The first whiff is of an oak-based toasty bread, below is a very faint baked citrus note. Very mineral, very lovely width, and even a hint of plush-ness. There is a good mid-palate intensity that intersperses lots of complexity – a faint creamy brûlée lingers in the mouth, and for quite some time. Very good length and complexity, yet, an understated, underdeveloped wine. It is possible to get more enjoyment from a bourgogne today, but with much less to contemplate. The potential for excellent if it avoids too many radicals…

Hint of sulfur. Deep fruit aromas, riper than 2009, Wide with lots of energy in the mouth – the acidity seems perfectly dissolved in the whole. Flavour leaches from your gums, plenty of it mineral – the finish is long and narrowing. Very fine.

A ripe but still quite mineral nose. Full on the palate – clearly there’s no raging torrent of acidity but this is nicely mouth-watering – and not just as an afterthought. There is density and real authority to the mid-palate flavours, would make a great match to many dishhes at table. This has no sharp edges at all – this balance indicates no rush to drink.

Wide and fresh aromatics with just a hint of herbs. There is lovely width, intensity and energy too – quite a silky texture. There is super mid-palate flavour. Yum.