The aromas start in a surprisingly floral/perfumed vein, slowly becoming more sedate with a faintly ripe yellow fruit and there are still hints of the almonds of it’s youth. Dense and ripe flavours that finish with a little agrumes. There’s plenty of fat and just enough acidity to balance. Certainly a very rich performance but very drinkable after a little aeration. I normally have in mind feminine adjectives with white wines, but there’s a builder’s muscle in here.

A young, relatively pale lemon-yellow. Slow to open, but eventually quite round aromas that are perhaps a little alcoholic at the top-end, with ripe fruit and a hint of almond. The impression in the mouth is of a wine that’s become rather four-square, dense, and not all that giving. It’s clearly fresh enough and has a good core of concentration. The length is still decent in a savoury way. I don’t normally hold with whites closing down, but this is certainly quite dumbed-down versus its release.

Medium-pale lemon yellow. The nose needs a little while to widen, perhaps a little white blossom. The palate is intense and soft, sweetly ripe. The acidity seems quite understated – but there’s much more density to this wine than in most vintages, it even has some focus. For the price, very impressive.