Medium colour. The nose has some herbal elements above an understated but quite complex mix of fruit; cherry, strawberry and eventually a long redcurrant note. There is a hint of spice too, though I’m not sure if it’s from the soil or the barrel. I find a herbal element on the palate too – not quite green, but hinting at green. The texture is reasonably smooth, and seems to have an element of weight – tannin is there as a faint rasp on the end of your tongue. Decent length in a red register. I expect this had a bit better balance 18 months ago; today it’s far from seemless, the acidity just seems to be approaching ‘sharp’ if not quite there yet, though sweet and sour with emphasis on the sour could certainly be used. Day three: (only stoppered and left at about 17°C) and this wine is suddenly delicious; all herbal references have faded to relative insignificance and the fruit has a beguiling, understated sweetness – how did that happen? I don’t know, but I’d buy it again now!
Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
2007 Ardhuy Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
About one third whole clusters used for this wine. Medium, medium-plus colour. The aromas are less intense than the Beaune, but they are more round and much more complex, slowly they take on more focus and a redder colour. In the mouth this is complex and exciting with an intense spine. The finish shows a little oak, but it’s a long finish.
2007 Potel Nicolas Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes
Not often you are served a Chaumes after a Malconsorts, but here the fruit aromas are darker and edged with caramel. IN the mouth it is softer and a hint sweeter than the Malconsorts – I initially thought it was shown out of sequence, but there’s an impressively intense concentration of fruit in the mid-palate. Again some faint astringency to the tannin – this is a super Chaumes.