The nose reminds me of a 2010 with it’s clean-cut aromas, in this case underpinned with a clear mineral aspect. Relatively loose, comfortable flavours that are more 2009 but the flavours become more stony and intense in the mid-palate – still a wine with real potential I think.
Meursault Les Cras
2009 Voillot Joseph Meursault Les Cras
Right from the start the aromas could be mistaken for the 08 Buisson-Charles Cras; there is a little more emphasis to the high-toned aromas, but otherwise remarkable similarity! The texture likewise starts similarly, the flavours too, yet the shape of the wine is quite different. Despite a waxy-smooth complexion this starts with a burst and slowly fades – but wait, there is certainly some CO2 at work in the mid-palate. I think I need to reserve judgement for 30 minutes on that shape! I return and the character of the wine if not completely the shape has changed; the nose has lost some of the higher-toned emphasis (CO2 now gone I suppose!) and in the mouth it is now smooth for its full length – the early upfront burst of flavour is more elegantly captured by the mid-palate. Similar length, but slightly less intensity versus the 2008 – I guess that’s the vintage acidity talking – another lovely wine.
2008 Buisson-Charles Meursault Les Cras
The nose has less depth, but significantly more width and complexity; initially perhaps a higher-toned hint of mint amongst warm, green leaves and a tight core of fruit. Wow, a narrower entry than the Bourgogne, but waxy smooth before opening – w i d e – and growing and growing in the very impressive mid-palate with a super-tasty, slightly creamy agrumes flavour. The finish is about pure mineral and it’s very long. It’s a beauty.
1993 Voillot Joseph Meursault Les Cras
Medium, medium-plus golden. There are few black bits floating in the bottle, but they sink without problem. The nose is a blast of matchstick – I guess a bit more sulfur in those days! – underpinned with a soft spice-bread note. The palate is very 1993, taught, wiry, intense and with very good acidity – add that to the usual minerality of Cras and you have quite a combination. The flavours also seem to have plenty of the matchstick aromas and there is a super extra creamy dimension as you head into a decent, more savoury finish. Not a Meursault to wallow in, this one ‘instructs’.