine...
Deep colour. The nose is dense and tight; there’s a little oak-gilded black fruit, only deepens a little after 25 minutes in the glass. Lower acidity than the 04’s, though quite well balanced. The finish is dominated by toasty oak – though not ashy. After the 04’s this is rather ponderous and extracted – there is also perceptible petillance – but it would be a shame to judge this so young, particularly after the ultra-different 2004’s that preceded it. Revisit when it’s 15 years old, but given the price (3 times the price of the 1999) I won’t be joining the ride!
2003 Leroy, Gevrey-Chambertin Les Combottes  try to find this wine...
Deep colour. After the Nuits the nose is more mineral and wide showing mainly black fruits, time in the glass only adds to the intensity. The palate is lithe, muscular and again black shaded. There’s real intensity and length – this wine comes across as less typical of 2003. Versus the Nuits this has a different level of refinement, focus and, frankly, class. A Fantasic wine that would outperform many grand crus – shame it costs double the price of the Nuits.

1995 Méo-Camuzet, Nuits St.Georges 1er Aux Murgers  try to find this wine...
(From Magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red. A dense and intense nose of meat, earth, blood and eventually red fruit – some of the effect is wood-driven, but it’s impressive all the same. Well-balanced palate of good acidity and relatively good texture for a ‘95 – the tannin is well-controlled. This is a very young wine that was never embarassed for density vs Dujac’s Clos de la Roche though by comparison was missing both complexity and a little length. A very young wine that definitely surprised on the ‘upside’.
2003 Chateau de Monthelie, Monthelie Sur la Velle  try to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour. A mix of deep and ripe cherry and raspberry, faintly edged with coffee. Sweet, dense, long-lasting flavours with just a little dryness from the tannin. Very-much 2003, but a very friendly and accessible wine.
1997 Mugneret-Gibourg, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Les Feuselottes  try to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium-plus colour. The nose is surprisingly meaty and spicy, opening ever-wider and at the same time denser red fruit and a more mineral, cedar note comes through. The palate is very fresh and interesting for a 1997 – no dodgy acidity here – though perhaps only medium-plus length. Like the nose, the red fruit on the palate is rather dense and wall-like (like some ’95’s) – little in the way of delicacy is available and I’m not sure if more time will bring it, but this is quite young and almost impossible to pick blind as 1997. It’s still a fine young wine.
2001 Dr Georges Mugneret, Nuits St.Georges Les Chaignots  try to find this wine...
Medium-plus colour. Drunk directly after the l’Arlot Nuits (Les Fôrets); the nose is instantly more concentrated and fruit driven, edged with a Vosne-like spicyness. Again the palate is more fruit-driven and shows a higher level of tannins, but they are finer cut. A good finish too. Despite sharing a Nuits 1er cru label, this is a totally different wine to the l’Arlot, each will have their own followers. Today I would choose the aromatics of the l’Arlot and the palate of the Mugneret!
2001 Pavelot, Savigny-lès-Beaune Dominode  try to find this wine...
Medium cherry-red. A high-toned nose that starts with a little oaky influence before settling into a wide, red raspberry/cherry blend. Athletic, lithe bodied – no fat – lovely acidity and a fruit concentration that seems to grow in the mouth. Less obviously tannic than the 2000, this is a lovely, classicly styled and obviously young wine, but a definite re-buy.

2002 Nicolas Potel, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Gaudichots  try to find this wine...
Deeper ruby-red colour vs the 02 DRC 1er. The nose is sweeter with a hint of oak and cedar and
perhaps just a trace of volatility. Beautiful texture, opens out over the palate very well. This wine in isolation a rather good, next to the DRC it’s lacking focus and precision. There is more density and intesity but not quite the length of the DRC. Today this comes a distant second, it will be interesting to make the test again in another ten years or so.
2001 Gaston & Pierre Ravault, Ladoix Le Bois Roussot  try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby colour. The nose is deep; concentrated baked redcurrant against a herby background – quite attractive. Good concentration, mouthwatering acidity and well-hidden tannins. The finish is quite long too. This wine punches above it’s weight – very good value too.
2002 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru  try to find this wine...
Medium colour. A wide, interesting and smokey nose of quite some complexity, eventually a little
bacon-fat comes through too. The palate is nicely delineated if not so concentrated, yet is both
elegant and delicate. Actually this is rather beautiful and shows wonderful balance, such that I
expect it will be very long lived. Super and with beautiful aromatics too. This was a hard bottle to open – not through guilt, rather the cork – pushing the corkscrew into the top caused the cork to start sinking and wine to squirt as there was no airspace. With incredible care and a twin-pronged ‘pull’ tool I got the cork out – phew! Comparing to the other wines opened this cork seemed narrower in diameter…
1993 Armand Rousseau, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Clos St.Jacques  try to find this wine...
(From magnum) Medium-plus ruby-red colour. A deep, intense, meaty nose that starts with a slightly diffuse width. There is also a faint oaky component to the depth, but it’s mainly consumed now – with time the fruit really tightens and focuses. In the mouth this wine is still immensely youthful – 10 extra years would provide ample benefit – the acidity is like a roller-coaster into the finish, and a very impressive and intense finish it is too. Bravo, but still a baby.
2001 Bernard Serveau, Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses  try to find this wine...
Medium-pale ruby-red. The nose is forward, just a little creamy and dense, also a suggestion of smoke in the background that hints (together with the colour) at the inclusion of some stems. The fruit is hard to get at and even seems slightly reduced to start with before offering a dense cherry expression. Silky palate, certainly refined but seems overly light. Evanescent finish, lacking that spark in the mid-palate and frankly flavour too but the finish has some intensity. It would make a good villages, but real disappointment here vs the label.
2004 Tollot-Beaut, Beaune Clos du Roi  try to find this wine...
High-toned fruit over a depth with hints of oak. Nice texture, lovely purity; the tannins are a little more forward but still quite fine. A super wine.

2002 Tollot-Beaut, Beaune Greves  try to find this wine...
Deep cherry-red. The nose is quite super; a deep and forward mix of black and red cherry over subtly creamy oak. Depth, concentration and velvety texture, pushed by the mouthwatering acidity this is very long. There’s still a littly oaky bitterness on the finish, another 2-3 years and I think this will be absorbed. Despite the open nose there’s a real brooding sense of character to this wine. Top-notch Beaune that will amply repay cellar time.

2004 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières  try to find this wine...
An open, sweet cherry nose. Again an extra density on the palate. Fine tannins with a perceptible extra length to the finish. The vines are a mix of ages; planted in the 1950’s, 1980’s and 1990’s. A lovely elegant effort which shows just a hint of cream on the finish.
2003 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières  try to find this wine...
Deep cherry-red. The nose starts a little foisty – sulfurous funk, not taint – some oak too. Just a few minutes of aeration and it is much cleaner; there is width and a mix of savoury and tight red & black fruit elements and some oak, clearly 2003 from the aromatics. Quite dense vs the other vintages, relatively low acidity but there’s a very sneaky length. The texture is actually very good, there are plenty of grainy tannins but they are hidden behind the concentrated fruit. It’s not my favoured style but it has been executed very, very well. The oak whilst ever-present eventually gives a slightly black-olive edge to the wine.
2002 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières  try to find this wine...
A wild cacophony of red and black fruit over oak greets your nose, slowly focuses to bright black cherry eventually with a sweet, creamy edge. This is likewise black-fruit dominated in the mouth with more than a trace of oak flavour, but no bad oak texture. Super acidity and a finish that for most of the trip is also a little oaky then surprises with a creamy flourish. There’s just a little more wood evident here than with the other wines, but there’s also depth, good texture and great balance. This wine is showing very young – I wouldn’t hesitate to leave this 5 years before revisiting, the base material is very good.
2001 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières  try to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red. The nose starts bright and red, powdery fruit with currently just a little savoury undertow, shows a nice core of intensity. Lovely texture, perfect acidity and good mid-palate intensity. The acidity elongates the finish though here lies the only negative, just a little bitterness at the very end. I expect that this is a transitory oak effect that will improve. An excellent wine I think.
2001 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Champs Chevrey  try to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red. A nose that’s wide and relatively high-toned, just a slight estery edge over faint, warm, ripe red fruit. The palate is soft and light with sweet red fruit, even a hint of oranges going into the finish. From a flavour perspective, this actually showing quite a bit of maturity. Lighter and more elegant than many Tollot wines, but it’s made in a very sympathetic way, as in this case there is no oak character at all. Very tasty, but not a wine for the ages…
2000 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières  try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. A nose of wide and sweet red fruit with just a suggestion of high-toned fresh mint. The impact is very up-front and indeed front-end loaded, slowly fading through the mid-palate and finish – but the finish holds-on well. There is good ripeness and a nicely accessible presentation. A diminuendo of a wine, no hard edges, though not much structure either, yet very nice aromatics indeed. Still no rush to consume.
1999 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières  try to find this wine...
(From magnum) A deep core of colour that’s just holding onto the last trace of cherry-red. Aromaticly this is both wide and deep – the high notes are a little floral and the depth is of red jam tarts. The palate has good density yet somehow remains rather compact. The texture has just an edge of fat and plenty of tannin though it’s quite fine for a Savigny. The fruit is black-edged and really does hang-on very well in the finish. Certainly young, but lots of potential – everyone enjoyed this wine – three more were ordered for the cellar, but they had sold-out!
2004 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Champ-Chevrey  try to find this wine...
A tighter, finer core of black-shaded fruits on the nose – some depth too. A super fine texture to the palate, just a little more padding than the ‘Lavières’- again dark shaded fruit. I always liked this wine, and here is no exception.

1991 Tollot-Beaut, Savigny-lès-Beaune Champ-Chevrey  try to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red – looks lovely in the glass – quite young looking. The nose starts slightly feral followed by a deep chocolate note, then a savoury stage before a baked raspberry tart core remains constant. Nice fat, round in aspect it’s well balanced with lovely acidity and real complexity. Still some tannin, the finish slowly fades. Lots of interest here – do yourself a favour and don’t always drink these young!
2002 Bouchard Père, Meursault Perrières  try to find this wine...
Medium lemon yellow. The nose is fresh and understated, yet offers up many layers with a faintly creamy edge. The palate is concentrated yet also understatedly provides layers and layers of interest – I’m now regretting that only 4 more lie in the cellar. Lovely acidity and length. Wonderful in an understated way.

2004 Michel Bouzereau, Puligny-Montrachet Champs Gains  try to find this wine...
Just a little darker yellow than I would like for a ‘new’ wine, almost golden. Delicate nose with a hint of green pea (like a red in malo) that eventually becomes more golden and honeyed. Nice texture, balance and an interesting length, but this wine is lacking both density and dimension vs Lamy’s 04 St.Aubin Remilly. A nice enough wine, and despite its reasonable cost, if this bottle is representative it is some way short of showing real value.
2004 Marc Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets  try to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow. Drunk after the villages Encegnieres the nose on this is much more subdued, dense and creamy. The palate is instantly more explosive, higher concentration and length. This is very primary and linear and I expect it will need at least 5 years to really start singing. A super wine.
2004 Philippe Colin, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers  try to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow. There’s a well-integrated nose of toasted bread and rich fruit. Very forward acidity is the initial impression. The acidity is very smooth and very mineral in aspect, initially rather dominating the linear fruit, but there’s no missing that sneaky and very creamy length. Once my palate adjusted (I don’t think the wine materially changed) I was able to see the extra kick of citrus edged fruit in the mid-palate and appreciate the super purity. Drink this today direct from the fridge or with a buttery sauced dish, alternatively store away for 5 years before revisiting. On day two there’s quite a honied aspect to this wine, and less intensity to the acidity. I preferred day 1.
2004 Marc Colin, St.Aubin En Remilly  try to find this wine...
Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose is wide and fresh, just a little faint cream behind fruit that’s redolent of fresh-cut pears. Good texture and penetrating acidity that pushes the intense finish long. There’s a strong impression of savoury – though not toasty – oak as you enter the mid-palate. The oak just takes away a little of the fresh vivacity found in today’s tastiest 2004’s but this is still a very good wine that gets even better with aeration.
2002 Joseph Drouhin, Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne  try to find this wine...
A young looking medium yellow. The nose is wide but subtle, quite complex, faint honeysuckle and subtle ginger. The palate is a model of balance and elegance, building concentration in the mid-palate and very slowly fading into a coconut-edged finish. A wine to slowly savour – lovely.
2004 Fontaine-Gagnard, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er La Romanée  try to find this wine...
Medium-yellow. Initially, wide but not deep aromatics that hint towards melon rather than the citrus paradigm of 2004; with time, higher tones start to predominate, perhaps with a hint of smoke and citrus! If the nose doesn’t leave you thinking of 2004 the taste does; classical acid-driven citrus notes that run perfectly into a finish that’s just a little more savoury. Versus the best 1er Cru’s of 04 this doesn’t have that painful, moreish intensity, yet it’s very tasty and enjoyable; I’d still be happy to drink this anytime.
1997 Hospices de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru Charmes Cuvée Albert Grivault  try to find this wine...
(From magnum, Maison Ambroise) Golden colour. The nose starts in a relatively forward and creamy way with a little oak-toast in the background. Slowly the aromatics get wider and more fruit-driven, providing a real extra dimension. The palate is quite fresh and just a little petillant to start (this is soon gone). I find a faint oxidative element but the length is rather good. There is certainly a bitter element in the finish which is oak-derived and which I would have expected to have melted by now – though perhaps the magnum-size makes the difference. It’s a good if not great 1er cru that gets better all the time from an aromatic perspective, but remains relatively static from a taste perspective.
2004 Hubert Lamy, Saint Aubin En Remilly  try to find this wine...
Pale yellow. A mix if savoury and sweet plus slowly fading oak that has a hint of toast, eventually sweet fruit that even borders on banana is released. Quite fat in the palate, smooth acidity doing just enough to ‘cut’ the fat to avoid becoming cloying. Really expands on the palate into a super, mineral finish. There is a lot of of wine in the glass – it’s a first-class St.Aubin – I’d drink a few now and then leave a few for 5 years hence.
1996 Leroy, Meursault Perrières  try to find this wine...
Golden. A honied nose – very Meusault, but less-so Perrières – wide with a peach-stone core. Surprisingly sweet with good fat and intensity. The acidity is good but very well covered. This is not the best Perrières I’ve tasted, it is a good but not a great one. As far as the value is concerned, however, this is by far the most interesting of this flight of wines.
2000 Bernard Morey, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Embrazées  try to find this wine...
Pale gold. The nose starts with plenty of brioche, slowly tightening and hardening and showing a little honey. The palate has some minerality and nice acidity, the finish is also not bad, but I’m missing both depth and concentration. It’s quite a linear presentation and this bottle would not convince me to repurchase.
2004 Laurent Tribut, Chablis Beauroy  try to find this wine...
Pale green-yellow. Fresh, medium intensity nose of oysters and lemon. The palate also shows a nice freshness, steely presentation and a nice extra burst in the mid-palate. The finish is quite long anf full of citrus notes. A nicely mineral and understated wine of some quality.

GRAND CRU WINES

1996 Guy Castagnier, Bonnes-Mares   try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby red. Aromaticly understated when first opened, hints of deep fruit and unfocused high-tones. Given time the nose both deepens and widens, at the same time bringing everything into better focus – really lovely. In the mouth this is silky and intensly concentrated, the acidity is much more ’96-like than either of the Clos de la Roche or Clos St.Denis; the acidity is to the fore and shows just a hint of a metallic edge, but it’s very smooth acidity. The finish is not so long as the ‘Roche’, but like the ‘Denis’, this is a good deal more linear if not primary. The acidity begs you to swallow the wine, so the tannins just slip by. I don’t expect this will reach its apogee for at least another 5 years – when I will gladly try again.
1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos de la Roche   try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is a beauty; a meaty base with sweet delineated fruit of real depth, loses a little of the higher tones with time in the glass. The fruit is concentrated and dense, velvety and plush without being too fat, though dense enough to amply cover the super acidity. The finish is long even for a grand cru. Still rather linear, rather than growing the mouth it’s a slow diminuendo. Very lovely now and no rush to consume.
1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos St.Denis   try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is higher-toned than the Clos de la Roche, more floral with violets and perhaps peony. In terms of texture this is also very like the Clos de la Roche, though the real differentiator is the fruit, it is even more linear – this wine would certainly benefit from another 3-5 years in the cellar – but it drank very well!
1996 Guy Castagnier, Clos de Vougeot   try to find this wine...
Medium, medium-plus ruby-red. The nose is wild and interesting; savoury and fecund maybe even a licorice edge, yet there is tight core of red fruit too that will need more time to fully blossom. This wine shows the most tannin of the 4 Castagniers, faintly drying but leaving a fine, soft coating on your teeth. Really intense, the concentration does a great job of balancing the acidity. The palate is quite backward though perhaps not so much as the Bonnes-Mares. A super nose, the palate just needs another 3-5 years to catch up. Will be super.
1995 Dujac, Clos de la Roche  try to find this wine...
(From Magnum) Medium, medium-plus ruby-red, and a little brighter than the 75cl bottle that I last opened. The nose takes time to get into it’s stride; starting with faint smoke and a slightly estery width, but there is an ever-sweetening and intensifying core of red fruit that eventually becomes more floral – though it’s a heavy rather than refined scent – impressive and moreish all the same. The slowly intensifying fruit on the nose is mirrored by the taste, always building in the mouth, just a transient petillance too. Good acidity and dry but not blocky tannin and long with a dark-fruit aspect to the finish. The stems don’t seem to engender the fresh purity of some wines, but the complexity is there for all to see. Very impressive.
1966 Leroy SA, Corton  try to find this wine...
Medium colour, only a little amber at the rim – belies its 40 years – there’s a healthy dose of ‘solids’ in the bottom of my glass so not totally bright. The nose starts wide and quickly gets deeper and deeper, very interesting and not a little ‘glossy’ in aspect. The nose goes much deeper than the Vosne if considerably less spicy and smokey. The first impression is sweetness, just a little bite to the tannin and freshness – squeaky clean in fact. This wine is long, seriously long. I must say it’s hard to pick specifics (it’s always the same with old reds), this is an incredibly impressive wine that went perfectly with the ravioli dish. A timeless wine that given age, quality and provenance, shows good value, though surprisingly I didn’t get the ‘wow’ factor.
1966 Leroy SA, Chapelle-Chambertin  try to find this wine...
Medium colour, like the 66 Corton only a little amber at the rim and also like the Corton, not totally bright. The nose is really wide and interesting, lots of high-toned aspects – perhaps a little lifted – over a base of Gevrey earth. Really perfect, wonderful satin texture. The balance is exceptional, you have to search out the components as they meld together so brilliantly well – nothing sticks out – apart (of-course) for the explosion on the mid palate – this is a dynamite wine – and the super length. This provided the ‘wow’ factor, and did so after following the Latricières! Value is personal, but I see it in spades here.
2003 Leroy, Latricières-Chambertin  try to find this wine...
Deep colour. The nose shows more than a passing resemblance to the Combottes but is more tightly wound – it does take on a more musky and heavy impression with time but never opens out to the level of that wine. Über-concentration, achingly intense in the mid-palate and super-long. Behind is (almost) hidden tannin with just an edge of grain. This is Combottes’ bigger brother, seems less mineral and focused but then that could the masking effect of the extra concentration. Leave the glass still for a while and it fills with toasty oak aromas. Very expensive, but very impressive too.
2001 Virginie Pillet, Corton  try to find this wine...
Medium ruby-red. The nose is high-toned, sweet, powdery red fruit is the main impression. Like many 2001’s this is quite elegant, it has nice acidity and only faint tannin. What’s missing is definitely some ‘Corton oomph’. A nice wine but not really of grand cru standard.
1999 Thomas-Moillard, Romanée Saint-Vivant   try to find this wine...
Medium-plus ruby red. The nose is about primary black-edged fruit and a strong spicy/cedar and mineral component – eventually you can get at a tight core of red currant/berry fruit plus a little cooked meat. The palate is still quite linear with a concentrated but mineral showing and plenty of slightly grainy but ripe tannin. Good acidity, the finish doesn’t seem amazingly long, but this is a very primary showing – good if rather brawny stuff – no need to recheck for another 5 years.
1991 Thomas-Moillard, Romanée Saint-Vivant   try to find this wine...
Given the primary showing of the 1999 I though it would be good to compare it to this more mature bottle – wrong. Same colour, same nose, same flavours, same apparent level of maturity. Hmm – I think it will be a long wait for those 1999’s! Actually the nose is a little more fruit driven and the texture is silkier – but not such a difference for 8 more years in the cellar.
2004 Tollot-Beaut, Corton Bressandes  try to find this wine...
The nose is both wide and deep, powdery red fruit, but very primary. Big and bold of flavour, but the tannins are quite elegant. There is a really intense concentration on the mid-palate that flows into the finish. Very good wine – and worth a couple of bottles in the cellar.
1991 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne  try to find this wine...
Medium golden. Hints of oxidation – though mild – concentrated, nice texture, more oxidatative notes but acceptable, good acidity and heavily corked…
1997 Bonneau du Martray, Corton-Charlemagne  try to find this wine...
(From Magnum) Medium golden. The nose starts both wider and deeper than the previous Meursault 1er, but less intense, eventually settling into a very mineral expression of better intensity, but neither the finishing depth nor sweet width off the Meursault. The texture is not the smoothest but in the mid-palate there is a real extra dimension vs the Meursault – a clear burst of interesting concentration. Once more there is the suggestion of a little oxidation – though only when first poured. This is a long, very mineral wine – perhaps more than one has a right to expect from 1997. From this format we have a very young wine.
1998 Fontaine-Gagnard, Batard-Montrachet  try to find this wine...
Golden. The nose is savoury with hints of oak, still a little one-dimensional. The palate is wide and well textured though I was expecting a little more fat – one of the winemakers present opines that the yields might have been ‘comfortable’ on this wine. There are very faint oxidative hints that would be entirely appropriate on a 10+ year-old wine, but here we have only 8 years. It’s a nice wine, but given the appellation I had higher expectations. The finish is a little short (vs the Corton-Charlemagne it is paired with) but that is probably the limitation of the vintage.
2004 Camille Giroud, Corton-Charlemagne  try to find this wine...
A dense yet subdued nose, eventually providing a few higher tones. Good texture, showing in a linear yet quite wide way – it doesn’t narrow or widen as it goes into the mid-palate then the finish – and the finish is a very good one – it just keeps driving through. Not the muscle show of the 02 Guyon but anyway an accomplished wine that’s very Charlemagne.
2002 Antonin Guyon, Corton-Charlemagne  try to find this wine...
Drunk directly following Drouhin’s 02 Puligny Clos de la Garenne. This is just a little darker yellow. The nose frankly assaults your senses with wide, brawny notes of flowers, wet wool, creamy vanilla and just a little honey. The palate is likewise, no model of restraint; muscled, rippling acidity wrapped in a slightly buttery fatness but somehow also an edge of minerality that shows on the long finish. It’s a show of muscles here, but it’s a very impressive show.
2003 Le Truffière, Corton-Charlemagne  try to find this wine...
An oversize and overweight ’statement bottle’ with a super-deep punt. Medium yellow. The nose shouts ‘pear-drops’ before becoming a more subtle blend with classic white blossom and higher-toned alcoholic notes. The palate is quite well concentrated and reasonably long, it just needs an extra dab of acidity to carry the ample mid-palate through into the finish. Almost good.

Pages: 1 2

2 responses to “Roundup of Wines Tasted”

  1. Jon

    Your recommednation for 2005 value red burgundy that offers a classic gamey-animal nose at the village level or below? Thanks so much for yur thoughts here.

    Jon
    San Diego, CA

Agree? Disagree? Anything you'd like to add?

Translate »
%d bloggers like this: