The nose has less depth, but significantly more width and complexity; initially perhaps a higher-toned hint of mint amongst warm, green leaves and a tight core of fruit. Wow, a narrower entry than the Bourgogne, but waxy smooth before opening – w i d e – and growing and growing in the very impressive mid-palate with a super-tasty, slightly creamy agrumes flavour. The finish is about pure mineral and it’s very long. It’s a beauty.

Aromatically intense, the family nose is present here though fading to core of pure fruit. Vinous – initially a hint fat the wine opens wide on its acidity. A very different expression to the Charmes but lovely…