One year David Croix had an order for Bourgogne, only to realise he didn’t have enough wine to fill the order. As an option for the New York merchant he suggested that he could assemble the racked lees from all his reds, give it time to settle as best as possible and see if it was any good. It turned out not bad despite having a slight turbidity as he chose not to filter. The New York merchant has since had exclusivity on this unusual wine – unusual in that it is a compendium of so many wines, including grand crus. When I visited, there was a ‘spare’ half bottle we could taste: A decent medium colour, if not diamond bright. Aromatic depth with relatively high-toned fruit and a hint of orange. The texture is slightly lush, plenty of concentration for the label and acidity that is balancing, if not bracing though needs to smooth out a little in the finish – a hint of CO₂ compounds the sensation as does the fact it’s only been in bottle for 3 weeks as gravity has to work for a long time on the fine lees. If it smooths a little, this will be a very pretty bottle.