At first glance and sniff, this looks and smells like a 2003 – blind tasting to that level of accuracy need hold no fears! Medium-plus cherry-red with not a hint of lightening or ruby colour. The nose starts very ripe with plenty of powdery red fruit, but time opens quite a distinct coffee note and eventually a very well defined and intense red cherry/cranberry impression. In the mouth this is concentrated, soft, intense with a good burst of fruit on the mid-palate – it’s a very ‘worthy’ 1er Cru – the finish is quite long and the only part that hints of some oak. The tannins are very well covered. This is a great success for the vintage, and even if you are just a little agnostic about the character of 2003, I think you will find plenty of fun here – and that’s not to say there is no longer-term serious side to this well-priced wine.
Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
2000 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
Medium ruby red. High-toned, fresh and slightly powdery dry nose. Good, mouth-watering acidity, very little overt tannin. The red-shaded fruit is quite nice and has not-bad concentration for a 2000. A little 1996 in style but without the concentration of many from that vintage, good and clean but not really exciting.
1999 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
1998 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
1997 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
Medium ruby red core just fading slightly to amber. Ash-notes overlay sweet, spicy and slightly plummy red fruit. There’s good texture that’s just a little creamy. The acidity is just a little harsh in the finish but the wine’s quite fat and the fruit has concentration and lasts very well though is quite cooked – reminds me more of Carneros than Gevrey…
1995 Varoilles Gevrey-Chambertin La Romanée
Medium ruby red, little fading and despite a little amber at the rim, still looks relatively young. A fresh raspberry and cherry tart nose with a pleasing, slightly estery, tertiary depth. The dominant style of this wine is the acidity, smooth but in the ascendant. The fruit is actually quite tasty with a piercing red fruit aspect. There’s just a trace of dryness on the finish but the tannins are well mannered. Not fully joined up this wine, but it’s clean, very drinkable and unlikely to go downhill soon.