High-tones and a hint of spearmint(!) Full and round again with that characteristic welling-up of intensity. Lithe and energetic – almost electric – wow!
Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
2009 Pernot Paul Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
This needs a little time to open in the glass, getting wider in the process – there’s clearly something a little ‘extra’ here. Here there is a higher mineral expression but the texture is plusher at the same time. Never super-wide, this wine manages to grow and grow in your mouth, finishing on an understated but long note.
2009 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
2006 Remoissenet Père et Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
2006 Carillon Louis Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
A whiff of SO2 defines the first interaction – it’s even still there after about 20 minutes in the glass but on a much lower level. The fading of the sulfur reveals a width of aromas and some very pretty higher tones and eventually a little caramel. For the vintage there’s very decent acidity and a really beautiful width of creamy, dreamy ripe fruit – it seems to go on and on. No fireworks – if anything it’s a little tight – but it’s a very, very competent demonstration of a grand cru.
2006 Remoissenet Père et Fils Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
2006 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
2002 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Medium yellow colour. The nose has depth combined with a high-toned top note. Lovely texture, waxy without becoming cloying. Long, still oak tinged at the end. The mid-palate shows a high-toned profile, somewhat mineral rather than fat. Very balanced and accomplished, but missing a hint of excitement.
1995 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet
Versus the Bâtard the colour is a little deeper – more golden too. The nose is higher toned and a little less burly, riper though still with plenty of oak. Despite this wine being decanted an hour earlier it’s another hour in the glass before the nose reaches its peak. Overall this is a fantastic wine that just doesn’t quite show the precision of the Bâtard but anyway very fine.