Entries from 2022

that was the week that was (tw3…)

By billn on March 18, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

That was the week. A couple of visits in the Côte d’Or and the rest in Beaujolais.

Next week is a week of typing – maybe February’s report on Beaujolais 2020 will be close to publication by the end of the week – fingers crossed! In the meantime, here are a few images from the end of this week:

offer of the day – marc morey 2020

By billn on March 18, 2022 #the market

From my local, Swiss merchant – in the brackets, you will find the prices of the 2019s from last year and — indicates ‘not offered.’

That’s about the smallest increase(s) I’ve seen for this vintage!

Domaine Marc Morey 2020

Saint-Aubin Charmois 1er Cru 2020 75cl 49.00 (48.00)* (Swiss Francs)

Chassagne-Montrachet 2020 75cl 59.00 (59.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru 2020 75cl 78.00 (72.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers 1er Cru 2020 75cl 78.00 (74.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2020 37.5cl 46.00 (47.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2020 75cl 88.00 (88.00)
Chassagne-Montrachet En Virondot 1er Cru 2020 150cl 181.00 (—)
Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets 1er Cru 2020 75cl 94.00 (92.00)

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2020 75cl 139.00 (—)

*Prices delivered, but without the 7.7% Swiss purchase tax…

Out and about in (greater!) Burgundy this week

By billn on March 16, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

Beaujolais cherry blossom...
Cherry blossom in Villefranche(SS) today…

Of-course, the town centre of Villefranche-sur-Saône is a little warmer than the surrounding countryside, but here, the cherry blossom is in full song!

I have a mix of locations – Beaune and the Beaujolais – but only one visit in the (Hautes) Côtes this week – I’m mainly catching up on those domaines that had to cancel, or didn’t fit on my 3-week schedule from February. I have to give an honourable mention to the super 2018 Aligoté from the last vintage chez Alex Gambal – it was so delicious – which reminded me that the purchasers of Alex’s business (JC Boisset) still had some stock of his wines from the last vintages – now they have 5 cases fewer 🙂

And the rest? – well, there’s a new ‘pizzeria’ in Beaune where I can highly recommend ‘mama’s lasagne!’ and then there was the Sahara rain that engulfed everywhere Monday and into Tuesday. Reports are that there will be a sandy reprise at the weekend too when I will be back in Switzerland – but the question remains – to jetwash or not to jetwash – it will probably rain in Switzerland too…

No St.Vincent, no Hospices de Nuits, no Grands Jours for me in the next days – too many people in small spaces…


offer of the day – lambrays 2020

By billn on March 14, 2022 #the market

It looks like this domaine have a lot of investments to recoup!

You can see the prices from my usual Swiss merchant with 2019, 2018, 2017 & 2016 pricing in the brackets!
— indicates not offered.

Domaine Clos des Lambrays:
Clos des Lambrays 2020 75cl 500.00 (445.00, 258.00, 238.00, 225.00) * (Swiss Francs)
Clos des Lambrays 2020 150cl 1,030.00 (910.00 (536.00, 481.00, —)

The price you see is ‘delivered’ but ex 7.7% Swiss purchase tax.

Ah, the relentless, inexorable price-rise!

the almond trees

By billn on March 13, 2022 #travels in burgundy 2022

amandier - volnay clos des santenots

It’s that time of year – yes already!

And this is one of the best shows of blooms – the old tree at the top of Jacques Prieur’s Volnay 1er Clos des Santenots. These pictures from yesterday…

next weekend’s saint-vincent…

By billn on March 12, 2022 #events

Pulignacious-Montrachet, Corpeau-Montrachet and Blagny-Montrachet are slowly bracing themselves for next week’s, long-delayed, Tournante Saint Vincent 2021.

Already the difference between Friday and Saturday was obvious in Puligny with more ‘decorations’ visible.

Today, we lunched at Auberge du Vieux Vigneron in Corpeau and so could extract a few stats from Jean Charles Fagot:

  • There are 35,000 tickets sold – so these people get access to the special cuvées of the St.Vincent, amongst other things. But if the weather is kind, they are hoping for more than 80,000 visitors!
  • To assuage the thirst of these 35k ticket-holders wait 17,000 bottles of the St.Vincent cuvées…
  • And just to make sure that your olfactory senses are fully functional you may, from some distance, note Jean Charles’ two stalls selling snails. He’s anticipating selling 3,000 dozen of them! – I asked how much garlic that would require – and he just laughed…

Enjoy if you are going! – www.saint-vincent-tournante-2021.com

offer of the day – Dugat-Py 2020

By billn on March 08, 2022 #the market

From my usual Swiss merchant with, where offered, the price of their 2019s in brackets, also from the same merchant, last year:

Domaine Dugat-Py 2020
Monthelie Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 89.00* Swiss Francs

Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Avaux Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 119.00
Beaune 1er Cru Les Grèves Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 198.00

Pommard VV la Levrière 75cl 149.00 (139.00)
Pommard Les Vaumuriens Hauts Très Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 168.00

Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 119.00 (99.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Coeur du Roy Vieilles-Vignes 75cl 159.00 (149.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles 75cl 188.00 (149.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Les Corbeaux 1er Cru 75cl 315.00 (265.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux 1er Cru 75cl 355.00 (265.00)
Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle 1er Cru 75cl 355.00 (265.00)

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 545.00 (475.00)
Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 599.00
Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru 75cl 850.00

*As usual, these are delivered prices but without the Swiss purchase tax of 7.7%. And, as the old saying goes, if you need to ask the price…!

weekend wines – week 9 2022

By billn on March 07, 2022 #degustation

week 9 2022

Quite a mix – also my reactions versus my expectations too!

2020 Georges Duboeuf, Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Clos Reyisser
The Duboeuf family actually do own vines here and whilst the label and corks seem to indicate it might have been made at their factory, here is actually a ‘domaine’ wine. And of course from the first year of premier crus.
My first impression is that the nose is a little round from the barrel elevage – and the palate too – there’s no real distinction or interest here. I had a brainwave and thought (largely imperceptible) gas might be making a difference. I shook the bottle 4 or 5 times with my finger in the neck – this did indeed release a lot of gas. The nose wasn’t particularly helped but the palate became a lot more interesting; a sleeker more structured impression, of minerality and much better form. I rather liked it from here forward. Not exceptional but, essentially, correct and tasty – which was a very positive improvement. I know I drank this way too young and expect that it should improve.
Rebuy – Maybe

2016 Laurent Tribut, Chablis
This vintage remains an absolute favourite of mine – The ‘cut’ of 12 or 14 but the extra concentration of fruit meaning less austerity – ignore the naysayers say I! Unfortunately, already my last bottle of this.
Oh yes – we are clearly in for a treat. Clarity of fine, ripe, but very fresh, cool, fruit with just enough seashore to indicate intent. If the nose shows intent then the palate delivers in spades – this can only be from Chablis! Direct, pure, cool-fruit – and,. of course, overtly mineral. Yet here’s such an easily assimilable package that the bottle is drained in double-quick time – a shame – but bravo!!!
Rebuy – Yes

1995 Delas, Hermitage Les Bessards
Even, way back when, these were not cheap wines – I remember buying at auction 6-packs of this and the 1994. I think the ‘greater,’ or at least the easier to drink 1994 has all, sadly departed from my cellar but of the (always needed more time) 1995 there remained 2-3 bottles, so…
An impressive nose of depth and freshness – hyper-complex florals punctuate a broad creosote aroma of railway sleepers. The creosote is still visible but on a lower order in the flavours. A wine of fine acidity and direct style – not particularly tannic but structural. The finish a laser-beam of red and black berried complexity. Still more of an exercise than a fully delicious thing but the finish was gorgeous. Keep patience!
Rebuy – Maybe

1998 Domaine Louis Jadot, Chambertin Clos de Bèze
I bought this wine in ‘pair’ too – 6 of these and 6 of the 1999. Whilst more affordable in 2002/2003, they have never been ‘cheap.’
A compact yet complex nose – there’s a little nice development here – very attractive if not particularly forward. This nose made some promises that palate struggled to make good. There is depth, there is complexity – this is no ordinary wine – but the combination of AOC hierarchy and price (today) were steps too far for this bottle. In isolation, it’s an excellent wine but given any proper context – it was average at best and absolutely underperforms versus the modern pricing. Day two and the nose had a touch of brett though the palate remained consistent.
Rebuy – No

2012 Le Grappin, Beaune 1er Boucherottes
My last bottle, I think.
A rounder, redder fruit nose – far from the complexity of the Jadot but attractively easier. The palate reflects the nose with red fruit and a slight extra sweetness to that fruit. There is complexity here and a wine that’s comfortable to drink. I did prefer it younger but it’s still in a very good place. Clearly a ‘lesser’ wine than the Bèze – except for value – where this scores very well.
Rebuy – Yes

offer of the day – 2020 l’Arlot

By billn on March 04, 2022 #the market

From my inbox – the same merchant as every year:
I offer the comparison with the previous prices (in brackets) of the 2019s, 2018s, 2017s, 2016s, and 2015… and — signifies ‘not offered’

Domaine de l’Arlot 2020

Nuits-Saint-Georges Mont des Oiseaux 1er Cru 75cl — (—, 69.50, 59.00, —, 59.00)* Swiss Francs
Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Hors Ligne’ 75cl — (—, —, 79.00, —, —)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de l’Arlot 1er Cru 2020 75cl 98.00 (89.50, 88.00, 85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2020 75cl 98.00 (89.50, 88.00, 85.00 85.00, 79.00)
Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos Forêts St-Georges 1er Cru 2020 150cl 201.00 (184.00, 181.00, 175.00, 175.00, —)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2020 75cl 148.00 (135.00, 129.00, 119.00, 119.00, 109.00)
Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru 2020 150cl — (—, 263.00, —, —, —)
Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru 2020 75cl 575.00 (498.00, —, —, 486.00, 445.00)

Another year with a more compact offering of the domaine’s wines. The price of these wines has generally, very modestly, crept up – but the increase is more overt for the 2020s.
*Note that an additional 7.7% sales tax is also due, but the delivery cost is included…

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